# Took the wheelgun plunge today



## IntegraGSR (Nov 6, 2007)

I plunked down the coin for a Ruger KGP-161 today. I'm calling it a birthday present for myself...:smt033 Hopefully I'll be able to pick it up on my birthday (in 7 days) but it'll probably be a day or two afterwards. Pics and range report coming!


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

It's not a "plunge", it's a refreshing dip in a civilized pool filled with other wheelgun aficionados! Be prepared to:

- NOT have to bend and grovel in the gravel to recover your brass for reloading

- be able to use ammunition of varying degrees of power (from powderpuff target ammo to thundering critter-slayer loads); even theatrical or dog-training blanks can be fired with no ill effects on your firearm's ability to function reliably

- be able to choose to reduce or enlarge your grip panels from slivers to slabs, enjoy the benefits of micrometer adjustable rear sights on some models, and experience a crisp, light, single-action trigger pull that will often bring tears of joy to your eyes.


Welcome to the "club"!


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## Bob Wright (May 10, 2006)

Couldn't have said it better, DJ!


Bob Wright


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## Wyatt (Jan 29, 2008)

I own a semo-auto and a revolver. Though I like my 92FS an awful lot, there is nothing quite like the timeless beauty and simplicity of my S&W 686.

Enjoy!!


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

John Wayne would be proud of you.

Welcome back from the Dark Side.

Enjoy

:smt1099


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## jeb21 (Jun 10, 2008)

I have the Ruger GP100 and like it quite a bit. The factory grips make shooting magnums a pleasure. I know that you will enjoy your new revolver.


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## IntegraGSR (Nov 6, 2007)

Can anyone recommend a good factory range ammo to pick up? I don't reload, as I don't have the know-how or equipment (for the time being at least, I'd like to learn and do so eventually) I'm not horribly concerned about home defense with this, as my G17 currently has that role. All I know about reloading has come from the interweb, and I feel that's the kind of thing I should learn from someone first-hand. (Anyone in MD willing to give a crash-course tutorial? lol!) I've only shot .357 from my local range, and it was a generic-looking blue box that appeared to be reloads, as some rounds were brass cased, some nickel-plated cased. Should I be concerned about FMJ, or soft point, or straight lead, or does it really matter in my situation? Any brands to look for or avoid?


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

For just range-blasting with Magnums, I'd recommend the aluminum-cased CCI Blazer 158 grain JHP ammo. It's quite accurate in my various .357s, and about the lowest-priced major-factory-made Magnum ammo out there, right now. Fair warning: some indoor ranges will not allow it to be used for various reasons, but the ACTUAL reason usually boils down to one or two: they don't sell it (and they'd rather sell you their own ammo); or, because the normal Blazer casing is not made of brass, they have to separate/sort if from any range pick-up casings before they can sell the casings for scrap brass, and they really HATE doing that. This second reason is also why some ranges ban Wolf steel-case ammo from the range, although at least you can use a magnet to separate Wolf steel cases from the brass. For a second choice in Magnum ammo, WalMart sells a couple of different loads at a fairly attractive price (Winchester White Box 110 grain JHP in a 50 round box, and Remington 125 JHP in a 100 round double-height box).

Of course, if having a thunderous BOOM and a flashbulb-like muzzle-flash is not that important to you, you can just shoot .38 Special ammo in your .357 revolver. It is shorter and less powerful, but many .38 Special loads are VERY accurate, and their lower recoil and noise levels make them much more pleasant to shoot (as does their lower price). After using .38 loads in your .357, be sure to clean the chambers really well to prevent any build-up of lead or powder fouling in the cylinder, or it may interfere with chambering or ejecting the longer-cased .357 loads later on.


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## Playboy Penguin (Jul 17, 2008)

*If you want a gun with real soul...*

...wheel guns are the only way to go.

You have taken your first step into appreciating a truly American art form...the revolver.


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## IntegraGSR (Nov 6, 2007)

DJ Niner said:


> For just range-blasting with Magnums, I'd recommend the aluminum-cased CCI Blazer 158 grain JHP ammo. It's quite accurate in my various .357s, and about the lowest-priced major-factory-made Magnum ammo out there, right now. Fair warning: some indoor ranges will not allow it to be used for various reasons, but the ACTUAL reason usually boils down to one or two: they don't sell it (and they'd rather sell you their own ammo); or, because the normal Blazer casing is not made of brass, they have to separate/sort if from any range pick-up casings before they can sell the casings for scrap brass, and they really HATE doing that. This second reason is also why some ranges ban Wolf steel-case ammo from the range, although at least you can use a magnet to separate Wolf steel cases from the brass. For a second choice in Magnum ammo, WalMart sells a couple of different loads at a fairly attractive price (Winchester White Box 110 grain JHP in a 50 round box, and Remington 125 JHP in a 100 round double-height box).
> 
> Of course, if having a thunderous BOOM and a flashbulb-like muzzle-flash is not that important to you, you can just shoot .38 Special ammo in your .357 revolver. It is shorter and less powerful, but many .38 Special loads are VERY accurate, and their lower recoil and noise levels make them much more pleasant to shoot (as does their lower price). After using .38 loads in your .357, be sure to clean the chambers really well to prevent any build-up of lead or powder fouling in the cylinder, or it may interfere with chambering or ejecting the longer-cased .357 loads later on.


I don't think my range has a problem with non-brass, I've never been told that by any of the employees and it's not posted with their rules anywhere. The big thing that attracted me to the .357 was the ability to also use .38's. I like ammo flexibility! Does using FMJ versus JSP make any real difference, other than possibly price? I've never seen plain lead for sale anywhere, so I guess that mainly pertains to reloaders? Is there any significant difference between bullet weights? I've never noticed any difference in different 9mm weights I've used.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help!


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

IntegraGSR said:


> Does using FMJ versus JSP make any real difference, other than possibly price?


Well, the JHP or JSP loads are used for self-defense and/or hunting, whereas the FMJ ammo is generally used only for range-blasting or informal target work. My personal experience has been that the JHP/JSP loads are more accurate; I've never found a bargain-priced FMJ load for _REVOLVERS_ that shot decently.



> I've never seen plain lead for sale anywhere, so I guess that mainly pertains to reloaders?


It's less common than it used to be, and I think that's because the lead-bullet loads leave a bit more fouling, both on the inside (the barrel) and outside of the gun. The only one I still see regularly on the shelf in some stores is the Federal American Eagle .38 Special 158 grain round-nose lead target load. This is pretty good stuff; I once won a pistol match with that ammo, when my ultra-accurate hand-loaded target ammo was accidentally left on the loading bench at home, halfway across the state (Doh!). Any factory-loaded .38 Special 148 grain wadcutter load should also shoot pretty well, and some will shoot superbly.



> Is there any significant difference between bullet weights? I've never noticed any difference in different 9mm weights I've used.


 If you precisely sight-in your adjustable-sighted revolver with one load, and then switch to another bullet weight, you should see SOME difference in point-of-impact; but if you generally shoot at closer distances (15 yards and less), it may not be very noticeable. At 25 yards and farther, it should be VERY obvious, but some loads _WILL_ shoot to nearly the same P-O-I, so there are no guarantees. All this assumes, of course, that you shoot fairly decent/small groups on target; if your groups are larger than a trash can lid at 7 yards, then no, you probably won't notice any difference. :smt002 :mrgreen:


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## IntegraGSR (Nov 6, 2007)

My range is only about 25 yards long, (indoor) so maybe that's why I havnt noticed much difference. Thanks again for the info, next trip I'll bring a trash can lid to gauge my groups, lol!!


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

Just goofin' around with ya; Lord knows, there have been some days that I would have missed the _ENTIRE TRASH CAN_, not just the lid! :mrgreen:

By the way, as I was browsing through a few local sporting goods stores yesterday, I remembered to look and see what .38 loads they had in stock. One lead-bullet load I had forgotten about was another CCI Blazer aluminum-cased offering. It, like the American Eagle load in the post above, has a 158 grain lead round nose bullet. Also good stuff, but I haven't shot any of it in years, so it had slipped my mind.

Here's hoping you shoot all bullseyes on your next range visit!


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## IntegraGSR (Nov 6, 2007)

The first revolver I fired, a smallish Smith 357, couldn't hit the broadside of a barn in my hands! I'd fire off all 5 at 25 feet, run the target back in, and only see one hole in the paper, at the bottom corner! Good thing nobody was watching!


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## IntegraGSR (Nov 6, 2007)

The Ruger's home, pics coming!

No pics yet, but I did take it to the range after work today. I put 50 Magtech .357's through it, and it ran flawlessly. I, on the other hand, need work! I actually did pretty good, but I had a few "wild pitches" when shooting DA. Shooting SA, I was MUCH better. I forgot to bring a screwdriver with to adjust the sight, but it does shoot high, so I can fix that next time. I'm very happy with it so far!


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