# Converting PX4 Storm to decocker only or not.....



## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

I have three Beretta Storms. A compact 9mm and a full-size 40 and 45. All were bought as Type F’s. I bought the kits off BerettaUSA to convert all of them to a Type G which is decocker only. So far I’ve only converted my little 9 and it was kind of a bear. Those little roll pins are in there tight and they take some serious persuasion to get them out. 

At first I liked it, loved the smaller levers on the slide- which I still love, as they are a whole lot easier on the hands when racking the slide but here’s the thing....


Now that I’ve been shown that my Sig P220 single-action only 10mm is basically the same basic principle as a 1911, and is pretty much designed to be carried and stored as such, in the cocked and locked position(hammer cocked back, safety on), I’m not so sure now all of the sudden if I want any of my storms to not have a safety anymore. Consistency between all my guns is what I’m talking about. 

What’s yalls thoughts?


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## pblanc (Mar 3, 2015)

You really don't need a manual, external safety on a hammer-fired DA/SA pistol that is carried with a round chambered and the hammer down. In the opinion of many, the long, relatively heavy, and deliberate DA trigger pull serves as sufficient safety against a premature or unintended discharge.

Many dislike the slide-mounted safety on the Beretta 92 series, the PX4 storm, and other "F" type pistols because of the possibility that the safety could accidentally be engaged in the lever down position when executing a rapid malfunction clearance by racking the slide in a tense situation, and convert their pistols to "G" types in which the lever acts only as a decocker, which you have done.

I do not own a PX4. I have handled a few and found the stock "bat wing" levers less than desirable. I do own a Beretta 92FS. I have not converted it to a G type, but have installed a Wilson Combat Lo-profile, single-sided safety/decocker lever. This lever makes it just about impossible to trip the safety when racking the slide.

If I carried the big Beretta 92FS, which I do not, I would carry it with a round chambered and safety off. I would probably disengage the safety after holstering. There are a couple of instances in which a manual safety is convenient. For example, if shooting at the range, if I have not emptied the magazine and need to set the pistol down for any reason, I will engage the safety.


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

pblanc said:


> You really don't need a manual, external safety on a hammer-fired DA/SA pistol that is carried with a round chambered and the hammer down. In the opinion of many, the long, relatively heavy, and deliberate DA trigger pull serves as sufficient safety against a premature or unintended discharge.
> 
> Many dislike the slide-mounted safety on the Beretta 92 series, the PX4 storm, and other "F" type pistols because of the possibility that the safety could accidentally be engaged in the lever down position when executing a rapid malfunction clearance by racking the slide in a tense situation, and convert their pistols to "G" types in which the lever acts only as a decocker, which you have done.
> 
> ...


Yeah, and that was my initial thoughts in first place of why I wanted to convert them at all was because like you said, as long as the hammer isn't cocked back and safety off, it's just as safe as any single action revolver. It's a long ten-pound pull of the trigger to make it fire. Actually safer than said revolver because at any time the hammer's back, you don't have to manually lower the hammer like you do with that revolver. You just simply rotate that decocker down like you're gonna put it on safe, if it still had one, and the hammer is safely dropped without a negligent discharge.

I dunno, like I said, I just wanted consistency between these, and my Sig is exactly the opposite with hammer cocked, safety on. Storms, it's hammer not cocked, safety off.

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## denner12 (Oct 14, 2017)

I really dig the PX4 bat wings.


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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

I had a PX4 for a brief period.
After the safety got bumped to the ON position a few times while I was wearing the pistol I changed it to a "G" model.
I can't see how a person could draw and flip that SLIDE mounted safety off (one handed) in a hurry like you can with a 1911 type thumb safety. 
I saw that safety as a SNAFU just waiting to happen for a couple of reasons.
I can't see the need for a manual safety on a DA/SA pistol anyway.....

Sam


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

I probably will convert the other two, it was just a downright beeotch converting the other one. The roll pin that holds the left side of the decocker in was in really tight. I kept bending the punch trying to get it out and putting it back in. Too bad there’s not a way to put the slide in a vice and using it to push the pin out. 

How did you do yours?


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## denner12 (Oct 14, 2017)

SamBond said:


> I had a PX4 for a brief period.
> After the safety got bumped to the ON position a few times while I was wearing the pistol I changed it to a "G" model.
> I can't see how a person could draw and flip that SLIDE mounted safety off (one handed) in a hurry like you can with a 1911 type thumb safety.
> I saw that safety as a SNAFU just waiting to happen for a couple of reasons.
> ...


I'm with ya, my brother had young ones in the household and he preferred that extra level of safety. I've always preferred the G mode my self.


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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

corneileous said:


> I probably will convert the other two, it was just a downright beeotch converting the other one. The roll pin that holds the left side of the decocker in was in really tight. I kept *bending the punch* trying to get it out and putting it back in. Too bad there's not a way to put the slide in a vice and using it to push the pin out.
> 
> *How did you do yours?*
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Well it's been maybe three years since I dumped the PX4 so my memory of changing the parts is a little foggy but...

You gotta use the right type of steel punch, one made for such jobs and of the right size. (It has a long round shank of the correct size and is much larger at top where you apply the hammer).
Sorry, I don't remember what size or what the punch is called. Maybe a roll pin punch?

Best I can recall, I held the slide upside down on the bench using boards under the slide (to protect sights and give space for the pin to move out) and boards above/across the rail area of the slide with a "C" clamp or two to hold my makeshift jig in place.
There is (was) a machined in hole going all the way thru the slide so the roll pin _could_ be driven out either way. BUT, drive it out toward sights, not rails.
You need to drive the pin out downward (remember, with slide upside down) while pushing / holding the safety in the correct position so the pin lines up with the machined in hole and has clearance to freely move.
The machined in hole on the "rail side" of the slide is helpful to keep your punch straight.
All you gotta do is keep (hold) the safety in the correct position while working the punch and hammer.
Install in reverse order.
Best I can recall...

Have you checked YouTube? Just be careful, some of those guys don't really know their subject.

Sam


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

SamBond said:


> Well it's been maybe three years since I dumped the PX4 so my memory of changing the parts is a little foggy but...
> 
> You gotta use the right type of steel punch, one made for such jobs and of the right size. (It has a long round shank of the correct size and is much larger at top where you apply the hammer).
> Sorry, I don't remember what size or what the punch is called. Maybe a roll pin punch?
> ...


I followed a YouTube video but that guy's roll pin came out a whole lot easier than mine did. I bought the same punch kit he used and he just used the wooden case that the punches and hammer store in as a base to hammer on the slide on. I tried doing it that way but was unsuccessful so I just got two wooden blocks to set the slide on but I never thought of using two more wood blocks on top secured with a couple of C clamps. That's a helluva'n idea considering it was a pain having to hold the slide with one hand and hold the pinch with the same hand. That mighta been why I fought it so much, and kinda messed up the finish on the top of the slide from beatin' on it so much.

I'll have to try to find an actual roll pin punch small enough because I think that might've been a lot of my problem too but the only punch I had that was actually points on the end for a roll pin was way too big. The only small enough pin I had was just a flat bottom punch that kept drifting all over the place.

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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

The punch I used probably came from Snap-on. At one time you could get something that would work from Craftsman. Don't know about Craftsman these days considering the trouble Sears is in...
*>* The punch end has to be flat where it contacts the roll pin. *<* 
With the right tools and set up it should be a fairly easy job.

Sam


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

SamBond said:


> The punch I used probably came from Snap-on. At one time you could get something that would work from Craftsman. Don't know about Craftsman these days considering the trouble Sears is in...
> *>* The punch end has to be flat where it contacts the roll pin. *B]
> With the right tools and set up it should be a fairly easy job.
> 
> Sam*


*

Yeah I'm not sure of the quality of this set of punches I bought off Amazon. As I was sayin, if I didn't have to hold the slide still with my other hand as I beat on the head of that punch, I probably could've been able to apply a lot more more of a solid, and more controlled whack with the hammer.

And yeah, I didn't mean more like a drill set punch, I meant to say an actual rollpin punch that's flat on the outer circumference of it, but it has the small point in the center of it, kinda like a nail-set punch for finish nails.

But if I'm not mistaken, I think Home Depot pretty much took over the Craftsman tool line. Or well, they started selling them now.

But yeah, I'm kinda anxious to try that with the clamps and better securing that slide down so I don't have to hold it, and the punch. Lol.

I dunno, in one way I think I'd just almost rather convert the one back instead to an F than converting the other two to match this one since I really don't have a problem with slide mounted safety's. My 9mm Ruger LC9s has a slide mounted safety, and it's what I primarily carry. But I will say, it's safety lever on it is a lot easier to use, too. And it's the same as most pistols where up is safe and down is fire. My Berettas are the opposite.

But on the other hand, I also like the idea of have the three guns be like a revolver but with a decocker. And the fact that the safety's are backwards. Well, from everything else.

But I have a question: on the one that I've already converted... now that it's basically a safety-less gun, is it now recommended to pull that hammer back to the first catch/half cocked or whatever it's called whenever it's loaded, carried or stored? I'm assuming that the same danger of a negligent discharge will exist if the pistol was to be dropped and it lands on the hammer....

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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

corneileous said:


> *But I have a question: on the one that I've already converted... now that it's basically a safety-less gun, is it now recommended to pull that hammer back to the first catch/half cocked or whatever it's called whenever it's loaded, carried or stored? I'm assuming that the same danger of a negligent discharge will exist if the pistol was to be dropped and it lands on the hammer....*
> 
> *Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro*


Because the pistol has an inertia firing pin...
The CYA / lawyer speak answer to that would probably be leave the hammer down resting against the slide.
The logic is that if the hammer is at "half cock" and then hit hard enough to shear the half cock notch that _could_ make it easier (or more likely) to fire because the hammer would be able to get a running start, so to speak. 
With the hammer resting against the slide there _should be_ less chance of a hard hit to the hammer transferring enough inertia to the firing pin to make it go bang.

In the real world... (Or, my world and only my opinion).
I've owned a few DA/SA pistols. Most (as is the case with the PX4) have a 'click' when pulling the trigger when starting from the hammer all the way down position.
I do not want it to make any noise before it goes bang. That certainly can't cause a problem but that's just me...
The main thing I don't like about starting out from 'hammer all the way down' is it gives a longer trigger pull / reach that I find objectionable.
Every keyboard warrior and firearm manufacturer will tell you the half cock position is only there to stop the pistol from firing if your finger slips off the hammer when cocking.
I have a pretty fair amount of mechanical knowledge and I feel completely safe carrying with the hammer at half cock, but that's just me.
You should decide for yourself.

Sam


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

SamBond said:


> Because the pistol has an inertia firing pin...
> The CYA / lawyer speak answer to that would probably be leave the hammer down resting against the slide.
> The logic is that if the hammer is at "half cock" and then hit hard enough to shear the half cock notch that _could_ make it easier (or more likely) to fire because the hammer would be able to get a running start, so to speak.
> With the hammer resting against the slide there _should be_ less chance of a hard hit to the hammer transferring enough inertia to the firing pin to make it go bang.
> ...


Yeah I'll have to take a peek again in the manual to see what it says about the hammer being at half cock.

So what are you saying, it's best to leave the hammer at full forward rest instead of halfway pulled back? Which makes sense of what you were saying that if the gun were ever to be dropped and if the impact of the ground/hard pavement, concrete was blunt and solid enough to shear that half-cock notch, I could see the increased potential for that hammer having the "running start" you talked about.

But what do you mean about this "click" that you're talking about? I guess I've never paid attention to this with any of mine.

But if I'm reading you correctly, isn't that long, trigger pull part of the safety of carrying this pistol without the actual safety on(if it wasn't now a type G)?

But just for clarification, how would you carry one of these Storms, or any other DA/SA pistol?

I figured I was doing the right thing, kinda like the same thing with my little 22 magnum with the half-notch between two of the cylinders. I guess I had too much faith in, or didn't realize that the notch that holds the hammer in the half cock position could possibly fail if the gun was ever dropped because I was using the same principle of not resting the hammer against all the workings just in front of a live round. 


> You should decide for yourself.
> 
> Sam


Oh, I intend to. But gaining the proper knowledge, and learning why things work the way they do, and how they work the way they do, is the first step to deciding on your own.

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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

*"So what are you saying, it's best to leave the hammer at full forward rest instead of halfway pulled back?"*
(First, what we / I are calling half cock is *not* a hammer pulled halfway back).
In mechanical theory, positively yes, but I'm not sure how much difference it makes. 
I wonder if there has ever been a scientific study to prove how much difference there really is of an impact with an equal amount of force applied to a pistol's hammer at half cock compared to one with the hammer at full forward?

*"But what do you mean about this "click" that you're talking about? I guess I've never paid attention to this with any of mine."*
Isn't there a "click" sound as the hammer passes the half cock position when starting from full forward? Or is my memory of the PX4 faulty?

*"But if I'm reading you correctly, isn't that long, trigger pull part of the safety of carrying this pistol without the actual safety on (if it wasn't now a type G)?"*
Well, we are calling it "half cock" but it is not actually half way cocked. You still have a long trigger pull when the pistol is at what I'm referring to as "half cock".

*"But just for clarification, how would you carry one of these Storms, or any other DA/SA pistol? " *


SamBond said:


> I have a pretty fair amount of mechanical knowledge and* I feel completely safe carrying with the hammer at half cock, but that's just me.
> You should decide for yourself.*
> 
> Sam


Sam


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## denner12 (Oct 14, 2017)

corneileous said:


> *But I have a question: on the one that I've already converted... now that it's basically a safety-less gun, is it now recommended to pull that hammer back to the first catch/half cocked or whatever it's called whenever it's loaded, carried or stored? I'm assuming that the same danger of a negligent discharge will exist if the pistol was to be dropped and it lands on the hammer....
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro*


Noop, mis-information if we are talking about a PX4 or 92FS in a "G" model/conversion, they both have firing pin blocks that will not disengage until the very last of the trigger pull. They are always drop safe regardless of a G or FS model, and whether being half cocked, full cocked, or hammer down. You see that little bar that lifts at the rear back top of the slide at the very end of the trigger pull? That's what that is, a visual that lets you know when that hammer is going to fall at the very end of the trigger pull. The trigger must be fully depressed before it will fire. Beretta does not recommend the pistol being carried in a half cock position. It does make for a shorter trigger pull at half cock however, no harm to the pistol, but I believe a safety precaution.


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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

SamBond said:


> Because the pistol has an inertia firing pin...
> The CYA / lawyer speak answer to that would probably be leave the hammer down resting against the slide.
> 
> ....... and *firearm manufacturer will tell you the half cock position is only there to stop the pistol from firing if your finger slips off the hammer when cocking.*
> ...


[QUOTE="denner12, post: 689203, member: 47337 *Beretta does not recommend the pistol being carried in a half cock position.* It does make for a shorter trigger pull at half cock however, no harm to the pistol, but I believe a safety precaution.[/QUOTE]

Thanks denner,
I believe this subject is now TOTALLY covered.

Sam


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

SamBond said:


> *"So what are you saying, it's best to leave the hammer at full forward rest instead of halfway pulled back?"*
> (First, what we / I are calling half cock is *not* a hammer pulled halfway back).
> In mechanical theory, positively yes, but I'm not sure how much difference it makes.
> I wonder if there has ever been a scientific study to prove how much difference there really is of an impact with an equal amount of force applied to a pistol's hammer at half cock compared to one with the hammer at full forward?


Well I guess I'm a little bit confused now because I thought the whole point of us talking about not leaving the hammer pulled back at any distance- quarter-cocked, half-cocked, whatever the proper terminology is, so that the hammer doesn't have that running start towards the back of slide if the impact with the ground with the hammer was great enough to shear the catch or whatever it is that holds the hammer back in that position.



> *"But what do you mean about this "click" that you're talking about? I guess I've never paid attention to this with any of mine."*
> Isn't there a "click" sound as the hammer passes the half cock position when starting from full forward? Or is my memory of the PX4 faulty?


Are you talking about manually cocking the hammer back, or when you're firing the first round in double-action mode as the hammer is traveling back with the long movement of the trigger?

As I said, either way, I've never paid any attention to whether it does or doesn't. But I will definitely check though.



> *"But if I'm reading you correctly, isn't that long, trigger pull part of the safety of carrying this pistol without the actual safety on (if it wasn't now a type G)?"*
> Well, we are calling it "half cock" but it is not actually half way cocked. You still have a long trigger pull when the pistol is at what I'm referring to as "half cock".


Yeah, I get that now, that first catch of the hammer moving backwards is only like barely a quarter of an inch from the back of the slide.



> *"But just for clarification, how would you carry one of these Storms, or any other DA/SA pistol? " *
> I have a pretty fair amount of mechanical knowledge and I feel completely safe carrying with the hammer at half cock, but that's just me.
> 
> Sam


Well I guess some DA/SA pistols were meant to be carried with the hammer partially cocked back but now that I think about it, I think denner12's right in saying Beretta doesn't condone pulling that hammer back at all while in double-action mode due to design.

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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

denner12 said:


> Noop, mis-information if we are talking about a PX4 or 92FS in a "G" model/conversion, they both have firing pin blocks that will not disengage until the very last of the trigger pull. They are always drop safe regardless of a G or FS model, and whether being half cocked, full cocked, or hammer down. You see that little bar that lifts at the rear back of the slide at the very end of the trigger pull? That's what that is, a visual that lets you know when that hammer is going to fall at the very end of the trigger pull. The trigger must be fully depressed before it will fire. Beretta does not recommend the pistol being carried in a half cock position. It does make for a shorter trigger pull at half cock however, no harm to the pistol, but I believe a safety precaution.


So in other words to what you're saying, is that irregardless of where the hammer is at all, the only way the the hammer can get to the firing pin is when the trigger is fully depressed, correct?

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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

Denner is right.
I have no doubt that Beretta does not recommend the pistol being carried in the half cock position.
A person should do what they are comfortable with and what works for them.

*"But what do you mean about this "click" that you're talking about? I guess I've never paid attention to this with any of mine."*

*"Are you talking about manually cocking the hammer back, or when you're firing the first round in double-action mode as the hammer is traveling back with the long movement of the trigger?" *
When pressing the trigger and the hammer is traveling back.

Sam


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

SamBond said:


> Denner is right.
> I have no doubt that Beretta does not recommend the pistol being carried in the half cock position.
> A person should do what they are comfortable with and what works for them.


I don't either, and that's why I said after reading what he said about it, I think I do now remember the manual stating not to do it. But it didn't go into detail at all I don't think, like he did, when he was saying the gun was perfectly drop-safe if you carried it loaded with the safety off, kinda like a rudimentary semi-auto revolver where your safety was the long, 10-pound, double action first shot.

Which is primarily what sparked this sub-discussion in the first place because now that my 9mm storm is now just decocker only, and if I carry my other two storms in the same fashion(safety off), I wasn't sure if they were just as dangerous as my little 22magnum revolver was, if dropped, and the hammer wasn't resting in the half-notch.



> *"But what do you mean about this "click" that you're talking about? I guess I've never paid attention to this with any of mine."*
> 
> *"Are you talking about manually cocking the hammer back, or when you're firing the first round in double-action mode as the hammer is traveling back with the long movement of the trigger?" *
> When pressing the trigger and the hammer is traveling back.
> ...


Ok, that's what I thought you meant and maybe that's also why I haven't noticed it. Probably because I don't really care for that first shot in DA mode because I'm too used to SA shots after the first round fired.

Maybe I need to practice that first shot more since that's how the first shot will be in a situation.

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## denner12 (Oct 14, 2017)

corneileous said:


> So in other words to what you're saying, is that irregardless of where the hammer is at all, the only way the the hammer can get to the firing pin is when the trigger is fully depressed, correct?
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Yep, you got it.


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

denner12 said:


> Yep, you got it.


That's good to know. Wonder why Beretta recommends against pulling the hammer back to the first click... as far as I'm concerned, it makes me feel better carrying it hammer fully forward.

Thank all you guys for your help.

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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

SamBond said:


> Well it's been maybe three years since I dumped the PX4 so my memory of changing the parts is a little foggy but...
> 
> You gotta use the right type of steel punch, one made for such jobs and of the right size. (It has a long round shank of the correct size and is much larger at top where you apply the hammer).
> Sorry, I don't remember what size or what the punch is called. Maybe a roll pin punch?
> ...


Well, I got my other two storms finally converted. Did these two in half the time almost that it took to do the little 9mil. Thank you for that advice. It was a lot easier clamping the slides down. Worked out great.

ETO-
I spoke with a beretta tech through email and for some reason, he wasn't permitted to tell me it was ok to carry these pistols with the safety off while in the Type F configuration. I thought that was a little strange because if you have a Type G, there's only one way...lol. I'm assuming it's because the Type F has a safety, therefore it's meant to be carried with the safety on. I dunno, but I did find out one other difference between the two, though. The safety decocker has that little hook-shaped lever that when on safe, it disengages the trigger from the hammer. My new slim profile decocker only levers don't have that, and even if you were to hold the lever down where safe is, the trigger will still operate the hammer.

But he did verify that the weapon will only fire with the trigger pulled that, hitting the back of the hammer won't do anything.

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## pic (Nov 14, 2009)

Remember , you're not obligated to use the double action, you can always manually cock the hammer into single action mode.

Also Imo, whether you carry with the safety on or off,,,,you should always sweep the safety before an unexpected/expected situation.

I missed a lot of hunting "game" thinking the safety was turned off.
In a self defense situation you better be RIGHT about the safety status.
The px4 safety lever is very exposed and very prone to inadvertently turning the safety on n off.


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

pic said:


> Remember , you're not obligated to use the double action, you can always manually cock the hammer into single action mode.
> 
> Also Imo, whether you carry with the safety on or off,,,,you should always sweep the safety before an unexpected/expected situation.
> 
> ...


Well at least now with these guns, I don't have to worry about that anymore because they no longer have safety's. They've all been converted to Type G which is just decocker only. Plus the decocker levers are now slim profile unlike the big, gawky levers that were on there.

Now my Sig 220 10mil that is like to use for hog hunting on the other hand, it's single action only much like a 1911 but without the grip safety. It's designed to be carried cocked and locked with the safety on.

The only thing I now have to practice with on my Storms is getting used to that long, 10-pound trigger pull of the first shot. After that it's in single action mode.

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## pic (Nov 14, 2009)

corneileous said:


> Well at least now with these guns, I don't have to worry about that anymore because they no longer have safety's. They've all been converted to Type G which is just decocker only. Plus the decocker levers are now slim profile unlike the big, gawky levers that were on there.
> 
> Now my Sig 220 10mil that is like to use for hog hunting on the other hand, it's single action only much like a 1911 but without the grip safety. It's designed to be carried cocked and locked with the safety on.
> 
> ...


Consider the long pull an option to use. 
Why use the the long pull of the double action when you're able to cock the hammer?
Excluding revolvers,
IMO, using the long pull of the double action Means the perp or bad guy, or animal , lol , is very close or on top of you.


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

pic said:


> Consider the long pull an option to use.
> Why use the the long pull of the double action when you're able to cock the hammer?
> Excluding revolvers,
> IMO, using the long pull of the double action Means the perp or bad guy, or animal , lol , is very close or on top of you.


Yeah, that's true. I was just thinking more for consistency but you're right, pulling the hammer back on a draw really isn't difficult.

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## pic (Nov 14, 2009)

corneileous said:


> Yeah, that's true. I was just thinking more for consistency but you're right, pulling the hammer back on a draw really isn't difficult.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Hey corneileous, 
I may keep my px4 in double action if I'm on HIGH ALERT lol.
I can't keep my finger off the trigger, lol.


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## denner12 (Oct 14, 2017)

I personally believe it is not advised to disregard the DA to get to the SA. Learn the DA properly and you should be able to hit anything that you normally would in SA, just sayin. I would never attempt to cock the hammer manually on any of my DA/SA Beretta's in a self defense situation. Perhaps a "D" spring or the PX4 drop in comp trigger would help if you are having an issue mastering the DA,. FYI, dry firing practice w/ snap caps does wonders and the Ernest Langdon videos I posted a while back.


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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

pic said:


> Consider the long pull an option to use.
> Why use the the long pull of the double action when you're able to cock the hammer?
> Excluding revolvers,
> *IMO, using the long pull of the double action Means the perp or bad guy, or animal , lol , is very close or on top of you.*


Are you saying you can draw, cock the hammer and fire faster than drawing and simply pulling a DA trigger?
Or did I misunderstand....


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## pic (Nov 14, 2009)

SamBond said:


> Are you saying you can draw, cock the hammer and fire faster than drawing and simply pulling a DA trigger?
> Or did I misunderstand....


It's an option, definitely not a faster option, possibly a more accurate bullet placement option. 
If you had a "one shot opportunity", and time was not critical, but the one shot was very important, wouldn't you rather take the shot in single action?


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## pic (Nov 14, 2009)

denner12 said:


> I personally believe it is not advised to disregard the DA to get to the SA. Learn the DA properly and you should be able to hit anything that you normally would in SA, just sayin. I would never attempt to cock the hammer manually on any of my DA/SA Beretta's in a self defense situation. Perhaps a "D" spring or the PX4 drop in comp trigger would help if you are having an issue mastering the DA,. FYI, dry firing practice w/ snap caps does wonders and the Ernest Langdon videos I posted a while back.


I agree, in many self defense situations double action is the better option.

I do find that hitting a moving target in double action is much more difficult.
Ducks ,Deer, trap, skeet , bad guys, lol

Of course hitting a target coming straight towards you and time is of the essence, lol. Double action will get the job done.

I've never heard of anyone being a more accurate shooter in double action with the da/as format.


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

denner12 said:


> I personally believe it is not advised to disregard the DA to get to the SA. Learn the DA properly and you should be able to hit anything that you normally would in SA, just sayin. I would never attempt to cock the hammer manually on any of my DA/SA Beretta's in a self defense situation. Perhaps a "D" spring or the PX4 drop in comp trigger would help if you are having an issue mastering the DA,. FYI, dry firing practice w/ snap caps does wonders and the Ernest Langdon videos I posted a while back.


I think it's alright when at the range but in a self-defense situation, some could relate remembering to pull that hammer back as the same as remembering to take a safety off.

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## Kcptech20 (Nov 24, 2020)

corneileous said:


> I have three Beretta Storms. A compact 9mm and a full-size 40 and 45. All were bought as Type F's. I bought the kits off BerettaUSA to convert all of them to a Type G which is decocker only. So far I've only converted my little 9 and it was kind of a bear. Those little roll pins are in there tight and they take some serious persuasion to get them out.
> 
> At first I liked it, loved the smaller levers on the slide- which I still love, as they are a whole lot easier on the hands when racking the slide but here's the thing....
> 
> ...


I know this is an old thread, but I'm looking for a safety lever with detent for a 9mm, do you, or anyone else that's swapped them out still have one?

thank you
Jeremy


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## corneileous (Feb 17, 2018)

Kcptech20 said:


> I know this is an old thread, but I'm looking for a safety lever with detent for a 9mm, do you, or anyone else that's swapped them out still have one?
> 
> thank you
> Jeremy


I'm thinking pretty much the only safety decocker levers for the storms are the factory type F levers that come on these pistols when they're brand new. I'm not sure if the Langdon Carry levers or the type G stealth levers are available with that detent, ball and spring but supposedly you can use the safety decocker levers that come on the 92/96.

But I guess if you're interested in the original type F levers for a PX4 and I guess if I could maybe part with one set since I have three storms that I've all done converted to type a G, send me a PM and maybe we could work something out.

I usually tend to hang on to spare parts like that just in case if there ever was a time that I may need them but since I don't plan to ever sell these handguns and since I much prefer them to not have a safety, I highly doubt I'll ever need these parts for anything else.

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## Kcptech20 (Nov 24, 2020)

corneileous said:


> I'm thinking pretty much the only safety decocker levers for the storms are the factory type F levers that come on these pistols when they're brand new. I'm not sure if the Langdon Carry levers or the type G stealth levers are available with that detent, ball and spring but supposedly you can use the safety decocker levers that come on the 92/96.
> 
> But I guess if you're interested in the original type F levers for a PX4 and I guess if I could maybe part with one set since I have three storms that I've all done converted to type a G, send me a PM and maybe we could work something out.
> 
> ...


Quick update, I was able to find a ball that fit, re staked the hole, seems to be working for now.


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