# 1911 Features?



## Spazz (May 3, 2009)

I am planning on getting a 1911, and I've been looking over some different models. I'm not sure I understand the need for some of the features on the guns. 

What are the front cocking serrations for? 
Why are some triggers skeletonized and others not?
Why are some hammers rounded and skeletonized?
What is the function of the beavertail grip?
Beveled magazine well?

More or less, I'm looking at a Springfield Mil-Spec vs a Loaded version. I plan on using it for a CCW and I like the idea of a 5 inch barrel. Furthermore weight isn't an issue. I just want to know if all the extras are worth the money. Then again it may double as a home defense weapon so I might need to have a light rail and end up having to buy an Operator series pistol anyway, making my questions semi-superfluous.

Which brings me to my next question...would a 1911 be a better home defense weapon than my AR-15?


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## AC_USMC 03 (Apr 5, 2009)

best defense says a shot gun with bird shot is the best home defense. Because of the lack of penetraition threw walls. so you dont spray family


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Spazz said:


> I am planning on getting a 1911, and I've been looking over some different models. I'm not sure I understand the need for some of the features on the guns.
> 
> What are the front cocking serrations for?


If the pistol has a full-length guide rod inside its recoil spring, you can't do a "press check" to assure whether it's loaded or not. A "press check" involves carefully pressing the front of the slide, _below the barrel_, with the weak-side index finger, rearward enough to just partly expose the (possible) cartridge in the pistol's chamber.
The forward serrations give you a grasping place, to accomplish the same thing by pinching the slide between weak-side index finger and thumb, and pulling it back. Also, they're there because some people think they look "cool."



Spazz said:


> Why are some triggers skeletonized and others not?


There is no functional reason for this. The weight of the trigger itself has very little effect upon the operation of the pistol. But some people think that a perforated trigger looks "cool."



Spazz said:


> Why are some hammers rounded and skeletonized?


A rounded-spur hammer is less likely to jam its way into the web of your hand, the way the sharper end of the earlier-version, long-spur hammer might.
The hole is to make the hammer lighter, according to the theory that a lighter hammer provides a faster "lock time." I personally think that this, too, is a matter of "cool" appearance, and that it has little to do with the hammer's function.



Spazz said:


> What is the function of the beavertail grip?


The beavertail, part of the pistol's grip safety, positions your hand more certainly and securely and, more important, decisively keeps the hammer spur (round or sharp) away from your hand. This is a good thing.



Spazz said:


> Beveled magazine well?


The bevel filed into the edges of the pistol's magazine well makes a sort of subtle "funnel" that aids you in making quick, sure magazine replacements. This small amount of filed-in relief is enough to do the job. Any add-on accessory "mag-well funnel" is, in my mind, both unnecessary and awkward in appearance.


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## tony pasley (May 6, 2006)

I like a plain jane for carry purposes. The more bells and whistles the more to go wrong, but that is me.


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## DevilsJohnson (Oct 21, 2007)

The loaded 1911 that Springfield has compared to their Mil Spec has more to do with target shooters. The loaded can have better sights, the ambi safety I can't see making any real difference unless you're left handed that is.The beaver tail helps to put the weapon in the right place in your hand making shooting a little more accurate for some. As stated the beveled mag well allows for ease of loading a fresh mag into the weapon.
The design of the trigger is really only a personal preference. I see no difference in a solid or cut up one. There's not enough metal there to make any real difference. Those front serrates are great for clearing a weapon if it was to not eject or whatever. if you for some reason slip and the slide heads back to home position you don't get the rear sight biting your hand as you might while holding it from the rear.

Where the loaded 1911 starts to be different is in the fit. The slides will be better fit to frames as are the barrel and bushing. tighter fit weapon will shoot tighter groups being there is less room to wiggle away from true.They usually will have a smoother trigger action and lighter pull. So of you have a weapon with a lighter, more smooth trigger, a slide fit to the frame, the barrel that does not wiggle as much or at all when in battery and the bushing fit to the slide and the barrel allowing for next to no movement except for what is supposed to happen when fired you get a weapon that will shoot tighter groups over longer distances. As long as you're doing your part that is. Most all loaded 1911's have the full length guide rods too. There are many people with many reasons to have or not have this. I have 1911's with both and I really can't see any real difference. You might be able to get a little more out of your recoil spring with the full length rod but I use heavier springs in all my 1911's and don't see any difference in how either perform. A good 18-20# spring does wonders for a weapon to me while the rod seems to do little or anything.

Me personally like to get a Mil Spec and do a few things to it myself. can get the weapon how I want it rather than someone else s idea of what's needed to make it perform well. The plus to the loaded frame over that is the top of the slide has been ground to allow for different types of rear sights and many times both front and rear are dove tailed making sight replacement a little easier. You also have more options. With the Mil-Spec the rear needs to be ground flat to get most of the higher end rear sights installed. The sights on a mil spec don't give me any troubles really. Not enough to get me to want to get it fit with some other type of sights.

With the loaded weapons one is less likely to have to or want to do any extra work to them other than a cool set of grips maybe. But for me I like making my 1911's unique to me so either one I end up with I'll be taking it apart and replacing things anyway:smt082 It's better for me to save the money nad get one not loaded. But if you want all the bells and whistles and do not want to go through the tropuble of doing it yourself then a loaded 1911 is right down your alley.


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## Spazz (May 3, 2009)

thanks for the input guys. now to make a final decision on make and model. as for the comment about shotgun loaded with birdshot. I live alone and thus don't have family to spray. I also know of a guy who attempted suicide with a 12 gauge loaded with birdshot and all it did was rearrange his face...so i don't have a whole lot of confidence in it as a defensive load out.


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## DevilsJohnson (Oct 21, 2007)

Springfield makes a good 1911, Smith & Wesson has a good one. The Para GI Expert is a Mil Spec from them but they make a few really great guns. Of course Colt, they have made them forever and make the original. Rock Island are pretty good. 

If it was me I'd look at the Springfield models. They make a really nice weapon. From their Mil-Spec up. I have yet to see anyone that was not happy with a Springer pistol. My two favorite 1911's are Springfield's. I have A Mil-Spec that I rebuilt and a (really) loaded 9mm.:smt023


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## Todd (Jul 3, 2006)

Spazz said:


> Which brings me to my next question...would a 1911 be a better home defense weapon than my AR-15?


Yes. More maneuverable. You're able to work your gun and a phone to call the police at the same time. You're less likely to be hitting the house next door if you miss. And some over-zealous ambulance chaser isn't going to be holding your "assault rifle" up to the jury during your civil trial. Speaking as a person that owns an AR, I don't even consider it for defense, but rely on my 9mm instead.


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## Spazz (May 3, 2009)

All very helpful information guys, especially about the mil-spec vs loaded and the bit about the AR being used against me in court.

I definitely want a Springfield and it won't be a target gun, strictly made for defense, doesn't have to be pretty, just want it to do it's job. 

How expensive would it be to get the replacement hammer, and beavertail gripsafety installed?

Also, how much performance do you actually lose with the different barrel sizes? Exactly how does sight radius work? I hear the term come up a lot and I don't fully understand it.


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Springfield's site (for 1911s): http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?clicktype=1911

Take a look: They make several with the accessories you want already installed.
Although the round-spur hammer is a pretty simple replacement, adding a beavertail grip-safety is an expensive job that's too difficult for an amateur to do. Therefore, I suggest buying a gun with that part already installed. It would be cheaper, I believe, than buying a plain-jane gun and paying a gunsmith to add the beavertail part.
Putting an internal bevel into the magazine well is pretty simple, although it has to be done quite carefully. Use a file, not a Dremel. Go slowly.
The only problem with changing the hammer is that you'll be screwing up its relationship with the gun's sear, to the detriment of your pistol's trigger pull. Maybe it's better to buy a pistol with the proper hammer already installed. (Truth: I'd prefer to pay a decent gunsmith to do a good trigger job on it anyway, but I like pretty light triggers on my 1911s.)


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## Spazz (May 3, 2009)

So I did some calling around and the only place with a springfield 1911 has a new in the box GI version for 579. Is this a good price? How reliable are the GIs? What's this i hear about slide bite and hammer bite/hammer lash? Is this a common issue with this style of 1911?


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## tony pasley (May 6, 2006)

The 1911 bite is when you aren't holding it properly. You grip to high and either the hammer or slide pinches the web of your hand. The other very common mishap is getting your thumb bite by the slide by not having it clear below the slide.


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