# Lee 1000 Pro Press



## tekhead1219

Does anyone have any information regarding this press? I'm burning up a lot of ammunition and looking to get into reloading. I know Dillon is the cadillac, but, a little expensive when compared with the Lee and RCBS. I might move into the Dillon at a later date but would like to start with something easier on the wallet. Any information is welcome. Thanks in advance. :mrgreen:


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## TOF

I have been loading .40S&W, 9MM and .357 with a Lee Pro 1000 for approximately 2 years.

It has produced in excess of 20,000 rounds. I consider it to have been an excellent introduction into loading for me.

It will challenge you on occasion but so will all the others, Dillon included. If you have trouble dealing with mechanisms they will all give you trouble.

At this point I am seriously considering Lee's Loadmaster which has 2 additional stations. It costs a bit more ($60) but not that much more and will handle rifle cartridges. I will still use the Pro 1000 for certain loads.

The extra stations allow bullet seating depth to be set prior to crimping which I prefer.

One outstanding feature in my opinion is the case feeder system used for pistol cartridges. This feature, standard for Pro 1000 or Loadmaster, drasticaly increases productivity.

Given todays ammo prices 1000 to 2000 pistol rounds loaded will pay for your introductory machine be it either the Pro 1000 or Loadmaster.


If you spring for it let us know and we will provide some additional info.

Good luck.

:smt1099


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## tekhead1219

Thanks TOF, that's what I like to hear. Will probably go this route (Lee Pro) due to cost. Wifey says I'm already burning up too much money with this hobby (Hah, if she only knew the whole story). Will be reloading only handgun rounds, 380, 9mm, and .45. $160.00 including shipping sound fair for one caliber? I can get it from Cabela's for that price. Cost more than that on ebay!!


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## TOF

Midway had the best overall price when I bought.

The little red gadget they call a Collator costs $10 extra and is well worth it. You can throw a handfull of cases in it and they will 99 % of the time go right into the input tubes right side up. The 1% is easy to clear as you operate.

Always maximize what you can include in a shipment as later shiping costs will inflate overall cost.

Have fun.

:smt1099


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## mtlmgc

I've been using one for .45LC for 15 years or more, I couldn't begin to tell you how many rounds I've loaded with it. I grew up about 20 mi. from the CCI/Speer/RCBS factory and was always partial to their products(I started with a Partner Press kit) but after using the Pro 1000 the extra money for RCBS presses didn't really seem worth it. The only thing other than good I can say about the 1000 is watch for powder flakes/granuals that some how find their way to the top of the primer pin. I haven't ever had anything bad happen but I always get a little nervous when I see depressions in my primers, the other thing is don't get in a hurry at all, the pess is rated for 500 rounds/hour and will crank out loads of ammo in a short time at even a leisurely pace. The times I did try to go faster just seemed to create problems which in the end slowed me down. I will eventually buy another one for 9mm so I don't have to change between calibers.


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## TOF

Although the Pro 1000 is a progressive that can do all steps in one pass, I break it up. I prefer to size and punch primers then clean in walnut shell or corn cob. I then prime the cases as an individual process. Since there is no powder in the system to spoil the prime process priming goes super fast. I will prime a thousand or so cases then switch over to powder and bullet loading. Walnut shell or corn cob particles removed by the primer punch can migrate into the priming area. Use canned air occasionaly to clear any debri particles from the primer area as that will be 90% of your trouble.

The effective end result is still 500 plus rounds per hour loaded.

The $10 collator is required for this thru-put though.

A little Hornady spray on case lube eases the task of sizing and helps in the speed department.

You do not want to get in a hurry and screw something up but around 500 per hour once you are accustomed to the system is a safe speed IMHO.

Have fun but stay safe. :mrgreen:


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## gmaske

Once you figure out how to set it up right it's a great machine. I'm a bit like TOF in that I pulled the decapping/sizing die and stuck it in an old RCBS Partner press I had. I clean, size, decap, and trim the cases before I load up the Pro 1000. I've only had a few snags with the priming system caused by a flipped primer or powder gumming up the works due to a spill. Blow it out and it's good as new.The Pro 1000 is a fantastic machine for the dollar outlay. Nothing even comes close when it comes down to bag for your buck. If I ever upgrade it will be to the Lee Loadmaster.


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## tekhead1219

TOF said:


> I have been loading .40S&W, 9MM and .357 with a Lee Pro 1000 for approximately 2 years.
> 
> It has produced in excess of 20,000 rounds. I consider it to have been an excellent introduction into loading for me.
> 
> It will challenge you on occasion but so will all the others, Dillon included. If you have trouble dealing with mechanisms they will all give you trouble.
> 
> At this point I am seriously considering Lee's Loadmaster which has 2 additional stations. It costs a bit more ($60) but not that much more and will handle rifle cartridges. I will still use the Pro 1000 for certain loads.
> 
> The extra stations allow bullet seating depth to be set prior to crimping which I prefer.
> 
> One outstanding feature in my opinion is the case feeder system used for pistol cartridges. This feature, standard for Pro 1000 or Loadmaster, drasticaly increases productivity.
> 
> Given todays ammo prices 1000 to 2000 pistol rounds loaded will pay for your introductory machine be it either the Pro 1000 or Loadmaster.
> 
> If you spring for it let us know and we will provide some additional info.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> :smt1099


TOF, went ahead and sprang for the Pro 1000 for the .45 ACP. Also purchased a set of dies for the 9mm. Built a reloading bench from plans I found on the 'net. Now I can use whatever additional advice you can lend. Especially if there are any set up tricks I should be aware of. Thanks again for all your help and advice with this.:smt023


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## bcremer

I will be getting my Lee Pro 1000 in the mail early next week also! I can not wait to get it set up and start to reloading. I will have to keep an eye on this thread to see if anyone provides and tricks of set up in here!


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## TOF

Purchase a tube of graphite powder. Rub some on the elastomer seal at bottom of Powder feed and on the upper surface of the powder cavity disks. This will help break the seal in and reduce powder leakage and also reduce static charge causing powder granules to jump out of the disk.

Always be certain the handle is up, table all the way down, when you set up the powder activating chain. If you don't you will break the chain. Next time at a hardware store purchase 3 feet of the ball chain used to turn lights on plus some spare links. You will ultimately need them.

Use a little light gun oil on the hex rod and ram.
Keep some canned air handy and blow particles off occasionaly.

Ask about other things as you encounter them.

Work your loads up from minimum charge.

Vihtavuori N340 has become my favorite powder for auto pistols.

Have fun


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## tekhead1219

Thanks TOF. Will go out and get me a can of wind before I start. Have got 4 lbs of Bullseye that I ordered and several books listing 9mm and .45acp loads to start with. I'm quite sure that I'll have some questions and appreciate your willingness. Last reloading I did was back in the 70's and that was shotshell for trap shooting. This is my first venture with metallic. Thanks again.:smt023


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## TOF

Lots of people use Bullseye but just remember a little bit goes a long way. The two cases you are talking about can be double charged with ease.

The Pro 1000 used properly will not double charge but I just want to point out that possibility.

Good luck, have fun and stay safe.


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## Redwolf

this is a older post but 1 issue I've had with the lee 1000 is not paying attention and coming up with light loads, we have two set up with 9 amd 38 love the press, large rifle(bigger then 5.56, 7,62x39) we use single stage RCBS, also looking into owning a loadmaster. I use a lee single stage to de-prime, and a hand primer, it does make it very easy to spit out rds as the press dosnt have to work as hard and I get to handle the brass more to find bad ones. 




"Police, at all times, should maintain a relationship with the public that gives reality to the historic tradition that the police are the public and the public are the police; the police being only members of the public who are paid to give full-time attention to duties which are incumbent upon every citizen in the interests of community welfare and existence" JFK


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## TOF

Redwolf said:


> this is a older post but 1 issue I've had with the lee 1000 is not paying attention and coming up with light loads, we have two set up with 9 and 38 love the press, large rifle(bigger then 5.56, 7,62x39) we use single stage RCBS, also looking into owning a loadmaster. I use a lee single stage to de-prime, and a hand primer, it does make it very easy to spit out rds as the press dosnt have to work as hard and I get to handle the brass more to find bad ones.


I am reading this as your lack of attention allowing the powder hopper to run dry as opposed to a machine fault. Is that correct?

I always refill the hopper when the input tubes run out of cases. The tubes hold around 100 9MM or .40 cases which take around 1/8 to 1/4 of a hopper of powder. The only time I had significant variation in powder quantity deposited was when using the optional adjustable cavity. It did not work very well for charges below 4 grains when using Vihtavuori N3xx series powders.

The powder system has worked well for the powders I have used to date which are.
Win 231, Titegroup, Vihtavuori N310 thru N350 plus N105 and N110.

One hint to make life easier is to modify the output chute. As received the primed or loaded cases did not always slide down the chute which required me to clear that area occasionaly. I simply cut away most of the chute and place a container a little farther forward to receive the output.

9MM cases are tapered slightly and require a bit more force to size than straight wall cases like .40 or .45. I find that a light spray of Hornady One Shot case lube makes sizing significantly easier. I place a paper towel in the bottom of a plastic shoe box pour 200 to 300 cases in and give them a couple of quick squirts. You don't have to lube all cases or all the way around the case. One can has lasted thru many thousand rounds.


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## Redwolf

Hum No I did not allow it to run dry but more just failed to drop powder some some reason, could this have been becouse of operator eror sure most things are. if I can make the mistake so can someone else. I think it was just getting a a hurry but every once in a while I'd find a case with low or no powder. and if missed break out the hammer and punch. Do not get me wrong I love my 1000, both of them






"Police, at all times, should maintain a relationship with the public that gives reality to the historic tradition that the police are the public and the public are the police; the police being only members of the public who are paid to give full-time attention to duties which are incumbent upon every citizen in the interests of community welfare and existence" JFK


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## TOF

I have never had that happen in well over 20,000 rounds.

I don't know how you could accidentaly index past the powder station. You could manualy move it forward but should be aware you had interupted the mechanical sequence.

Perhaps it is the type powder you use. I know all powders do not handle the same which is one reason I settled on Vihtavouri as my standard very soon after starting to reload.

Also is the disk moving fully into drop position. I set the chain so the spring always compresses slightly assuring complete travel of the powder transfer disk.

You are correct though we humans do make mistakes on occasion and our machines can fail.


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## JeffWard

tekhead1219 said:


> Thanks TOF. Will go out and get me a can of wind before I start. Have got 4 lbs of Bullseye that I ordered and several books listing 9mm and .45acp loads to start with. I'm quite sure that I'll have some questions and appreciate your willingness. Last reloading I did was back in the 70's and that was shotshell for trap shooting. This is my first venture with metallic. Thanks again.:smt023


tekhead,

What's your 1 month lessons learned?

I'm getting started the day after Christmas... maybe Christmas day... Depends on how long it takes Midway to deliver!!!!!

JeffWard


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## tekhead1219

Hi Jeff, actually I didn't even start the reload process until this past Saturday. To much going on and interfering with my want to's. I can tell you this though, the Lee, after it's set up, is pretty slick. The setup adjustments are quite tedious though (of course, I'm not the most mechanical minded person around). Spent about 4 hours getting everything adjusted and then started only re-priming for a while. Moved on to complete reloads (.45ACP) and, man, this thing can crank them out. Just have to be sure there's plenty of primers in the chute. The primer feeder gets low and they stop going into the station unless you help them out. Haven't gotten the chance to fire some of the reloads yet. Will be doing that Wednesday evening. Only loaded 100 shells until I start firing them to check out for load enhancements. Found out my wife has also purchased a 9mm Lee 1000 Pro for me for Christmas. Cool, now I don't even have to mess with changing dies, shell plate, etc.:mrgreen::smt023


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## JeffWard

how much did it cost you do get set up? periferals and all? can you pm me a list?

thanks!


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## kev74

JeffWard said:


> how much did it cost you do get set up? periferals and all? can you pm me a list?
> 
> thanks!


Or you could post it here for those of us following along at home! :mrgreen:

Was there anything else you needed to get up and running, besides consumables, that wasn't included in the kit?


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## tekhead1219

kev74 said:


> Or you could post it here for those of us following along at home! :mrgreen:
> 
> Was there anything else you needed to get up and running, besides consumables, that wasn't included in the kit?


Bought the Lee 1000 Pro from Ebay at $139.00 + shipping (included .45 ACP dies)
Bought 1 case of 200 grain .45ACP from Montana Gold for approx. $276.00 (2300/case), includes shipping
bought 1 case 115 grain 9mm from same place for approx. $276.00 (4000/case), includes shipping
Not sure of the price of primers and powder, there are 3 of us at the range that are splitting costs. I got small and large primers (3000 ea.) and 4 lbs of powder (Bullseye).
I did buy some .45 and 9mm cases online. Collecting more from range than bought though.
Built the reloading bench (approx. $200.00 for material) from plans on-line.
Bought 2 reloading manuals on-line, forget the cost though.
Bought jewellers scale (electronic) that goes up to 100 grains, included calibration weights, to check powder charge, for approx. $25.00.
Bought digital caliper to check OAL of complete round.
Bought plastic flip top ammo cases for reloads from Midway, 10-.45 and 10-9mm. Cheap from Midway.
Bought 4 die set of Lee 9mm dies for $30.00.
That's all I can remember right now.:smt023
Got some pointers from TOF and away I went.


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## kev74

Nice! Thanks.

Now I have to leave hints for Santa. :mrgreen:


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## clanger

*.44 mag*

Hey gang- I googled the beans outta this but can't find an answer to my question, Lee's line is forever busy, so here goes.......

Re: The final die/station.

Does the 1000 seat AND crimp with a 'factory type', as Lee calls it, roll crimp heavy enough to retain the bullet or will I need a seperate crimping die?

I have a kit coming next week, just getting the ducks in order.

Thanks ya'll!

-kevin.


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## gmaske

Lee dies do either a taper or rolled crimp depending on the cartridge you are loading. If it's a tipical revolver round it's a roll crimp. If it's an auto loader round it will be a taper crimp. Put another way, The die will give you the same crimp as factory ammo.


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## tekhead1219

I have 2 1000 Pro's (.45 ACP and 9mm) and the final seat/crimp die works just fine. You'll have no problems with it. Just my .02.:smt023


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## TOF

The standard crimp dies for 9MM, .40S&W .38SPL and hot 357Mag have all worked well for me. I did purchase Lee's "Factory Crimp" die for each caliber but only used them a couple of times.

As indicated in previous posts, I would purchase Lee's Loadmaster press if starting over as it provides an additional position for use of the "Factory Crimp" die and only costs $60 more than the Pro 1000. That is less than the cost of 2 boxes of most ammo.

Crimping independant of bullet insertion (4th die) is IMHO better but not necessary.

Tekhead, I hope the Ebay purchase was for a new setup. Midway, Natchez and others sell new Lee Pro 1000's, dies included, for the same price you paid.

Have fun guy's. :mrgreen:


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## tekhead1219

TOF...that's correct. It was for new purchase and also included dies. I purchased a 4 die set for the 9mm, before I got the press. Thought I would swap dies to change caliper, but, no where to put the fourth die. It sits collecting dust now since I received a second 1000 Pro in 9mm for Christmas. Thanks for all your input regarding my questions, has been a huge help. Now I can pass some along also.:mrgreen::smt023


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## clanger

Thanks mucho, Gents. 

It was tough just getting the 1000, things are sold out and on backorder w/ no release date all over 'round here. Was lucky to get this one. Agreed the LM is top-drawer. Next time for sure. 

Again- thank you for the info. Much obliged. 

-kevin.


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## ridgerunner

tekhead1219 said:


> Thanks TOF. Will go out and get me a can of wind before I start. Have got 4 lbs of Bullseye that I ordered and several books listing 9mm and .45acp loads to start with. I'm quite sure that I'll have some questions and appreciate your willingness. Last reloading I did was back in the 70's and that was shotshell for trap shooting. This is my first venture with metallic. Thanks again.:smt023


also on the lee wbsite they got videos on the pro 1000 that can help you along the way, i heard the directions is not all that good out of the box.


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## clanger

Well- it's done. Bench is in an up and running. 
The top was made from (2) sheets of 12"x 4'x 3/4" birch ply, screwed and glued together. Then it was banded with poplar strips mitered at 45* then glued on with biscuits. 
Rounded all the corners and edges and sprayed it white with a rattle-can. A bud did the top, I suck at working with wood, better with wrenches.

The brackets were the biggest I could find at the local Home Depot, 11"x 8", then, I lagged it to wall studs and this sucker is rock solid. 
When the next big earthquake hits, I'm getting under it.

I install the de-cap/size die on the first one then attach the feed tubes, send the brass through and punch out the primers and size in one stroke. The spent primers go into a can through a hole in the bench. The cases end up in a little container next to the Lyman trimmer then get trimmed and de-burred then dropped into the tumble that goes outside on the porch. 
This operation goes really smooth and cuts down on handling things over and over.

After a quick tumble, primer pockets get picked and brushed. 
Then they get stored in a box, mouth down, till I'm ready to reload.

When I'm ready to reload I install the primer tray, pop the next turret in (takes literally two seconds) with the flare/charge die/powder hopper, and, the seat die. 
I don't use the crimp feature of the seat die as I do that operation separately. 
I do the cases one at a time, w/o the feed tubes, so I can have a good feel of what is happening and I'm really in no hurry anyways.

Even doing only one case at a time things go pretty quick. The auto-prime has a good feel when the ram goes down and really does a nice job of seating the primers. The measure drops right at or a little under weights, maybe 3/10's/gr max. It can't drop over unless you double stroke the ram or there is a clog that finally dumps (keep it clean kiddies!), which I doubt will happen as it really jerks/drops the hopper when lowering the ram knocking out the powder from the feed hole in the die- you can see into the case with the ram up, through the die- even with the disc projected. I'm actually surprised at the mess it does not make.

Next I install the third turret with a crimp die, insert a round, raise the ram 1" to disengage the ratchet and manually advance the shell plate two stations then crimp. Slick as a whistle.

I never really plan on going full-progressive. 
I like taking my time and doing one round at a time. 
It took me some time to figure it all out and getting it running. 
I practiced on some old cases and some old bullets I had that I don't plan on using (w/o powder and primer) and that helped get it dialed in. 
I was really having issues getting a good roll-crimp on the bullet with the seat/crimp die. I ended up buckling a few cases as I progressed with the crimp, and, it would mush down and deform soft hollow points. I progressed it VERY slowly on the crimp, it would only get so much then buckle and mush the hollow point. The tipping point and balance between seat depth/crimp was too hard to find and feel. Regardless of case length. 
I spent an hour trying the seat/crimp operation, pull bullet, start over w/ another bullet. Just too much going on in one operation. I could get a good, very light crimp w/o mashing the hollow point, and, that's it. 
Light crimp is fine for light target loads, not for hunting stuff with all that recoil, IMHO.

So- since I had an extra seating die, and a third turret, I took the seating portion out of the extra die out and installed the naked die in the third turret and use it as a crimper only and now I can get a firm crimp w/o any issues.

The turrets are 10$ and I'm getting more, and, other shell plates for other pistol calibers.

I produced some nice looking rounds Saturday w/ some good, pre-prepped brass I had processed prior to getting it all set up. 
First loading was with an X-Treme .430" 200gr CP RNFP over 7.0gr of W-231 and a CCI 300 primer.

I have a box of tools and other bits I keep hidden elsewhere with the turrets so when someone comes over the only thing out is the press that's covered and the trimmer that's screwed down to the bench. The brackets also have some arms on them I store the feeder tubes under and they are barely noticeable. It's pretty sano and un-obtrusive and takes up very little room in a corner of my home.

I also keep a small 10lb. dumbbell handy for my bullet puller. A few smacks on the end of the dumbbell and it yanks even heavily crimped stuff in a jiffy. Toss same behind the sofa and ya'd never know it's there.

Thanks for reading guys&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.

-kevin .


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## The_Vigilante

An additional resource for those of you who have purchased or are going to purchase a Lee Pro 1000, Lee Loadmaster, or Lee Turret is http://forums.loadmastervideos.com/forums/index.php?sid=81fd702be7385cd9fa52364a93222844. Lots of good info, friendly shooters, mods, and more videos on how to!!!


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