# Smith and Wesson 5906 Stiff slide release lever



## zoom996 (Dec 7, 2016)

I just traded a guy for a Smith and Wesson 5906 9mm pistol. I love heavy weight 9mm pistols because of the low recoil and high accuracy. So I was looking forward to this gun. 

Now I'm thinking this is not the gun for me. This gun is presenting a problem in the slide release. Racking the slide and pushing the slide release requires me to use fingers on both hands. I've never had a gun that used a slide release lever that required me to use such force. I can use only my right thumb on every other gun. Is there something wrong with my gun or is this normal for this pistol?


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## Craigh (Jul 29, 2016)

zoom996 said:


> Now I'm thinking this is not the gun for me. This gun is presenting a problem in the slide release. Racking the slide and pushing the slide release requires me to use fingers on both hands. I've never had a gun that used a slide release lever that required me to use such force. I can use only my right thumb on every other gun. Is there something wrong with my gun or is this normal for this pistol?


Maybe the gun wasn't used much and still needs breaking in. Just don't use the slide stop lever as a release. Pull back the slide with one of many methods. I use the overhand method to return the slide home. I've heard of folks buffing that slide stop lever. I would not. Just break it all in naturally maybe with a little RIG grease where the slide stop fits.


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## zoom996 (Dec 7, 2016)

Craigh said:


> Maybe the gun wasn't used much and still needs breaking in. Just don't use the slide stop lever as a release. Pull back the slide with one of many methods. I use the overhand method to return the slide home. I've heard of folks buffing that slide stop lever. I would not. Just break it all in naturally maybe with a little RIG grease where the slide stop fits.


Thanks Craig. I'll give it a shot. Or two. Lol. That's a funny pun.


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## Craigh (Jul 29, 2016)

zoom996 said:


> Thanks Craig. I'll give it a shot. Or two. Lol. That's a funny pun.


LOL. Good one, and thanks. One more thing about breaking it in.

Over time, I've read and heard the Model 59 and its descendants like the Model 5906 require a longer than normal break-in period as compared to some other handguns. Moreover, the all steel or stainless models like the 5906 seem to require longer yet. The good part is that when properly broken in, they make very reliable as well as fun shooters. Personally, I've noticed the few complaints seem to occur on relatively new guns.

So, here's what I think is what it takes, and this is just one man's opinion. Your mileage may vary. Unfortunately the Model 5906 comes with a magazine disconnect safety. This makes it harder to do dry fire practice. None the less, I'd suggest it will take 300 but possibly closer to 500 live rounds to break it in. To go with that might be 1,000 dry fires. Unfortunately, you might have to charge the magazine full of dummy rounds or snap caps to properly cycle it for dry fire because of that disconnect. Another thing I often do is to put it in my nightstands lower drawer and every night and every morning, pull it out with no magazine and rack the slide a dozen times or so or until my hand gets tired. In the beginning and because I have older arthritic hands, I use an oven mitt to rack the slide.

Also, I do a very thorough cleaning after around 50 or so rounds. Your gun may never have really been cleaned properly and may still have a lot of factory grit and Cosmoline inside. Strip it and clean it complete with copper bore brushes, tooth brushes, et al. The previous owner may have cleaned it but used one of those all in one methods like WD-40 or Ballistol. These often have more penetration product and organic cleaners than lubricant. Most have no more than 20% lubricant, but they will break a rusty bolt or are able to treat wood and leather. Unfortunately, they really don't do that well as gun cleaners. Instead, get you some gun solvent and lubricant separately. I like Hoppe's #9 solvent or G96 Nitro Solvent the best.

Also avoid their all-in-one formulas too. There's a temptation to make one's life easier. Don't give in to it. I have buddies who claim to use these all in ones and never had a problem in whatever years. I have often asked to see the barrel which looks good to the eye. I spray some nitro solvent in them and run a brush. I wait ten minutes, then wrap a clean patch on the brush and push it through the barrel. Their jaw drops when it comes out.

So, clean everything with solvent and brushes. Do a vigorous job, making sure to get any factory crud out of it. Pay special attention to the slide rails and frame rails. I use a copper toothbrush looking thing and dip it or spray nitro solvent on it. Scrub the breech face and ejection hook too. After this, I might use a solvent wet cloth to really clean out the crud I loosened. Make sure to get all of it out of the firearm. Use Q-Tip in tight places like the inside of those rails. When that gun is totally clean, set it aside to make sure all the solvent dries up and is gone. On a polymer framed gun, I avoid getting copper brushes on the frame. I use a toothbrush there.

After the gun is completely clean and dry, I lubricate and protect it. I use a light application of RIG gun grease on the rails and the outside of the barrel including where it locks up. I also use a light film on the entire firearm when I'm done for protection. I also use a RIG rug sometimes between cleanings on the outside for rust protection. I'm not picky about it though. I then use a fairly light weight gun oil on the trigger assembly and other internals. Just a drop or two where the manual tells you to put it. My oil of choice is AMSOIL Break-In Oil SAE 30. That's a automotive motor oil. I think it works well on firearms. One quart should last a lifetime a drop at a time. I pour a little into a squeeze bottle when needed, one at home for cleaning and one in the range bag. It also works great on my AR's and AK's especially when an AR15 needs to run wet.

Anyway, I think if you follow this advice, you'll find that 5906 will quickly become a firearm of choice. It will be smooth as silk and easy on the hands. Remember also, that thing you call a "slide release" lever, many call a "slide stop" lever, not meant for releasing the slide. I'm not that picky. I sometimes use it to release the slide if it's easy.


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

Probably not the issue, but something to look at. Generally many of these pistols were police trade ins from 1989-99. Perhaps a good 20 years' worth of accumulated crud, carbon, and lint residue has gummed it up?

If it continues to give you issues after the cleaning and lube, advice from a gunsmith may be in order. Probably a 10 second fix.

What you are experiencing for that model is not normal operation.


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

5906 | World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

Under further thought and research, part numbers 60 Slide Stop Pin , 61 Slide Stop Plunger , and 62 Slide Stop Plunger Spring may need to be inspected. Looks like Brownells has the 5906 covered for parts.


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## zoom996 (Dec 7, 2016)

Craig that's a great way to look at cleaning. Solvents should be used separately from lubricants. 

Denner thanks for looking into the issue for me. I'll take a look at those links.


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## SteamboatWillie (Jan 24, 2013)

I have a second gen S&W; two actually, a 459 and a 659. They are both difficult to release the slide using the slide catch. It is however very easy to operate by slingshotting the slide (from slide lock, pinch the end of the slide, pull back slightly and release). Whether you use a pinch grip or hand over, I'd check to see if this works for you.

The other consideration is that the habit of slingshotting works on most semi-autos, eliminating the need to "hunt" for the slide catch/release/stop depending on the model pistol.

Just another potential solution to the problem. It works for me. Here's a video on the good and bad of each method.


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## zoom996 (Dec 7, 2016)

Steamboat, I'll check out the video.

I figured out the problem.

I went to the range today and after finishing my first magazine I tried to use the slide release to close the slide and it required tremendous force as previously indicated. So I thought to myself, "What would happen if I disconnected the magazine and released the slide?" I tried again after I removed the magazine. This time it required a normal amount of force, perhaps even a light amount of effort to release the slide. i was shocked. Maybe this is a safety design feature for this gun. Smith and Wesson encourages removing the magazine to prevent accidentally discharging the weapon. 

So that's what i do with this gun. Every time I finish firing a magazine, I remove it before releasing the slide.


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

Yes, those models came with magazine release safety's. I don't know how you are releasing the slide but it's best not to let the slide slam home on an empty chamber in my opinion, ride it easily.


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