# ~New to 1911's~



## 308sc (Apr 4, 2008)

So I want to get my first 1911, but im not in the loop concerning 1911 manufacturers. So what would you guys suggest for a first 1911? I mainly want *accuracy* and reliability. I really don't want to spend over $600, but *I will* if it will get me a better 1911 that will last longer! I own .357 MAG, 9mm, and 22LR, but I think after shooting a friends ...the 1911 bug has bit me


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## submoa (Dec 16, 2007)

Welcome to the addiction.

FWIW, here's my opinion when selecting a 1911. There are 2 key features that were introduced by lawyers and accountants respectively that will ruin a 1911: Firing Pin Block and MIM parts.

*Firing Pin Block (FPB)*

A solution in search of a problem.

Colt Series 80 uses two little levers that are moved by motion of the trigger that lifts the block from the firing pin in the slide. This adds mush to the trigger pull. Avoid Colt, Para Ordnance, SIG and Taurus that have these.

Swartz Safety doesn't mess with the trigger but uses the grip safety to push a plunger that lifts the block from the firing pin in the slide. However, 1911s with Swartz will not fire if the timing is out, the grip safety not perfectly aligned or if components have been sheared while trying to remove the slide with the grip safety depressed. Avoid Kimber Series II and Smith and Wesson that have these.​
*MIM (metal injection molding) Parts*

In the MIM process, a mold is made from steel. Then powdered metal is mixed with a plastic binder. This mixture is then injected into the mold under heat and high pressure to form the part. Voids are formed in the manufacturing process and result in a weaker product than cast or billet (bar stock).

Most manufacturers use MIM parts since production is a single step process producing a finshed part without the additional steps of machining or forging. And part to part variances are small allowing for a tighter fit of the finished product. Guns that contain no MIM parts are considerably more expensive and one of the differences between a $500 1911 and one costing thousands.

MIM parts are shunned because they can "break" without warning. Not something you want to have happen in a weapon that you depend on in a "Life or Death" situation.​Premium 1911s with no MIM include Ed Brown, Les Baer, Wilson, Nighthawk, Valtro

*The Short List of Affordable 1911s (< $1,000, no FPB, No MIM)*

Pre-1970 1911A1
Dan Wesson
Norinco​
Some 1911s have minmal MIM parts that could be swapped out with aftermarket (ie. Ed Brown) and are still affordable ie. STI, Springfield.

BTW recently discovered no MIM internals on SA XD, all billet!!!


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

Get yourself a Springfield Mil-Spec and enjoy it:smt023. You can add the other stuff as you have the want to or cash. It's a good basic 1911 to start with and will not break your bank.:smt033http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?model=7


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## kansas45 (May 20, 2006)

Check out the STI Sparten for around $600.00. Or the Taurus PT1911 or my favorite, RIA in the $400.00 range. It's hard to beat a good Springfield GI. I had one for many years & compleatly wore it out. I could have rebuilt it, but opted to sell it to one of my friends who was deeply in love with it. The thng is, there are several good 1911's in your price range. Just buy the one that YOU like. But, by all means....................buy one!


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## JeffWard (Aug 24, 2007)

Found a "Black Stainless" Springfield Mil Spec, Like new-in-box, full paperwork everything... Two sets of grips, tritium front sight, Heine Rear... $650 cash price.

But my money is elsewhere this month...

Damn...


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## Richard (May 8, 2006)

My advice will not be that of others. What is it? Buy a basic model such as a Rock Island Armory or Springfield MilSpec. Then buy a bunch of ammo and shoot it a lot. This will allow you time to learn the 1911's manual of arms and what items you want/need to change. I am what is called a minimalist and that means I do not need a lot do-dads on my 1911s. A photo of my Milspec is attached and I can live happily with a 1911 like it. Please note that the hammer has been bobbed and I put new grips on it. Regards, Richard


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