# Case length?



## FieldGrade (Feb 26, 2019)

I understand the importance of uniform length with straight wall cases but how anal do ya'll get about it.

The reason I ask is I'm getting ready to load my first 44 Special rounds and the new Starlight brass I bought varies in length from 1.148 to 1.150. A two thousandth discrepancy tops. Is that acceptable?

Thanks
Charlie


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

I used to cut my .45 ACP cases to just about the minimum length.
...And then I learned that .45 ACP cases almost never stretch. (Not enough stress.)

So I gave it up, and used them as-is.
(They were bought in bulk as once-fired G.I. cases. All they needed was cleaning.)

My ignorance-based answer to your question starts with: What's the minimum and the maximum allowed case length? OK, so now take an average. And then you could trim to that average.

Rimmed cases, like your .44 Specials, fit into cylinder bores that were not "chambered" for a particular length. So I suggest that you could either make them all the same length, or, if all of your new cases are within the specifications, just leave the length alone.

The only difference length would make is in the way your seater/crimper sets its crimp. I bet that a two-thousandths difference in length wouldn't matter much.

But I could be wrong.


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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

FieldGrade said:


> I understand the importance of uniform length with straight wall cases but how anal do ya'll get about it.
> 
> The reason I ask is I'm getting ready to load my first 44 Special rounds and the new Starlight brass I bought varies in length from 1.148 to 1.150. A two *thousandth discrepancy tops. Is that acceptable?*
> 
> ...


.002" is nothing. 
.002"+/- won't effect the crimp enough to make any real difference.
When brass is beyond the max length spec you should trim it to the _trim too_ length. 
I don't know about the 44 spl but with the 44 Magnum the trim too length is .005" less than the max length. That's still not enough to make any real difference and not easy to detect when setting your crimp.

Sam


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## noylj (Dec 8, 2011)

I don't think you really understand the importance oft trimming cases that already fit the chamber.
For straightwall handgun cases, don't even bother as they simply don't stretch and NEVER need trimming.
For semi-auto handguns that headspace on the case mouth, trimming just increases the head space gap and accuracy drops (in the worst case, the firing pin will just slam the round against the extractor and the round will be pointed quite crooked in the chamber as it hangs on the extractor when it goes off). The cases come to you too short for best accuracy to begin with. If you really like the idea of making your loads more consistently Inaccurate, have fun trimming cases. Heck, a real taper crimp doesn't even have the case mouth TOUCHING the bullet (look at most any factory round for 9mm or .45 Auto).
For straightwall revolver cases that headspace on the rim, I have tried trimming .38 Spl, .357 Mag, and .44 Rem Mag for the mythical "consistent" roll crimp. It did NOT improve accuracy and actually made the trimmed cases shot slightly LARGER groups (not, however, statistically significant to t 90% fiduciary limit using a student t-test). The cannelure/crimp groove on the bullet is longer than the case length variation and there just is NO effect by trimming cases. Best way to improve accuracy is use a Redding Profile Crimp Die for all roll crimping. I like to seat the bullet such that the case mouth is just under the cannelure/crimp groove and then separately I roll crimp.
I found many decades ago that I got better accuracy with seating and crimping as separate operations.
BOTTLENECK cases will stretch after each firing and you must check case length and trim as needed after sizing. You also MUST watch for signs of case separation about ⅜" above the extractor groove of the case by running a straightened long paper clip in an L shape to FEEL for the indentation of approaching case separation. This will often show as a shiny ring around the case body as shown.








I have never had a straight wall case stretch. They shrink. I have been told that .45-70 cases can stretch, but those must be heavy loads.
If you want best accuracy, particularly in 9x19, size cases and then sort by length and save all the longest for when accuracy is critical.
But, if CONSISTENCY is all you live for, go trim cases to your heart's content.


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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

My experience concerning the need to trim straight wall cases differs from what noylj has found.
When loading max 357 and 44 magnum loads I've found that on average about six or so, out of 100, will need to be trimmed after a few reloads.
Best I can remember I've only found one brass case for an auto-loader that was beyond max length.
Those seem to start out short and stay short no matter how many times you load them. 

Sam


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## rustygun (Apr 8, 2013)

I like to crimp in a separate operation. The Lee 4 die sets are nice. they have a factory crimp die and length of case is not critical.


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## noylj (Dec 8, 2011)

SamBond: Did you actually find they grew?
I have NOT found that true after over 45 years of loading .44 Rem Mag, but we all have different experieances.


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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

noylj said:


> SamBond: *Did you actually find they grew?*
> I have NOT found that true after over 45 years of loading .44 Rem Mag, but we all have different experieances.


Yes, but I've only been reloading 357 and 44 magnums for about 39 years now so....

Sam


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## SamBond (Aug 30, 2016)

So I just worked 100 Win 357 cases to be used for my newly worked out heavy bullet hog hunting load.
This brass has been reloaded four times.
The four previous reloads were maximum loads using H110 powder with the 125 gr JHP Sierra bullet.

THIRTY FIVE of the 100 needed to be trimmed. 

That's a good bit more than what usually need to be trimmed. None were more than about .002"~.004" beyond the SAMMI max length spec but beyond max length is beyond max length.
The 125 gr / H110 loads were maximum loads, NOT overloads. 
I work out my loads by measuring case expansion, observing the way the brass expands, monitoring velocity and studying primer condition. (Although primer condition is not a reliable indicator of pressure).
I have never had hard extraction when working out loads this way, not once.

Come to think of it, I regularly find once fired brass (from factory loads) that need to be trimmed after firing them in any one of my quality 357 revolvers...


Sam


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