# cant get empty shells out



## wibowhunt (Jun 15, 2008)

A friend of mine gave me some semi wad cutters for practice shooting. They are hand loads and he has been handloading for ever and know more about it than the internet. Anyway I shot them today and I cant get the emptys out of the cylinder. The gun functioned fine and they didnt seem to kick any harder than other stuff I shoot. What could this be or why? He is on vaction for a week so I cant ask him. Ruger gp-100 4 inch barrel 357 158 grain semi wad cutters.


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## DevilsJohnson (Oct 21, 2007)

Sounds like the Cases swelled due to over use or maybe a little hot or both.


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

Use a piece of wood dowell (1/4 inch will work) and drive them out of the cylinder.

If you have been firing .38 specials you will have generated a carbon ring in the cylinder where the .38 case ends. If you then fire .357 Mag cases without first cleaning/removing the ring, the longer case will fire form around the ring locking itself in place.

I am betting this is your problem. If not let us know what it is.

After you drive the cases out clean the cylinder till it is squeeky clean and repeat the process often.

tumbleweed


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

TOF said:


> Use a piece of wood dowell (1/4 inch will work) and drive them out of the cylinder.
> 
> If you have been firing .38 specials you will have generated a carbon ring in the cylinder where the .38 case ends. If you then fire .357 Mag cases without first cleaning/removing the ring, the longer case will fire form around the ring locking itself in place.
> 
> ...


I think TOF hit the nail squarely on the head with his response (as usual).

The only thing I'd add, is to use a brand new bore brush when cleaning the chambers so it's a snug fit during the cleaning process. Heck, I've been known to go up one caliber in brush size if I have a problem with really filthy lead- or carbon-gunked revolver chambers, using a .40 for a .38 or .357, .41 for a .40, .45 for my .44 mag, etc. It ruins the brush (you pretty much only get one use out of it), but it really gets the lead out.

Don't do this in a rifle, though; you can get even a slightly over-sized brush firmly wedged in the tight confines of a rifle barrel, and you just wouldn't believe how tight it can get stuck...


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Brownell's sells an even better cleaner-outer.
It's called the _Lewis Lead Remover_. It really works!
It's a (replaceable) patch of closely-woven brass screen wrapped over an expanding rubber plug. You adjust the rubber plug until the brass-screen patch is a very tight fit in the chamber (or bore), and then you pull it through. And repeat. Very quickly, leading and any other fouling just disappears.
I've used one for years, removing leading from 1911 barrels.
I think there's nothing better.


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

Steve M1911A1 said:


> Brownell's sells an even better cleaner-outer.
> It's called the _Lewis Lead Remover_. It really works!
> It's a (replaceable) patch of closely-woven brass screen wrapped over an expanding rubber plug. You adjust the rubber plug until the brass-screen patch is a very tight fit in the chamber (or bore), and then you pull it through. And repeat. Very quickly, leading and any other fouling just disappears.
> I've used one for years, removing leading from 1911 barrels.
> I think there's nothing better.


I have used the Lewis system for lead but the carbon deposits are going to be quite a bit harder and may or may not come out easily.

The Lewis system is around $25 to $30 per caliber plus freight, so some penetrating solvent would be a bit less expensive for what I would hope was a one time deal. I expect more frequent cleaning will prevent severe build up in the future.

I quit using .38 brass in my GP because of that nonsense and only load .357 Mag cases now.

If the OP has a drill press, I reccomend removing the cylinder, insert a .40 cal bronze brush in the press and in conjunction with a good solvent and on low speed clean things up.

Put the cylinder in a cup of penetrating solvent and let it set over night before trying anything.

Good luck

tumbleweed

PS: Thanks DJ, I feel the same about your posts.


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

TOF said:


> ...If the OP has a drill press, I reccomend removing the cylinder, insert a .40 cal bronze brush in the press and in conjunction with a good solvent and on low speed clean things up...


Now that's an excellent suggestion!


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## clanger (Jan 27, 2009)

Careful using a drill around solvents.... fire hazard. 

I use a pick to remove the carbon rings from my .357 chambers when (not if) they foul from .38's. 

Take 5 mins. to pick most of it out and then a dry brush makes it good to go. The dry carbon fouling comes out easiest when dry picked, I've found. 
Gooey or softer stuff is solvent solved. 

YMMV.


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