# What chemicals/cleaners?



## painter69 (Dec 19, 2007)

absolutely cannot go anywhere near my gun? Which can I use liberally? And what is a good light weight oil to use, I'm in the pacific NW, we don't tan we rust and don't want rust on the guns:smt076


----------



## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

As a general rule, I don't use anything to clean or lube my guns which isn't sold as a gun cleaner/lubricant. It's usually not a problem for the guns as much as it might be for the ammo. If a cleaner/lube is highly penetrative, it might have a negative affect on your ammo in the long-term.

[rant] I honestly don't understand the endless search some folks perpetuate to find the "best" cleaner or "best" lube. We have 20 different products of each that work just fine, but these people gotta try this "green" cleaner, and that "orange" cleaner, and the latest high-speed/low-drag use-only-a-dab-for-20-years synthetic lube. So what if you find something "better"; what's it gonna save you, 10, 20 seconds per cleaning, at the most? I've also seen some plastic or aluminum gun parts ruined or permanently stained/marked by folks using brake cleaner or similar crap. I swear... [rant off]

Where was I?

Oh yes, cleaning solvent/lube choices. Go to your favorite gunshop, or even WalMart. Find the aisle with gun cleaning kits. Buy one. Alternative: buy whatever the military is using, or it's commercial equivalent. I use Break Free CLP on all my guns. Started using it in when I was in the service. It works fine. Not the fastest, not the bestest, not the slickest, just slightly better than average. But it also works well in extreme cold, which is important to me because of where I live.

In most cases, any light non-detergent machine oil can be used to prevent rust and lubricate a gun. My dad used sewing-machine oil for decades; never had a problem. Don't goop it up; a light coating is best, and wipe-off/reclean/relube as needed. In a damp environment, regular cleaning/relubing will be needed more often with ANY product, so it really doesn't matter WHAT you use, in my opinion.

Hope this was helpful.


----------



## submoa (Dec 16, 2007)

I use a Bore Snake and Break-Free CLP.

This stuff was developed for the military as an all-purpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative for weapons, and replaced 20-some different federal stock numbers, being used for everything from cannon bore cleaner on down. It is a synthetic diester oil base with a DuPont Teflon additive, and is available in several viscosity grades suitable for different temperature ranges. It is a very effective lubricant, will also neutralize the corrosive effects of blackpowder and chlorate primers. It will also protect guns against complete saltwater immersion for short periods. I have never seen anything better for cleaning the encrusted carbon from automatic weapons. Just coat the part, let it soak overnight, and wipe off. If you clean and lubricate with the stuff fouling seems to build up less in future use. All the various grades of CLP come under the specification Mil-L-63460, and you may see it with the suffix letters A through D, depending upon temperature range and viscocity. The only drawback I have seen with this is that when using it in the bores of sniper rifles or target rifles where you require precise first-shot accuracy, you should clean it out of the bore with Hoppes, Shooter's Choice, or Mil-C-372B, as the teflon is persistent and causes fliers in your groups until the bore settles into a uniform condition. This is also VERY noticable with .22 rimfire rifles, but is not a significant factor in handguns or military type semi-autos which are not used for competition. The fliers might be enough to miss a 300 yard wooodchuck, but not a deer sized animal. It is a good product.

I also try to have a gunsmith (armorer) thoroughly tear down and clean my guns every 18 months.


----------



## PhilR. (Apr 25, 2007)

DJ Niner said:


> [rant] I honestly don't understand the endless search some folks perpetuate to find the "best" cleaner or "best" lube. We have 20 different products of each that work just fine, but these people gotta try this "green" cleaner, and that "orange" cleaner, and the latest high-speed/low-drag use-only-a-dab-for-20-years synthetic lube. So what if you find something "better"; what's it gonna save you, 10, 20 seconds per cleaning, at the most? I've also seen some plastic or aluminum gun parts ruined or permanently stained/marked by folks using brake cleaner or similar crap. I swear... [rant off]


Took the words right outta my mouth.

PhilR.
btw - what are you doing inside my mouth?.....
:mrgreen:


----------



## painter69 (Dec 19, 2007)

I didn't want to use anything exotic. I've only owned a gun for 2 mo. I'm sure I'll come up with some more dumb ?? :smt082 The CLP seems to work, But i don't know any better  Thanks guys


----------



## BeefyBeefo (Jan 30, 2008)

I personally use G96 to clean and lube with Hoppes gun oil. I also use a little gunslick on the slide rails.

-Jeff-


----------



## Todd (Jul 3, 2006)

I use Hoppes to clean, and Mobil 1 Synthetic to lube.


----------



## 69Roadrunner (Nov 17, 2007)

CorrosionX. Fisherman use it to preserve their gear. If it can help protect gear used in a salt water environment, it should do just fine protecting firearms in high humidity areas.


----------



## Wyatt (Jan 29, 2008)

Break-Free CLP for me. I will also use Hoppe's in the bore, but I like that the Breakfree is also a lube and protectant. I'm probably over-careful but the BF CLP doesn't seem as harsh as some other stuff so I feel a little more comfortable when I spray it on and give it some soak time before cleaning it off. By the time I've used the tooth brush, bore brush, and patches my gun is as clean as it gets with anything else. Plus, when I'm through cleaning all that's left to do is a few drops of gun oil here and there and I'm done. If I miss any areas with the gun oil no big deal cuz at least it was already hit with the CLP.

Hope this helps.


----------



## BeefyBeefo (Jan 30, 2008)

Wyatt said:


> Break-Free CLP for me. I will also use Hoppe's in the bore, but I like that the Breakfree is also a lube and protectant. I'm probably over-careful but the BF CLP doesn't seem as harsh as some other stuff so I feel a little more comfortable when I spray it on and give it some soak time before cleaning it off. By the time I've used the tooth brush, bore brush, and patches my gun is as clean as it gets with anything else. Plus, when I'm through cleaning all that's left to do is a few drops of gun oil here and there and I'm done. If I miss any areas with the gun oil no big deal cuz at least it was already hit with the CLP.
> 
> Hope this helps.


That's the same reason I use G96, it's a cleaner as well as a protectant which you let soak in on the last coat. From what I understand Break-Free is pretty similar to G96, but I may be wrong.

-Jeff-


----------



## Wyatt (Jan 29, 2008)

I hadn't seen G96 and just checked it out online. Yeah it's a CLP so I imagine it's pretty similar. I just use the Break-Free because that's what they sell at my usual haunts (the local range and gun store). But if I came across G96 I'd give it a try since I now know it works for you.


----------



## BeefyBeefo (Jan 30, 2008)

Wyatt said:


> I hadn't seen G96 and just checked it out online. Yeah it's a CLP so I imagine it's pretty similar. I just use the Break-Free because that's what they sell at my usual haunts (the local range and gun store). But if I came across G96 I'd give it a try since I now know it works for you.


This is totally irrelevant, but G96 smells really good too.  They don't carry it at Walmart, but all of our sporting goods stores have it. It's good stuff and I would definitely recommend it. I have friends who use Break-Free or G96 just depending on what they bought the last time they needed something, but they do all prefer the G96 over the Break-Free for reasons I don't know.

-Jeff-


----------

