# Your opinions on a Model 617?



## RightTurnClyde (Oct 24, 2007)

I've been getting the itch to get a .22LR pistol for cheaper target plinking as well as getting a DA revolver. I think I may have found the scratch for both those itches in a Smith and Wesson 617. I'd definitely go for the 6 inch barrel since this would be for target shooting only. 

Does anyone have one of these? How do you like it? Is it a pain to get in there and clean all 10 of those little chambers?


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

I have a 4-inch M617 that I'm relatively happy with. It shoots pretty well for a shorter-barreled gun, and surprises me with an outstanding group fairly regularly. I sometimes wish I had gotten the 6" model based on its longer sight radius, but one of the main reasons I bought a 617 was to use as a cheaper-to-shoot understudy for my centerfire revolvers, and most of those are 4" or shorter.

I'd recommend buying one from a store where you can check it out in person PRIOR to committing to the purchase, as my gun and another one that I know of both had minor flaws in the forcing cone area. The other shooter sent his back to S&W for a fix, but I kept mine as I was afraid it might come back as a poorer shooting gun. It kind of ticked me off, as I don't think a $600+ dollar revolver from a company that's been making these things for over 100 years should have any visible machining flaws AT ALL, but I decided to live with it as-is.

Cleaning is no problem, just a few more holes to scrub out. There's a small company making speedloaders for it, too, if you want one.

25 yards, 5 shots, rested:









With speedloader and refill block, and smaller Hogue Bantam grips:


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## RightTurnClyde (Oct 24, 2007)

DJ Niner said:


> I'd recommend buying one from a store where you can check it out in person PRIOR to committing to the purchase, as my gun and another one that I know of both had minor flaws in the forcing cone area. The other shooter sent his back to S&W for a fix, but I kept mine as I was afraid it might come back as a poorer shooting gun. It kind of ticked me off, as I don't think a $600+ dollar revolver from a company that's been making these things for over 100 years should have any visible machining flaws AT ALL, but I decided to live with it as-is.


Thanks Niner. So it was just a visual flaw and not one that affected the functioning of the gun? That _is _a little troubling. Yes, I would make sure to check it out before purchase. My local shop even has one available to rent, so I'll probably try it out sometime soon.


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

It could be best described as "a hunk of metal missing from the forcing cone area." I don't have a photo of the problem, mainly because it raises my blood pressure just looking at it.

In any case, it doesn't SEEM to be affecting my accuracy, but I can never know for sure; the gun MIGHT have been an even BETTER shooter without the flaw. Who knows? Just look'em over closely before plunking down any cash.

Good luck!


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## DevilsJohnson (Oct 21, 2007)

Send it to them to fix it. S&W service is fantastic. They will go over the entire gun and make sure it's perfect. I've never seen one come back from them that was worse.


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

DevilsJohnson said:


> Send it to them to fix it. S&W service is fantastic. They will go over the entire gun and make sure it's perfect. I've never seen one come back from them that was worse.


I'm fairly sure they'd do a fine job on it, but you don't know how my luck runs. I could pick 99 numbers in a 100-number lottery and still lose... :mrgreen:

Besides, everyone can use a built-in excuse for those days when the shots just ain't landing where you want them to, right?


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## hideit (Oct 3, 2007)

The S&W 617 is my next purchase
Can't wait to get one
I have read that the 6" is rated at 1.5" groups at 50 yds
I saw on TV that Jerrry Mitchulak shoots a 617 at the 22 plate event in the competitions.
I held two - one was a 6 shot and was definitely a no no - gotta get the 6" 10 shot


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## mactex (Jan 23, 2007)

I've had my 4" 617 for about a year now and really enjoy it. I can shoot about 1" groups at 10 yards freehand with this revolver and that's pretty good for me! I purchased it so that I could practice the longer, heavier DA trigger pull which was not as easy to do with my DA/SA pistols. And I have seen a marked improvement in that area with both the 617 and my pistols.

As for cleaning, I'm a pistol person for the most part and I consider the 617 a real PITA to clean. Especially the cylinders. There may be an easy way to clean them, but I haven't found it yet. Keeping track of the next cylinder to be cleaned is a hassle and my biggest complaint is the difficulty of getting the front of the cylinder clean. In fact, I've yet to accomplish that feat. Thoughts? Comments? Criticism? Your input would be appreciated!


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

mactex said:


> I...
> 
> As for cleaning, I'm a pistol person for the most part and I consider the 617 a real PITA to clean. Especially the cylinders. There may be an easy way to clean them, but I haven't found it yet. Keeping track of the next cylinder to be cleaned is a hassle and my biggest complaint is the difficulty of getting the front of the cylinder clean. In fact, I've yet to accomplish that feat. Thoughts? Comments? Criticism? Your input would be appreciated!


Open the cylinder, and hold the weapon in your left hand with your two middle fingers extending through the cylinder hole in the frame, and your thumb wrapping over the top of the cylinder (similar to the position most folks use during loading/reloading). Grab your cleaning-rod mounted brush, dip it in the solvent/cleaner, and scrub the outermost chamber (farthest from the frame; it's the easiest one to work on without banging your knuckles into the frame). Scrub it back and forth 5-10 times, then pull out the brush, dip it in the solvent again, rotate the cylinder slightly using your thumb and fingers, and scrub the new chamber that is now in the outermost position. Repeat 4 to 8 more times, depending on model. Repeat for all chambers, using a clean patch on the rod or a .22 bore mop (shaped like a brush, but it's really woven wool or cotton).

As for the front of the cylinder, as long as your weapon is stainless steel, you can use a Lead-Away cloth and just wipe/scrub it aggressively, and the chemicals in the cloth will dissolve and remove the fouling. Be careful on guns with blued or other finishes, as the chemicals can wipe off the FINISH on these weapons.

On my stainless steel revolvers, I've also been known to use a stainless-steel toothbrush-type brush to remove stubborn fouling and crud. You do have to be careful with these, though, as they are stiff/strong enough to scratch many surfaces.

.22 bore mops:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=676648

Lead Away cloth:
http://secure.armorholdings.com/kleen-bore/product174.html

Lead Away patches:
http://secure.armorholdings.com/kleen-bore/product213.html

Cleaning brushes:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=22941&title=ALL PURPOSE BRUSHES


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