# Mark III Issue



## Bishop746 (Apr 4, 2008)

I finally bought a stainless Mark III after many years of wanting one and my stepson and I had a great time at the range shooting it. Im going to put V-notch sights on it because my eyes aren't what they used to be and the range I go too seems to be trying to save the enviorment by having no lights on in the range.

When I got home and tried to clean it I ran into a problem though. Not only did I loose an entire saturday trying to put this weapon back together but I lost the Firing Pin Stop(partA03500) in the process. I always disassemble a firearm over a plastic pan but the bolt surprised me when it came loose and I might have lost it then. I have tore my garage apart looking for this pin but no luck so Im going to get one from Ruger. 

Is this a common issue?


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## Mike Barham (Mar 30, 2006)

I don't know about the firing pin stop, but I do know this design is infamously difficult to reassemble until you "get the hang of it." It's probably the biggest complaint you see about the Ruger Mark II/III pistols, and actually one reason I bought a Browning Buckmark instead of the Ruger.


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## Bishop746 (Apr 4, 2008)

I've never seen a pistol that you have to "point" in so many different directions to get it back together.

Ruger called me back and I got some interesting info that I want to pass along. The Firing Pin Stop is not longer a pin per se but a hollow open pin that does not come out. I was basing my info on a video posted on the Ruger website (and my manual)that showed a solid pin in the bolt, I was informed today that the video is out of date.


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## GTD (Dec 19, 2007)

I have a ruger markIII hunter, it took me a few times disassembling and reassembling to get use to it. I could see why some may chose buckmark for that reason. Be patent, if it’s new like mine was, after a few times disassembling, parts seem to loosen up just enough to make cleaning somewhat enjoyable. I don’t disassemble every time I shoot it. Spray it down with some gun scrubber, run a bore snake threw it and I’m good for a few trips to the range.


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## skoro (Apr 16, 2008)

Mike Barham said:


> I don't know about the firing pin stop, but I do know this design is infamously difficult to reassemble until you "get the hang of it." It's probably the biggest complaint you see about the Ruger Mark II/III pistols, and actually one reason I bought a Browning Buckmark instead of the Ruger.


The little Ruger is a pain to reassemble, but it's a great shooting pistol.


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## neophyte (Aug 13, 2007)

*Bullseye*

If you want to; go to GunTalkonline: The folks there and especially the "Bullseye" know the Ruger MK's. He has put together pictures, video and good simple explanations.
I believe he may cruise through here.

Follow up with this new firing pin. and Thanks


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## revolvers&w (Sep 28, 2008)

Try the NC Star red dot to aid hose eyes


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## Teuthis (Apr 9, 2008)

It is far best to read and memorize the drill for field stripping and reassembling the Ruger Mark II or III. Then the process becomes simple. The key is to be thorough in your learning and then practice it. Do not wait and field strip it only when you shoot it, and have then forgotten the process. Learn it up front, military style, and then you will always know it and you can probably do it in the dark. haha


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## billt (Aug 19, 2007)

I don't understand why people feel the need to disassemble the Ruger Mark II's and III's for cleaning? I have 2 Ruger Mark II's and both have digested thousands of rounds and neither have ever been apart, and both are cleaner than the day I brought both of them home and removed them from the box. I take a metal 2 pound coffee can and fill it about halfway up with clean Kerosene or WD-40. You can buy either one at Home Depot or Lowe's in gallon size cans very reasonably. I take one of those cheap Chinese, fake horsehair paint brushes and cut the bristles about halfway off with a pair of scissors which makes them stiffer. Remove the magazine and put it right in the can and let it soak. Then using the brush liberally brush the bolt, chamber area, magazine well, everywhere. If you want you can remove the grip panels, although the WD-40 or Kerosene won't hurt them. After brushing all of the gun I then blow everything dry with compressed air. If you don't have an air compressor, you can wipe as much as you can off with a clean terrycloth towel, then use that "canned air" for computers and cameras. Everything will be clean and dry, inside and out. I then lubricate everything, wipe the gun down with an oily rag, and I'm done. Usually in about 10 minutes tops. I clean slides and frames of auto pistols the same way as well. Also, bolts on bolt action rifles will come clean right down to the bare metal without any disassembly required. Taking guns apart that don't need to be is always met with resistance in the reassembly process. The Colt Woodsman is another .22 automatic that is a pain in the a$$ to reassemble. It can be cleaned in the same exact manner without any grief, and in a timely fashion. If you want to get fancy, you can buy one of those small, electric parts washers from Harbor Freight for around $30.00, keep the WD-40, (smells better), or Kerosene in it out in the garage. Then it's ready to go when you are. Bill T.


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## tschmittel (Jun 26, 2007)

Like everybody says after a few times you'll get the hang of it.
This really helped me: http://www.guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm


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## mtlmgc (May 3, 2008)

My first MKII was a used blued bull barrel (traded it in on the SS comp series I have now), I waited for the manual from Ruger before I disassembled it and during that time I must have run close to 2,000 rounds through it before it got a thorough cleaning, all I would do between range sessions is clean the bore, remove excess fouling, and wipe it down. No jams, FTF's or FTE, I guess that's why I got the SS one so I could neglect it even more. It's a bit finicky with ammo though.


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## BeefyBeefo (Jan 30, 2008)

mtlmgc said:


> My first MKII was a used blued bull barrel (traded it in on the SS comp series I have now), I waited for the manual from Ruger before I disassembled it and during that time I must have run close to 2,000 rounds through it before it got a thorough cleaning, all I would do between range sessions is clean the bore, remove excess fouling, and wipe it down. No jams, FTF's or FTE, I guess that's why I got the SS one so I could neglect it even more. It's a bit finicky with ammo though.


That's how mine has been - minus being finicky with ammo. I have a few thousand of the cheap federal bulk pack rounds from WM through my used MKII (which was dirty when I bought it) and I haven't had any problems at all. I haven't field stripped it yet. All I do after the session is spray the gun down (inside and out) with G96 (similar to CLP) and wipe it down. It's been a great gun! :smt023

-Jeff-


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## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

My new MKIII Hunter had a loose front sight problem. I used blue Loc-Tite on it and will try it our next week at the range.

I did take a huge Kaibab squirrel with it last week, though. Yeah!!


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## DevilsJohnson (Oct 21, 2007)

I don't take my MK III apart. I will soak it in alcohol for a while then use a brush and barrel brush and scrub it out. It's worked out so far.


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## jspellacy (Nov 20, 2008)

Drill Sergeant said:


> My new MKIII Hunter had a loose front sight problem. I used blue Loc-Tite on it and will try it our next week at the range.
> 
> I did take a huge Kaibab squirrel with it last week, though. Yeah!!


I also have an issue with the front sight of my MKIII Hunter.

Did the Loc-Tite thing also...but....used RED and it still comes loose. Heat I guess broke down the red.

I don't shoot it anymore without having a screwdriver handy.


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## 0mattellis0 (Nov 2, 2008)

Yes. I have a Mark 22/45. It took me 2 hours to re-assemble. Then I put took it apart again, and reassembled it. Only took me 15 minutes the 2nd time. I agree that you have to 'get-used-to-it'. I still like it and it's fun to shoot.


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## JeffWard (Aug 24, 2007)

I haven't taken my Buckmark apart in about 3000 rounds...

It's a pain, since I have the red-dot scope on it on a rail from Tactical Solutions that spans the whole assembly, and removing it means re-zeroing and tweeking...

I clean everything I can reach with a toothbrush, and CLP, and bore-snake it AWAY from the chamber, by pushing an empty rod down the barrel, slipping a cloth through inside the chamber, and pulling it out forward... A bit tricky, but effective. Not bad since the "chamber" passes straight through.

I've also gone to sprininging for slightly pricier CCI ammo, but it's cleaner...

JeffWard


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## Pistolero (Mar 6, 2009)

*Firing Pin Stop...*

I've become very skilled at takedown and reassembly of my Ruger MKIII Gov't/Comp pistol. I can't for the life of me understand why the rolled pin used for the the firing pin stop would fall out. Of the four times I purposely "knocked" it out for deep cleaning, it never seemed remotely lose enough to fall free from the bolt. I cannot say for sure but it sounds like the roll pin may have been defective and, somehow, split? Is the firearm used? It may have been mishandled by its previous owner.

As for all this cleaning advice, don't limit yourself to cleaning the gun only from open surfaces while assembled. Rimfires get terribly dirty and even less reliable when so neglected. The tight spaces of the MKIII are difficult to get fully clean disassembled let alone fully assembled. Learn the drill, find your groove and watch the frustration disappear and be replaced by a wonderful feeling of accomplishment. Your gun will thank you with a long, productive life.

Excellent choice in firearms, BTW.


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## Too Slow '90 (Jan 4, 2009)

I took my MK III apart last night mainly because of all of the posts talking about how difficult it is. The descriptions and instruction in the manual leave alot to be desired but I managed to pull it off. Take down, cleaning and re-assembly took a little over an hour. Easily four times as long as anything else I own. I am sure the next time will be easier.:smt023


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## gilream (May 5, 2009)

I just bought a Mark III Hunter. Fired it for the first time yesterday testing different ammo. I too found the front sight screw to be loose when I got home. Don't know if it came out of the box that way or if it loosed up on the range. What kind of locktite works best for this ailment?


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## gilream (May 5, 2009)

Firing Pin Stop...The firing pin stop in my Mark III sure does apprear to be a solid pin in my bolt. If you don't fool with it I don't see how it could come loose.


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## pikepaul (Apr 30, 2009)

says a lot for the company


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## DevilsJohnson (Oct 21, 2007)

pikepaul said:


> says a lot for the company


:?::smt017


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## tekhead1219 (May 16, 2008)

pikepaul said:


> says a lot for the company


Huh:?:


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## DevilsJohnson (Oct 21, 2007)

I'm with ya..I'm still trying to figure or:smt017 if he hates the or loves them


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## MITCH (Apr 9, 2009)

tumbleweed


Drill Sergeant said:


> My new MKIII Hunter had a loose front sight problem. I used blue Loc-Tite on it and will try it our next week at the range.
> 
> I did take a huge Kaibab squirrel with it last week, though. Yeah!!


Sarge: Did the Blue Loc-Tite work on your front sight ?
I have a new MarkIII Hunter and after only 100 rounds the front sight was loose.
Mitch


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## Bishop746 (Apr 4, 2008)

*Review of Fiber Optic Front sights*

Instead of starting a new thread I thougth I would just add to this one since I started it anyway and its apart of my intellectual property. At least thats what my lawyers tell me.

My Mark III came with a bull barrel with notch and post sights. Due to self abuse as a teenage my eyesight is poorly these days and I couldnt see the sights. I went to Rugers website and ordered fiber optic front sights and a V rear sight blade. Attaching the front sight and inserting different light pipes is easy and it comes with a nifty and stylish container for the extra light pipes. I went with green.

Attaching the V rear sight blade was a bit more problematic. Getting the old blade off was difficult and Im still not sure how I did it but after much blasphamy it came free. After more blasphamy and shooting the microscopic tension spring across the room four times I finally got it all back together.

I took it to my local range where the surly rangemaster was kind enough to accept money from me to use his range facilities. With a sneer he pointed me towards lane two where I set up to sight my pistol in. First I watched the amazing scene as a young man tried to introduce his obviously terrified girlfriend to the world of shooting. Despite the fact that my stepsons Walther p22 almost had her in hysterics the young man pressed on with her first lesson with a compact .45. Without firing a shot, she slammed the gun down, said something unkind to her soon to be ex-boyfriend and stormed out of the range. The shooting world loses another potential member.

The front fiber optic sits much higher then the stock sight. My first 5 shots were very high. I had to turn the rear elevation screw until it grounded out to bring the point of impact down. However, most importantly the front sight is really visible out there and it settles into that V-notch easily. I shoot much more consistantly now and I would highly recommend these to anyone tired of trying to get that blurry front post to square off against those even blurrier notchs. Equal light on each side! Yeah right!!


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## MITCH (Apr 9, 2009)

Bishop: I assume that like my Mark III w/ bull barrel, yours has a sight ramp on top of the barrel. If so, you may wish to go to the next step and check out the BSA Optic sights. They attach and detatch in about 30 seconds, provide four different sight pictures and 7 adjustments for brightness. Not a laser, but a big help for eyes that are not what they were 50 years ago. New in the box I paid $95.00.
Mitch


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## Bishop746 (Apr 4, 2008)

Thank you Mitch. I had considered optic sights like that but I enjoy shooting iron sights so the ability to detach the optic would be a big plus. Good price too. Thanks.


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## Mr.clean (Jul 30, 2009)

PITA,recently just took mine apart to field strip it.Its hard.


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## MITCH (Apr 9, 2009)

*Mark iii takedown*



Mr.clean said:


> PITA,recently just took mine apart to field strip it.Its hard.


Finally got around to field stripping my Mark III Hunter yesterday. What helped with the dis-assembly and assembly was this:
I photo copied the pages from the Ruger manual then stood them up on the workbench and folowed each step while the pages were in front of me. Not only does it remind you what comes next, so you don't have to remember what you read, but it keeps the gun oil off the original pages.
After hearing all the remarks about how difficult it was to field strip, I put off breaking it down until yesterday and found that with the directions in front of me it wasn't that hard to do.


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## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

MITCH said:


> tumbleweed
> 
> Sarge: Did the Blue Loc-Tite work on your front sight ?
> I have a new MarkIII Hunter and after only 100 rounds the front sight was loose.
> Mitch


Sorry for the late reply. I did not properly mark the box for instant notification. Yes, the Loc-Tite worked fine. I have put many, many rounds through since the application without a hitch. Once you get used to those sights, accuracy improves greatly.


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