# G26 Factory recoil spring weight?



## jcsandals

Hello,

I just got a gen3 G26 and a gen3 G19. I really want to upgrade the recoil spring/guide rod on both to a SS or tungsten one, but I do not know which weight to get. 

I think that the factory spring for the G26 is 14lbs?

Should I get a slightly heavier spring for self defense loads?

If I get a spring thats a couple pounds heavier will I still be able to fire standard range ammo (Winchester white box type thing)?

I'm sure that all of these questions are answered somewhere, but a simple search gave me an overwhelming number of posts as results. If anyone has any info on this topic I'd appreciate a quick learning if you've got time. Thanks, take care.


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## jcsandals

Ok, I think that I have found out the factory spring weight; 16 lbs.

Here is the link where I found the info: Springs for GLOCK Semi-Auto Pistols

It lists the Wolf reduced power (14lbs), factory standard (16), and extra power (in various weights).

I do still have my curiosities about heavier recoil springs and standard range ammo. If I got an 18 lb recoil spring/guide assembly do you think 115gr range ammo would still function well in it? Or should I stick to the factory weight of 16 lbs?

So many questions...


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## Cat

This is why glock as there own site,For there pistols. For me,I never use after market parts. But thats me.

www.glockmeister.com

http://glockstore.com/


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## denner

I don't know how Glocks run with heavier recoil springs, but my 92 runs 100% with Wolff 14pd springs, 13pd being the factory weight. I wouldn't go above 2 pound's from factory unless using hot, hot ammo. You need to experiment. I use the 14pd to reduce the impact on the 92's aluminum frame. With Glock that's not a problem, so, unless you are trying to reduce recoil a little, or are shooting hot, hot ammo, I don't see the point especiallly at the risk of reliability.


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## jcsandals

denner said:


> I don't see the point especiallly at the risk of reliability.


Right, I guess I should have explained a little bit more. I have never been a fan of plastic recoil spring guide rods and in my G26 the guide is so cheap looking/fitting that I don't even want to fire that thing til I get a better spring in it. When you put it together the guide rod has a metal butt that seats against the barrel (like most auto pistols). Now it seats in there really nice until you rack the slide once or twice. Then if you take apart the slide you can see that the guide rod is no longer seated completely flush and it looks like the only thing thats keeping it from coming off is the plastic frame. There is a ring on the frame right where the back-plate of the guide rod goes that looks like its been cut into by the butt-plate of the guide rod. When you put the guide rod in the base-plate angles since its just basically pop-riveted and is so thin and flimsy.

I know it should shoot fine, but its such a cheap part that I don't feel comfortable doing so. That's the main reason for upgrading the spring/rod. I'll try and get a picture up to clarify what I'm trying to explain.


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## rgrundy

The aftermarket stuff I've used is high quality and works well. The nice thing about the heavier guide rods is that they make the pistol point better for me and are heavy enough to help with recoil. I'd stay with the factory spring weights unless I was using reduced handloads. I have a lighter spring in one of mine for "girl" loads to practice with and shoot minor 40 loads. Sixteen pounds is the factory weight. It should work fine with the plastic one provided though.


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## SMann

jcsandals said:


> I really want to upgrade the recoil spring/guide rod on both to a SS or tungsten one


Why? What are you trying to accomplish?


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## postmaster

When people shoot thousands of rounds through stock glocks with no problems, why mess with success. The recoil spring can only be seen when disassembled. However given glocks strengths put any kind you want in there. It will work.


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## SMann

The guide rod only rests against the notch in the barrel during assembly. The fact that it isn't perfectly in the half moon notch when you take it back apart means nothing. The notch is only there to position and hold the rod and spring until reassembly. After that it rests against the frame. You are concerned about a problem that doesn't exist. However, replace it if you want so you can see the new one do the same thing.


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## jcsandals

SMann said:


> The guide rod only rests against the notch in the barrel during assembly. The fact that it isn't perfectly in the half moon notch when you take it back apart means nothing. The notch is only there to position and hold the rod and spring until reassembly. After that it rests against the frame. You are concerned about a problem that doesn't exist. However, replace it if you want so you can see the new one do the same thing.


I did read that after my initial post, but I went ahead and ordered a tungsten guide rod anyway. Like you said it does sit a bit above the half moon seat. It just makes me feel better to have the metal guide rod. I'm not saying it wouldn't function fine with the stock one, this just makes me feel more comfortable. Maybe itll cause more malfunctions, but none so far. Thanks for the replies everybody.


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## SMann

You might consider replacing the junk, stock plastic sights. The stock ones are considered by many to be slot fillers. Sights made of steel are easily found. They will be more durable, less likely to get knocked off by a slight bump and you can find three dots, night sights or pretty much whatever you want. Good investment in my opinion. Welcome to the forum and very nice choice of pistols.:smt023


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## Cashopteacher

On a relalited note. I'm thinking about getting a new spring set from brownelles for my Ruger P90. I am the second owner of the gun and have no clue how the first owner treated the gun or how many rounds have gone through it. The kit comes with a factory recoil spring. Higher powered then stock firing pin spring and a lower powered then stock hammer spring. What could this potentaly do to better or hurt the performance of my pistol. 

Thanks for the help.


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## SMann

I generally believe in using the same kind of parts the manufacturer built the gun with unless there is a specific reason to change something. Like crappy stock sights or a part that has developed a reputation for failing. You might get a more Ruger P90 specific response in the Ruger sub-forum.


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## Cashopteacher

SMann said:


> I generally believe in using the same kind of parts the manufacturer built the gun with unless there is a specific reason to change something. Like crappy stock sights or a part that has developed a reputation for failing. You might get a more Ruger P90 specific response in the Ruger sub-forum.


I'm just looking for basic information on springs and I figured this thread was giving the most information on that topic. I am having some recoil issues and figured I could get a general answer.


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## jcsandals

SMann said:


> You might consider replacing the junk, stock plastic sights. The stock ones are considered by many to be slot fillers. Sights made of steel are easily found. They will be more durable, less likely to get knocked off by a slight bump and you can find three dots, night sights or pretty much whatever you want. Good investment in my opinion. Welcome to the forum and very nice choice of pistols.:smt023


Thank you for the welcome! I do want to replace those the sights soon as well. Plastic sights don't sit too awful well with me either, so that will be the next purchase for my firearm obsession I mean collection... :anim_lol:


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