# New CZ 75 P-01



## yellowroses

My new P-01 arrived at my firearms dealer this week. I have been trying to rack the slide and work every stiff and recalcitrant part since I got it. The gun dealer says it is a matter of time and use to break it in and have it run smoothly. I don't doubt him, but it is very difficult to work it right now. When I tried racking, decocking, and dry firing a P-01 in another shop, it all worked so easily that I knew right away it was the pistol for me. What I am asking is should I lubricate it with Frog Lube before taking it to the range next week or do I have to shoot a couple of boxes of ammunition through it first? My other guns did not give me these problems so I never had to be concerned about the break in period. They were a little stiff- not rigid the way this pistol is.
Thank you for your advice in advance.
Kate

T.A.N.S.T.A.AF.L.


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## SamBond

Any new gun should be cleaned and lubed Before Firing.



Sam


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## desertman

yellowroses said:


> My new P-01 arrived at my firearms dealer this week. I have been trying to rack the slide and work every stiff and recalcitrant part since I got it. The gun dealer says it is a matter of time and use to break it in and have it run smoothly. I don't doubt him, but it is very difficult to work it right now. When I tried racking, decocking, and dry firing a P-01 in another shop, it all worked so easily that I knew right away it was the pistol for me. What I am asking is should I lubricate it with Frog Lube before taking it to the range next week or do I have to shoot a couple of boxes of ammunition through it first? My other guns did not give me these problems so I never had to be concerned about the break in period. They were a little stiff- not rigid the way this pistol is.
> Thank you for your advice in advance.
> Kate
> 
> T.A.N.S.T.A.AF.L.


I have four CZ's including a P01.

One of the drawbacks of the CZ's design (at least to some) is that the slide rides inside the frame rails. Because of this there is less surface to hold on to while grasping and racking the slide. Some have argued that CZ's are more accurate because of this design as there is less play in the slide to frame fit. Whether that's true or not is open for discussion? Although CZ's are excellent guns. The machining of parts is somewhat rough and may require a "break in". Depending on your mechanical aptitude and how skilled you are with your hands. You can always polish the slide and frame rails along with the guide rod if the guide rod is steel* using 400 to 600 to 1500 grit "wet or dry" sandpaper wrapped tightly around a small 6 inch flat steel ruler. The object is to polish the rails, not round them off or to remove metal. Using those grits of "wet or dry" it is highly unlikely that you'll remove metal. In a sense what you'll be doing is breaking it in by hand without the expenditure of 500 rounds or more of ammunition. Which it may require.

Look for where the wear (shiny) spots are on the slide and frame rails and concentrate your efforts there. That's where the tight spots are. You may also want to polish where the hammer comes into contact with the underside of the slide as the slide is being retracted. Obviously you'll have to thoroughly clean and lubricate the gun when you're finished. More than likely the one you tried at the shop had already been "broken in".

*I replaced the polymer guide rods with stainless steel.


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## yellowroses

Thank you for the advice, Desertman. I lubricated the pistol as SamBond suggested and it helped a bit. At first the slide, decocker, mag release, and even the hammer were so stiff I wondered if they worked at all. Now at least they are moving. I like your polishing idea. I do metalwork to make copper and silver bracelets as a hobby so I have the tools to do the job. I can do as you suggested and polish the areas that rub against each other. What a great idea! 

I planned to ask my FFL, who is also a gunsmith, about replacing that cheap plastic guide rod with steel.

I ordered a CZ SP-01 Tactical 9mm from Deguns this afternoon. I've had trouble locating one and last night they had seven. When I ordered this afternoon they had only four. Now they have three. I will clean it up and polish it just like the P-01. What a solution! Thank you.
Kate

T.A.N.S.T.A.AF.L


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## desertman

yellowroses said:


> Thank you for the advice, Desertman. I lubricated the pistol as SamBond suggested and it helped a bit. At first the slide, decocker, mag release, and even the hammer were so stiff I wondered if they worked at all. Now at least they are moving. I like your polishing idea. I do metalwork to make copper and silver bracelets as a hobby so I have the tools to do the job. I can do as you suggested and polish the areas that rub against each other. What a great idea!
> 
> I planned to ask my FFL, who is also a gunsmith, about replacing that cheap plastic guide rod with steel.
> 
> I ordered a CZ SP-01 Tactical 9mm from Deguns this afternoon. I've had trouble locating one and last night they had seven. When I ordered this afternoon they had only four. Now they have three. I will clean it up and polish it just like the P-01. What a solution! Thank you.
> Kate
> 
> T.A.N.S.T.A.AF.L


You're welcome!

Yeah, I can't stand those plastic guide rods. You can get stainless steel replacements from CZ Custom here in Arizona or from Cajun Gun Works. In addition to custom work, they also have a lot of parts and accessories for CZ pistols. Polishing the rails and contact points is not that difficult a job. I also polish the feed ramp, anything that reduces friction will help the gun function and perform better. I've done a lot of work on my own guns.

I'll even go as far as taking the entire gun apart, examining the moving parts, in particular pivot points for burrs and rough areas which can also be polished out. You can also polish the barrel hood and inside the slide where it rides. There's usually a lot of machining/tool marks in those areas too. Just cycle the slide a few times and you'll notice those deep scratches on top of the barrel hood. That's all unwanted friction my friend. Another area is inside the mainspring housing channel in which the hammer mainspring rides.

You may even want to purchase a complete takedown manual and watch "You Tube" video's on firearms dis-assembly/re-assembly. One of the great things about doing this is that you will not have to rely on other people to fix your own guns should something go wrong.


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## yellowroses

That is fine advice, Desertman. I have watched YouTube for take-down on the P-01, but what I've found is only very basic. Just enough to clean the essential parts. All advice is to leave anything more to a gunsmith. I'll check the CZ site for manuals of any sort. The "Manual" that comes with the pistol is very limited in information.

I checked Cajun Gun Works last night and they have the steel guide rod, but I am going to need some guidance on the spring. Custom CZ and Cajun only seem to have kits. Also my local dealer, who is also a gunsmith, says to not change the spring or it will not fire and reset correctly. I mentioned that several YouTube people have put in new springs to make the pistol operate more smoothly (a 14 lb spring in one specific example) and he said I could still ruin my pistol. I will wait to gather more information before attempting to "ruin" my pistol.
Thanks for your help.
Kate


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## desertman

yellowroses said:


> That is fine advice, Desertman. I have watched YouTube for take-down on the P-01, but what I've found is only very basic. Just enough to clean the essential parts. All advice is to leave anything more to a gunsmith. I'll check the CZ site for manuals of any sort. The "Manual" that comes with the pistol is very limited in information.
> 
> I checked Cajun Gun Works last night and they have the steel guide rod, but I am going to need some guidance on the spring. Custom CZ and Cajun only seem to have kits. Also my local dealer, who is also a gunsmith, says to not change the spring or it will not fire and reset correctly. I mentioned that several YouTube people have put in new springs to make the pistol operate more smoothly (a 14 lb spring in one specific example) and he said I could still ruin my pistol. I will wait to gather more information before attempting to "ruin" my pistol.
> Thanks for your help.
> Kate


If you're referring to the recoil spring, just stick with the standard factory weight springs. I believe it is already 14 lbs. You will have to change it eventually depending on how often you fire the gun. Maybe after 2000 rounds or so? No you will not ruin your pistol with other weight recoil springs. As long as the springs are for that specific pistol. It just may not cycle properly. Many people switch to a different spring weight depending on the type of ammunition they are using. The standard weight spring is pretty much the happy medium that will function with most types and loads of standard factory ammunition. Some people will use a heavier spring if they are using "hotter" loads. A lighter spring for "mild" loads. This will all depend on bullet weight, velocity and muzzle energy. Obviously if your gun does not cycle properly with a specific type of ammunition you may want to go with either a heavier or lighter recoil spring depending. Bullet weight and velocity are usually printed on the box of ammunition.

Some people will change their trigger and hammer springs in order to achieve a lighter trigger pull. In my opinion they are just asking for trouble as the results could be a mis-fire because of a lighter hammer to primer strike. That will not ruin your gun either, the gun will just not fire. Not a big deal on the range. If your life depends on it that's an entirely different story. Just remember that if you ever do get a mis-fire to point the gun safely down range and wait a minute or two before ejecting the cartridge. Otherwise the cartridge could blow up in your face as it is being ejected. A lot of mis-fires are caused by hand loaded ammunition, especially if their components are not stored properly and or careless hand loading..

Generally that is good advise to leave repairs to a competent gunsmith if you are not that mechanically inclined. Just make sure to check for references when choosing a gunsmith. As with mechanics there are both good and bad.


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## boatdoc173

I have many Czs. I have NEVER had the issues you are having. Yes they are tight at first. Shooting them after cleaning and lubing them works. FWIW avoid the frog lube. Use a nice oil like FP 10 or M-pro-7. I like super-lube multi liquid and some slip 200 to break in and lube all my guns

may I ask-do you have arthritis or other issues that hurt when you manipulate the gun? seems like a normal ,healthy person would NOT have any issues racking a slide, prepping a gun for the range... BUT someone with arthritic pain will be hard pressed to work a semi auto slide properly. I have seen it many times before

in the end, if you run 2-4oo round through it and still have issues, CZ CS is awesome and will help you out

enjoy the ride


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## yellowroses

I don't have arthritis issues and I had no trouble racking the slides of the CZ examples in the store. This gun arrived with its ""moving" parts feeling like they were bonded or cemented together. They are moving now, though still not yet smoothly. I will be putting a hundred rounds through it at the range tomorrow then coming home to clean and lubricate it.

I have heard some have problems with Frog Lube who live in northern climates. I live on the Gulf coast where even the two month winters are mild. The shooters in this area swear by Frog Lube. Thank you for your input, sir.

Kate

T.A.N.S.T.A.AF.L.


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## bykerhd

It's clean & lubed, time to put a box or two of ammo through it. 

That should help knock a few rough spots off and loosen things up.


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## nrd515525

I knew I was stronger than most people when I started shooting. People would complain about how hard it was to pull the slide back on their guns and I never saw it. I've only seen or shot one gun that I actually had problems with and that was an AMT Hardballer Longslide I bought in 1980 or so. About 50 rounds through it, the frame and slide were galling the hell out of each other and it was very difficult to rack the slide. It went back to AMT and it came back with polished up rails and running it wet, really wet solved that problem. I wish I could see the OP's gun to see how tight it really is.


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## CW

Enjoy the CZ.

There have been some concerns about the steel guide rod vs the plastic one [internal frame dings] but they appear linked to replaced springs.

I have a CZ Custom ss rod in my PCR. No issues to date.

Frog Lube is good on rails but in cold weather, it will gum up other parts. I use it on my Ruger SR only. I've been using Hoppes on all my other guns with no problems.


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## Tangof

I was very surprised by the OP's problem. One of the best things I found out with the CZ line was their out of the box reliability and accuracy. My first CZ was the P-01. Cleaned and lubed it, shot it and I was very, very satisfied. Since then, numerous surplus CZ 82's, the 75b, Kadet Kit, P-09, and the PCR. I never had a break in need with any of them. Sure I cleaned and lubed them all first, but the hard to rack problem I never encountered. By the way the P-01, my EDC gun has never, ever, malfunctioned.


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## elcue

I do no see any newer posts and I am new here. I know this post is probably useless at this time. All guns should be cleaned and lubed before first use at the range or elsewhere. Take them back home disassemble and look for the shinny rub spots and hit them with some 800 or more grit wet or dry paper. just enough to polish em up a bit. Concentrate on the spot rubbing on the other.Not as much as the spot being rubbed but do not neglect it either. My concern about the CZ 75 P-01 is the steel slide against the aluminium frame causing abnormal wear. I have all steel CZ 75 models and do I not worry about this. I do not see anywhere this is being talked about.


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## Tangof

The P-01 that is on my right side at this moment, it has been there on and off (Weather) for 14 years. No "Polishing it up", worked out of the box and failed exactly once when I got a target staple stuck in the magazine. Thousands of rounds of course, and half a dozen LEOSA qualifications. Steel slide against the Aluminum frame is news to me. Might be news to CZ USA also. Just shoot this great gun and quit worrying.i


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## desertman

elcue said:


> I do no see any newer posts and I am new here. I know this post is probably useless at this time. All guns should be cleaned and lubed before first use at the range or elsewhere. Take them back home disassemble and look for the shinny rub spots and hit them with some 800 or more grit wet or dry paper. just enough to polish em up a bit. Concentrate on the spot rubbing on the other.Not as much as the spot being rubbed but do not neglect it either. *My concern about the CZ 75 P-01 is the steel slide against the aluminium frame causing abnormal wear.* I have all steel CZ 75 models and do I not worry about this. I do not see anywhere this is being talked about.


There's a lot of guns besides CZ's that have steel slides and aluminum frames. Due to their lighter weight and other than polymer framed guns I'd venture to say that most handguns are now made that way. I've yet to hear of any major problems with that combination. For example M4's and M16A2's which are selective fire have aluminum receivers and steel bolts. If anything you'd think that at least they would wear out quickly? For most people it's not an issue, that's probably why no one talks about it.


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## desertman

Tangof said:


> The P-01 that is on my right side at this moment, it has been there on and off (Weather) for 14 years. No "Polishing it up", worked out of the box and failed exactly once when I got a target staple stuck in the magazine. Thousands of rounds of course, and half a dozen LEOSA qualifications. *Steel slide against the Aluminum frame is news to me. Might be news to CZ USA also.* Just shoot this great gun and quit worrying.i


I think you meant problems with steel slides against the aluminum frames? The P-01 has that combination whereas the CZ 75 B, CZ 75 Compact and Shadow 2 are all steel.

View attachment 16148


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## Tangof

desertman said:


> I think you meant problems with steel slides against the aluminum frames? The P-01 has that combination whereas the CZ 75 B, CZ 75 Compact and Shadow 2 are all steel.
> 
> View attachment 16148


Yes, I have to start proof reading my posts. Thanks for the clarification. The CZ 97 as well.


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