# PT740 trigger pull



## Juanluk (Dec 30, 2013)

Sorry if this has been asked before (did a search and nothing came up), but can the single action trigger pull of the PT740 be reduced? It is my wife's gun and she has been having alot of trouble squeezing off the rounds after the 1st due to the 7lb (i believe) trigger pull.


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Although I don't know for certain, since I have absolutely no experience with any Taurus gun, it is usual that if you polish the internal trigger-related parts and square-up any sear notch you find, the trigger pull will seem much lighter.

Maybe let a decent gunsmith do this, since the angles on some parts may be safety-critical.


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## Scott9mm (Jul 2, 2012)

Steve's comments don't really apply to the striker design on the PT709/740. Several posters on the Taurus Armed site reported similar problems. In some cases a small bending of the trigger bar fixed the problem and in some cases the gun had to go back to Miami for repair. The sear in this design sits inside the aft sub-frame and small cylindrical projections (I call them ears) on both sides of the sear ride in tracks molded into the subframe. The trigger bar trips the sear by pushing it slightly aft so the ears clear a notch allowing the sear to drop down to release the striker. But these tracks are not really accessible for polishing and disassembly/reassembly of the aft subframe is fraught with peril.

If the gun is less than 90 days old I'd recommend sending it to Miami for warranty repair; Taurus will pay shipping for 90 days. As for DIY level repair, I would recommend a good washing with Gunscrubber followed by compressed air and a light spray lube (like RemOil). That should dislodge any particles that may be causing trouble. If any parts need to be replaced you are stuck with sending the gun to Taurus. You may be able to get it to smooth out by repeated single-action dry fire.


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

*Scott*, are the contact points between the sear and the striker open to being polished? That might help, if it can be done.

Another possibility might be to introduce a slurry of very fine abrasive compound in oil, into the after end of the sub-frame.
Pull the trigger a lot. Then flush the abrasive slurry out.
Do you think that this might help?


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## Scott9mm (Jul 2, 2012)

Steve M1911A1 said:


> *Scott*, are the contact points between the sear and the striker open to being polished? That might help, if it can be done.
> 
> Another possibility might be to introduce a slurry of very fine abrasive compound in oil, into the after end of the sub-frame.
> Pull the trigger a lot. Then flush the abrasive slurry out.
> Do you think that this might help?


Those contact points are indeed accessible but polishing those vertical surfaces won't effect the trigger much. The trigger bar moves the sear straight aft with no movement between the sear and striker until the sear suddenly drops down, perpendicular to the trigger force.. I should probably make a sketch, it's hard to describe in words.

The slurry may help, assuming you can get it all flushed out at the end.

Trigger bar and striker spring forces on the sear act to increase friction force felt at the trigger while the sear spring reduces this friction. Increasing the sear spring force or reducing the striker spring force would make the trigger lighter. On my 709, bending the sear spring to increase its force did the trick but removing/reinstalling this spring is real easy to screw up.

On some of these guns the trigger bar was almost too short to trip the sear. This was probably the result of an attempt to reduce overtravel, coupled with tolerance stack. Some owners reported the trigger being hard back against the frame and then flexing before the sear tripped.


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Scott9mm said:


> ...I should probably make a sketch, it's hard to describe in words...


You did a very good job of describing it. I can see the relationship easily, from your clear description. Thanks!



Scott9mm said:


> ...On some of these guns the trigger bar was almost too short to trip the sear. This was probably the result of an attempt to reduce overtravel, coupled with tolerance stack. Some owners reported the trigger being hard back against the frame and then flexing before the sear tripped.


I tried-out a Taurus Millennium in a gun shop, once, and it presented me with exactly the problem you describe here.
Thank you for helping me to understand exactly what was happening.


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