# High Standard Double Nine .22 Revolver problem.



## strangebrew (Feb 18, 2016)

Greetings all. The problem I'm having with this gun is that after its been fired for a short while (less than 36 rounds) the hammer starts to stick about midway as I'm pulling it back. (It's a double action, but I only shoot it single action.) If I fiddle with it a bit, I can eventually get the hammer pulled back. It will then periodically happen every 18 or so rounds. The strange thing is that I can manually cycle an empty cylinder any number of times without the hammer sticking. I've tried many different brands of ammo in it, but the problem always occurs. I clean the gun every time I shoot it and keep it well lubed. Any ideas as to what is causing this??


----------



## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

If you grab the cylinder, with the gun uncocked (and, of course, completely empty), can you slide it back and forth a little, front to back?
My bet is that you can. I further bet that, if you can, then this is the cause of your problem.

If you can move the cylinder forward and back a little, this is called "end shake," and it is a, um, feature of many inexpensive revolvers.
This looseness permits the case of a fired cartridge to "set back" against the frame of the gun (it's called the "recoil shield").
This set-back fired case then drags against the recoil shield as you try to cock the hammer, and the hammer's "hand" tries to revolve the cylinder.
As you fire another cartridge, it, too, sets-back, making the friction worse.

If you do not have a gun with end-shake, then it is possible that one or more of the cylinder's chambers is cut slightly oversize in diameter. It's another "feature."
This, too, will allow a fired case to set back, giving you the same effect. If another chamber is also oversize, the friction will increase when the cartridge in it is fired.
Check for this effect by carefully noting exactly which chamber begins causing the friction when it's fired, and if any other chamber adds to it. (Mark the offending chamber—or chambers—with indelible marker as you find it or them. See if the phenomenon repeats for the next cylinder-full.)

Or, the problem may be a combination of the two effects I've listed here.
Or something else.


----------



## Bisley (Aug 24, 2008)

Another possibility (similar in effect to Steve's) could be a failure to knock out the carbon ring in the nine chambers, when cleaning the cylinder - especially if you have been shooting shorts or longs (rather than long rifle cartridges). The carbon ring, if it has not been cleaned properly (fairly common in the 1960's when your gun was likely built) will gradually force LR ammo back against the frame, making it harder to rotate the cylinder.

I shot .357 revolvers for years, before learning that the carbon/lead ring had to be smoothed out - just thought it was normal wear.


----------



## AZdave (Oct 23, 2015)

Bisley said:


> I shot .357 revolvers for years, before learning that the carbon/lead ring had to be smoothed out - just thought it was normal wear.


I have a Ruger .357 with this problem. I'll check the carbon ring and end-shake before I go to the range next time.


----------



## strangebrew (Feb 18, 2016)

Steve M1911A1 said:


> If you grab the cylinder, with the gun uncocked (and, of course, completely empty), can you slide it back and forth a little, front to back?
> My bet is that you can. I further bet that, if you can, then this is the cause of your problem.
> 
> If you can move the cylinder forward and back a little, this is called "end shake,"


Surprisingly, there isn't any back and forth movement. I'm going back to the range tomorrow, and I'll examine the spent cartridges to see if there's any abnormal distortion around the cartridge edge where the primer struck. This is something new, so I wouldn't think it's oversized cylinder chambers.


----------



## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

...Then I suggest that *Bisley* is on the right track.
Look inside each chamber, in bright light, for a ring of stuck-on dirt.


----------

