# More Questions, AGAIN.



## fusil (Sep 23, 2008)

Hi guy’s,
Well the last bits of my reloading kit were delivered today. So this weekend I’ll be setting it up and having a go. 
I still have a few questions and know you all can help. I’ve read the Lee Reloading Manual, The ABC’s of Reloading and the Vectan powder info sheet.

I would like to know…..
How do you know you’ve got the correct flare of the neck?
How do you know what is the correct amount of crimp?

I’ll be loading 38spl, 148g wad cutters.

Many thanks for any advice.:smt023
fusil


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

fusil said:


> How do you know you've got the correct flare of the neck?
> How do you know what is the correct amount of crimp?


The correct neck flare is one that lets you barely start the bullet, and doesn't shave any lead off of the bullet's base, but doesn't actually look as if it's flared.
Avoid anything that reminds you of a trumpet.

The idea is to "work" the brass as little as possible. Brass gets harder, every time it is flexed (which is the exact opposite of steel). Finally, you notice the occasional little crack forming in a case mouth or two, and you know that you either have to start throwing these cases away, or you have to anneal them (which is a job best avoided).

The correct amount of crimp depends upon whether you're using a taper crimp or a "roll" crimp.
You can't taper-crimp too much, because the die's overall length and internal taper limits you.
The correct roll crimp is that which presses the edge of the case mouth into the bullet's crimp-groove just enough to securely retain it, and to keep the bullet from moving either in or out under inertial forces.
Once again, try to "work" the brass as little as possible.
It is best not to roll-crimp into a bullet groove that _purposely_ (rather than accidentally) has lubricant in it. Usually, a bullet designed for use in either a revolver or a lever-action rifle will have a specific crimp groove, placed well above, and shaped differently from, all the other grooves. (Lubricant grooves are flat-bottomed, crimp grooves are wedge shaped in cross-section.)


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

Steve's advice is, as usual, spot-on.

I'll add some wadcutter-specific experience I've obtained over the years. Depending on the bullet, sometimes a wadcutter benefits from a tiny bit more case flare than normal, as they have such a long bearing surface that it's very easy to scratch/gouge them during seating. Still, you want to avoid flaring the case any more than is absolutely necessary to get the bullet seated without damage.

Most swaged-lead full wadcutter bullets are designed to seat with the nose of the bullet just barely sticking out of the case; call it flush, or nearly flush. If you can find a photo of a factory .38 wadcutter round, that will be a good guide (I'll Google around for one in just a minute). Other (usually cast lead) wadcutters actually have a crimping groove; so, if they have a groove, use it, otherwise, seat nearly flush and use a light-to-moderate crimp. If you crimp too hard, it will deform the bullet and accuracy will suffer, so experimenting with your exact bullet (light crimp, then a little more, etc.) will yield the best results. As with all crimping, case length is critical; too long, and the case folds or you get too heavy a crimp, too short and you get little or no crimp at all. If the cases are brand new (never fired), then a light deburring of the case mouth will help minimize damage later during bullet seating. If I deburr, I do it before flaring; others might reverse these steps.

Edited to add photo links:

Cast DEWC (double-ended wadcutter) bullet only:
http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/images/wadcutter-bullet-web.jpg
Federal Match Wadcutter .38 ammo (REALLY good stuff!):
http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/staticpages/highres/235724.jpg
Misc:
http://capnbob.us/blog/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/wadcutters.jpg
http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/staticpages/highres/453406.jpg


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