# Reliable gunsmith - Charlotte area



## RonSwansonsMustache (10 mo ago)

Folks, I just moved to the Charlotte area. I have some work I need done by a gunsmith. Most importantly, I would like some trigger work done on my 92fs.

After some research, I'm finding it hard to find to a reliable smith with solid reviews. Anyone have a line on a gunsmith that a) is responsive and b) takes their work seriously and will not return a gun in worse condition than when I dropped it off?

Seems like anyone can call themselves a gunsmith these days. I'm hoping someone from the area can help me separate the wheat from the chaff.

Thanks guys.


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## Arizona Desertman (10 mo ago)

RonSwansonsMustache said:


> Folks, I just moved to the Charlotte area. I have some work I need done by a gunsmith. Most importantly, I would like some trigger work done on my 92fs.
> 
> After some research, I'm finding it hard to find to a reliable smith with solid reviews. Anyone have a line on a gunsmith that a) is responsive and b) takes their work seriously and will not return a gun in worse condition than when I dropped it off?
> 
> ...


Forget about reviews, you should go to each one in person and tell them what you want done. This way you can get a feel of whether they're giving you a line of shit or not? You can go on-line and watch video's of any given task to get a general idea of how much work is involved for what you want done. Finding a good gunsmith is no different than finding a good auto mechanic, plumber or an electrician etc. There are a lot of people who have their friends and relatives write positive reviews about their business. There's nothing stopping them from writing positive reviews using multiple e-mail accounts with different aliases. On the flip side you can have others writing negative reviews using those same tactics. A lot of people have no idea of how much labor goes into any given job and will scream like hell when they get hit with the bill, then write a bad review for all the world to read.

On average a skilled gunsmith is going to charge $50+ an hour, any machine shop work $100+ an hour. When you say "trigger work" that can be anything from replacing the hammer and trigger return springs to polishing out all of the bearing/contact surfaces of the internal parts. Except for replacing the springs that can be a time consuming task that can't be rushed. For obvious reasons the gun will have to be thoroughly cleaned, re-assembled and lubricated. That alone can take up to an hour, depending on the gun of course.

The most simple way of improving the trigger on your 92FS is replacing the hammer spring with a Beretta "D" spring and trigger return spring. Either one or both, the "D" spring will make the most difference. If you're happy with that then you can leave the rest alone. If not then buy the complete set up including the trigger bar. There are different sets available depending on how much you want to spend. Trigger Return Spring Unless you have no mechanical abilities whatsoever you won't need a gunsmith to replace the hammer spring and shouldn't need one to replace the trigger return spring. For the hammer spring you'll just need the proper sized roll pin punch and a hammer.

Myself, I don't have any skin in this game as I do all of my own work and not for hire. I would never recommend anyone either in case the individual was not satisfied with their work. Along with automotive work I've been doing this for the greater part of my life. I'm letting you know this so you have a general idea of what you'll be in for. Hopefully separating the wheat from the chaff.


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## RonSwansonsMustache (10 mo ago)

Thanks man. I appreciate the straightforward, snark-less response. You've inspired me. I think I'm just going to do it myself.


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## Arizona Desertman (10 mo ago)

RonSwansonsMustache said:


> Thanks man. I appreciate the straightforward, snark-less response. You've inspired me. I think I'm just going to do it myself.


You're always welcome!

There's really no reason why you can't do it yourself. Just replacing the stock hammer spring with the "D" spring will make a big difference. The "D" spring was used in Beretta's double action only pistols the 92D. It will give you a lighter trigger pull in both double and single action. Since it's a factory part you don't have to be concerned with a light primer strike. Replacing the spring is maybe a 10-15 minute job, maybe a little bit more if you have no experience working on guns. 

Just remove the slide, then gently lower the hammer untill it rests on the frame. This relieves some of the tension on the spring. Remove the grip panels. There will still be some tension on the hammer spring with the hammer down. Place the bottom of the grip frame down on a flat surface holding it down firm. If it's a solid pin you should be able to push it out with your other hand using a 3/32 punch* or something similar. Remove the punch, then gently lift up on the frame, remove the spring cap and spring. 

When reinstalling the spring and cap, place the "D" spring over the hammer strut then the spring cap over the bottom of the spring and into the frame. With everything in place, hold the bottom of the grip frame down on a flat surface holding it down firm. With your other hand align the holes in the frame and spring cap with the punch. Once they're aligned you can reinstall the solid pin by hand. You'll probably need the punch to push it in the last 1/8 of an inch until the end of the pin is flush with the frame.

If it's a roll pin you'll have to tap the pin out with a roll pin punch and hammer. By placing the frame on a 3/4 inch wide roll of tape or book then driving it out. Once the roll pin is all the way out with the punch still holding everything together, hold the bottom of the grip frame down on a flat surface and remove the punch. Gently lift up on the frame then remove the spring cap and spring. 

When reinstalling the spring and cap, if it's a roll pin you'll need two punches. One to hold everything in place and the other to drive in the pin. First start the roll pin by tapping it into the frame by about 1/16 of an inch then install the spring and cap. Place the bottom of the grip frame down on a flat surface holding it down firm. With your other hand align the holes in the frame and spring cap with the other punch leaving it in place. Then start tapping the roll pin in with the roll pin punch until it catches the hole in the spring cap. Turn the frame on its side, remove the other punch and finish driving it in with the roll pin punch. Roll pins are tight fitting. A roll pin punch has a little nub on the end that prevents it from slipping off the roll pin while driving it in.

Sure you may have to buy a few tools if you don't already have them. But the cost of those tools will probably be cheaper than having a gunsmith do the work for you. Especially for a relatively easy job that you can easily do yourself. Not only that but you'll still have the tools in case you need them later on and the satisfaction that you did it yourself. 

*If it's a solid pin you can get a punch from your local hardware store. If it's a roll pin you can get a roll pin punch from Brownell's Punches | General Gunsmith Tools at Brownells or Midway. Gunsmithing Roll Pin Punch Sets: Steel & Brass Punches | MidwayUSA


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