# SD9VE trigger



## tresi (Nov 26, 2016)

I'm considering doing some trigger work to my gun. My question is is the Apex spring kit alone or does it need the replacement trigger as well in order to make a noticeable reduction in trigger pull? I'm only worried about the weight of the pull I can deal with the travel and reset. Would sending the gun back to S&W give me better results? Any good options I'm missing?


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## Bisley (Aug 24, 2008)

I cannot comment on the upgrades for this particular model.

I can say, though, that I used an Apex straight trigger kit, and an Apex sear kit to make my 9mm S&W Shield a great shooter. In my case, the straight trigger was a major improvement, because it moved the trigger 'break' and reset forward, which cured the main problem I have had with most sub=sompacts (except for the XDs). The only Sigma I have fired had a terrible trigger, so I likely would have installed both Apex kits in it, had it been mine.

That's all I've got. Maybe someone else can be more helpful.


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## osbornk (Jan 31, 2015)

I considered working on the trigger on mine when I got it a couple of years ago. However, after several hundred rounds (600-700), it has improved or I have gotten used to it. I don't plan on making any changes to it now.


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## Craigh (Jul 29, 2016)

tresi said:


> I'm considering doing some trigger work to my gun. My question is is the Apex spring kit alone or does it need the replacement trigger as well in order to make a noticeable reduction in trigger pull? I'm only worried about the weight of the pull I can deal with the travel and reset. Would sending the gun back to S&W give me better results? Any good options I'm missing?


Many have reported the SD9VE having a fairly long break-in period. I wouldn't know, but if it were mine, I'd run around 50 rounds through it then do and very thorough cleaning which includes a good solvent separate step from lubricating. I'd put a light film of good gun grease (I use RIG) on the rails and the outside of the barrel. I'd put a couple of drops of good quality oil on the trigger bar and internals. I use Mobile 1 auto oil. I'd put another couple of hundred or so rounds through it to finish the break-in, then, after cleaning, check to see if your problem is solved. I'm betting it will be.

I'm not suggesting this, but you can also do a full break-down and lightly polish moving parts as well as the slide and rails. I use Flitz and jeweler's rouge with a soft cloth rag or patch. Stay away from the sear and well as the part which engages it. Removing metal there could ruin your day unless you're a gunsmith. A light hand polishing shouldn't be removing metal anyway. I sometimes use my Dremel, but am very gentle with it.

Another thing I do on a new handgun is to put it in my nightstand empty in an oven mitt so I'd not grab it instead of my defensive gun in an emergency. Then, every morning and evening when I'm getting out or into bed, I sit down, pull out the new gun, rack the slide several times, and dry fire it before my prayers. I often get up during the night (I'm on powerful water pills) and rack it a few times then dry fire it too. The reason for that oven mitt is that it makes a good nightstand holster, but more importantly, it can make it easier to rack the slide a bunch of times for these tired arthritic hands with a new pistol. In short order, that mitt is no longer needed. You'd be amazed on how much this helps. I don't think it is as good as pumping live ammo through it, but it does contribute and is a whole lot cheaper. It speeds up break-in as well.

I know many will disagree, but I do not use one stop combination solvent, penetration, and lubrication products like WD40, Ballistol or any of the rest of them. Gun powder residue needs a good solvent, clean and dry, then good lubrication and rust prevention. A new gun often has a lot of factory grit and grime in it and a good solvent is needed.

The above is purely my personal opinion and should be seen as such. YMMV


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## tresi (Nov 26, 2016)

an update: The gun has 200 rds through it, hasn't changed the trigger. I sent it back to S&W to see what they will do. If 1 guy sens his back they'll just think he's a crazy old coot. If 100 people send theirs back they'll wonder what's up. If 1000 people send theirs back maybe they will start putting decent trigger in them.


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## Philco (Apr 17, 2012)

Please keep us updated on this gun.


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## osbornk (Jan 31, 2015)

tresi said:


> an update: The gun has 200 rds through it, hasn't changed the trigger. I sent it back to S&W to see what they will do. If 1 guy sens his back they'll just think he's a crazy old coot. If 100 people send theirs back they'll wonder what's up. If 1000 people send theirs back maybe they will start putting decent trigger in them.


200 rounds is not even broken in. My Ria says 500 minimum (but it has been great since shot 1).


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## tresi (Nov 26, 2016)

Got my pistol back from S&W today. The trigger seemed to be significantly lighter, same long pull but I can deal with that. I'm not out to set any speed shooting record. In hindsight I should have had the pull measured before I sent it off. I just unboxed it and haven't put any rounds though it yet but it feel like something I can deal with now. They did not say what they did. Sometimes it pays to complain.


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## MSpivey (Jan 22, 2018)

Hi all! I just purchased my first S&W handgun, a SD9VE.
My question is... 
Does anyone know if someone makes a trigger bar with a tighter channel to reduce the slop in the trigger?
(yes, I know polishing the metal, installing the APEX trigger, and the Apex kit or the Galloway Precision kit would improve the smoothness, pull weight, break, and reset but it doesn't fix the slop)


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## AllenFromPa (Dec 4, 2017)

What do you mean by slop? I have 2 sdve models the 9 and 40 i do not notice any slop.


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## MSpivey (Jan 22, 2018)

AllenFromPa said:


> What do you mean by slop? I have 2 sdve models the 9 and 40 i do not notice any slop.


The amount of travel before encountering a somewhat consistent trigger pull resistance/weight. I may need to send it to S&W.


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## AllenFromPa (Dec 4, 2017)

Ahh ok mine has some lighter pull till it feels tighter when cocked. When it's not cocked it feels the same all the way through range of travel.


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## MSpivey (Jan 22, 2018)

Well, yesterday was the day I got to spend "quality time" with the SD9VE. Complete breakdown and cleaning everything with isopropyl alcohol followed with blow drying. Next I put the complete surround rubber grip on the handle followed by heating with a heat gun and thoroughly pressing into place. Next was the replacement of the breakdown lever with an extended one from Gallaway Precision. With the easy part done I proceeded with working on the rest. First was polishing all metal surfaces that would contact/slide against others, that were accessable, with a Dremel, buffing wheel, and diamond dust Jeweler's Compound or with 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper wet with isopropyl alcohol. All newparts were also gone over to make sure they were smooth. Before assembly, all parts were cleaned again with isopropyl alcohol and dried. New trigger and springs (five including the SS Guide Spring) were installed along with a new silver engraved slide back plate. Next was the liberal application of Silicone Spray followed with blowing off the excess. Next was the application and working in of extra fine graphite. Excess graphite was also blown off. Final thing to do was removal of the stock sights and installation of the new high visability sights, which ended up being the most difficult of everything. I wish I had a trigger pull weight scale. I'm confident the trigger pull weight was at least reduced by 50%, to four pounds or less, not to mention how super smooth the operation is. I can hardly wait to get to the range with it! I have two SS Guide Springs, one at 18 pounds (closest to factory) and one at 20 pounds. Range results (following setting windage and elevation of the new sights) will be posted later.


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## MSpivey (Jan 22, 2018)

Parts replaced and finished gun (Pics attached).


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## Blackhawkman (Apr 9, 2014)

Try looking at Ghost trigger bars for your model!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MSpivey (Jan 22, 2018)

Blackhawkman said:


> Try looking at Ghost trigger bars for your model!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Went to the Site and searched... no joy. Thanks for the tip!

I've actually sent a message to APEX in hopes they may see the opportunity and be the first out with it.


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## MSpivey (Jan 22, 2018)

Update: Apex Tactical Polymer Action Enhancement Trigger, Apex Tactical Spring Kit, Galloway Lighter Sear Spring, Galloway Maritime Spring Cups, Galloway Wide Body Takedown Plate, NDZ Silver Rear Slide Plate, NDZ 20 pound Stainless Steel Guide Rod Assembly (18 lb. one in my range bag), GripOn Textured Rubber Full Grip Wrap, and WILLIAMS FIRE SIGHT SET S&W SD9/SD40 FIBER OPTIC Red Front & Adj. Green Rear Sights - 70995 are installed and all accessable metal surfaces making contact with (rubbing against) other surfaces polished to a mirror finish with Diamond Lapping Paste Polishing Compound. 2,000 grit wet sand of the slide channels, polishing and installation of the "improvement" parts took about six hours.

I still plan to purchase an ArmaLaser GTO Red Laser and FLX03 Grip Switch for it next week. Right now I'm sitting at having close to $450 total into it (including holster, extra two magazines, and extra dual magazine holder but not including my time). You are probably wondering how that's possible... I got the SD9VE (NIB) for an amazingly low price and I did a lot of best price shopping for all of the other things.

I went to the Range this past Saturday to sight it in and get acquainted with it. Sights were initially set with a barrel laser and bench rest then refinement adjusted with TulAmmo 115 Grain FMJ live target fire (30 rounds, six groups of five). Then it was time for the test. At 15 feet I shot a five shot grouping (just slightly left of bullseye center) of 1.5 inches. At 25 feet I shot a five shot grouping (just slightly high and left of bullseye center) of 2 inches. At 30 feet I shot a five shot grouping (just a little more high and left of the bullseye, three rounds in the edge of the bullseye) of 3 inches. Then I switched Ammo to my 150 Grain copper jacketed hollow points and had the same result at 50 feet except only one round was in the edge of the bullseye. I'm not a regular shooter or deal with guns on a regular basis. Actually, until Saturday, it had been 12 years since I had shot any type of firearm. During this limited firing (50 rounds total) there were no FTLs or FTEs.

I'm very pleased with the SD9VE! Other than the approximately 1/8 inch take-up when you first start the trigger pull, I wouldn't have it any different (other than maybe an ever so slight additional sight adjustment).

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## AZdave (Oct 23, 2015)

@MSpivey Question.

Did the gun or kit come with the neat little cross on the back in 3rd picture?
It is neat looking.


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## MSpivey (Jan 22, 2018)

AZdave said:


> @MSpivey Question.
> 
> Did the gun or kit come with the neat little cross on the back in 3rd picture?
> It is neat looking.


Ordered separately (on order with SS Guide Rod Spring) from NDZ. They have a HUGE selection!

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## Bisley (Aug 24, 2008)

It might have been just as cheap to buy a standard M&P and just upgrade the trigger with an Apex trigger and sear kit. I did this with my Shield, and it made it nearly perfect (for me). I understand that this works well for the full sized M&P, as well.


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