# Getting into reloading



## stevexd9 (May 10, 2007)

I've took the first steps to start reloading. I bought the book "the abc's of reloading" and so far it doesn't seem too difficult (I am sure there is a lot more to learn and better techniques etc...) but for the basics it seems doable 

I am looking at getting the Dillon 1050. Do you think that's overkill? I find that I am the type of person that starts with a smaller system and I immediately go and upgrade which costs me even more money. So now I just start big, but I was wondering if there was anything that does the same thing for a bit cheaper.

Also when I was reading I see that they were using the scale ever time to weigh the power. If you have a powder measure system do you have to keep on checking to make sure that it's correct? I assume you have to calibrate the powder measure before each use?

Thanks for any help
Steve…


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

Well you started out right with the book. I would recommend a couple more for cross reference. The Dillon line is a great place to start and you bought the Cadillac of the fleet. It is a little more involved but it's not rocket science. I learned on a progreesive press so I would say anybody can. If you can read and comprehend what you are doing, you will be OK. Just go slow at first and don't worry about how many rounds you are making. Quality beats quanity in reloading. Think safty at all times.
No you do not have to check every round for powder. At start up I check every round till I get my measure set. Once set after about six consistent rounds I am ready. Then I check about every 25rds or so to make sure everything is working as it is suppose to. Don't worry about rounds per hour as that is all sales hype. Go slow and steady and you will be OK. Good luck.


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## stevexd9 (May 10, 2007)

Thank you for the info. I still have a lot of reading to do and I really won't be set until I read at least one more book so I can have an unbias idea about reloading. I am still a bit nervous, but I hope to be reloading my October or November.  I won't be able to in September, because we have a baby on the way so I'm sure I will not have any time


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## JJB (Dec 27, 2006)

i reload my own ammo so it can't be that hard..... there's lots of information on the different forums and such right here on the computer..... if you get stuck on something just ask......


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## Wandering Man (Jul 9, 2006)

The 1050 may be a bit of overkill, unless you are really going to be manufacturing and shooting a lot.

Check out this link:

http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillon.html

I may be biased, I am a new owner the 650, and love it. I don't own the casefeeder that goes with it, and I do not see myself buying one, at least for a while.

The 650 is pretty easy to stop and check things as you go along, so you don't end up producing a bunch of rounds without primers, with primers not fully seated, or ammo with no powder. Like Baldy says, I like to stop and check things every 25 rounds or so.

Your reloading manual is likely describing how to reload on a single stage press.

I still have a lot to learn ...

Here's another link to check out: http://forums.handloads.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14840&PN=4

WM


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## jfdavis58 (Jul 10, 2007)

I've got a dozen years experience with a 550-four calibers. You don't give enough info to allow us commentary on your choice of machines.

Powder weight is something that must be checked at start-up, after refilling the powder funnel reservior and periodically throughout the production run. So too, one must periodically inspect cartridge overall length, crimp and primer seating.

Progressive presses deviour raw materials at a prodigious rate, hence the need for electronic scales, case gages, extra primer fill tubes, bullet trays, powder warning devices and good lighting as well as ones full and undivided or uninterrupted attention. Your first one-hundred cartidges should go by quite quickly.

Use good materials: clean, headstamp and use sorted brass (once fired, twice fired, etc) is an oft overlooked first step. Keep notes in some form of notebook or binder-write down all the load data you are using for the task on the press. Double check all numbers; keep that page visible while reloading.

I've reloaded through three babies---_don't do it_ when you are tired!


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## stevexd9 (May 10, 2007)

Thank for you for the information about the 650. I just search it on youtube and it looks like it will do everything that I need 

jfdavis58 - The only reason that I was looking at the 1050 was that it included everthing that I thought I would need. I really wasn't able to compare the two machines so I am not sure what the difference is?? I just don't want to get a machine then have to upgrade it when I get more-and-more into the hobbie. I'm sure that the 650 will be more than enough. How does the 550 compare to the 650?

I was also looking at the powder checking die and will help ensure that I don't forget or over fill a load..


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## jfdavis58 (Jul 10, 2007)

stevexd9 said:


> Thank for you for the information about the 650. I just search it on youtube and it looks like it will do everything that I need
> 
> jfdavis58 - The only reason that I was looking at the 1050 was that it included everthing that I thought I would need. I really wasn't able to compare the two machines so I am not sure what the difference is?? I just don't want to get a machine then have to upgrade it when I get more-and-more into the hobbie. I'm sure that the 650 will be more than enough. How does the 550 compare to the 650?
> 
> I was also looking at the powder checking die and will help ensure that I don't forget or over fill a load..


Frankly Steve, any good reloading press will do 'all you need to do'-it comes down to convenience and comfort. Enos has it 'boiled-down' pretty accurately on the link provided by Wandering Man. The 650 indexes--i.e. rotates the tool plate/cases automatically and you get one set of dies. Most of the rest is cosmetic creature comforts.

I started with the Square Deal then upgraded to the 550 after about a year---but I still use both presses! The 550 for whatever gun is my favorite of the moment and the square deal to churn-out 9mm by the 1000's. My wife and daughter prefer its shooting characteristics.

The 1050 you are leaning towards is a monster _production _machine; and that means all the complexities of such a beast. It takes about 5 minutes to reset a 550 for a different caliber--even if one uses just a single powder funnel. I'd bet the 650 is similar. Most of the folks in my area with a 1050 never change calibers! And a quick check of those that do, revealed it takes about 30 minutes.

I've thought about upgrading to a 650--hey, I'm getting old and lazy (ier). But then I think, NAW; just get another 550--no learning curve!

Here is what you really need: more (as in 10 or 12) primer pick-up tubes; spare parts kits(1 or 2 at least); extra wrenches and allen keys (they grow legs and run away); acro bins (sorting and catching--they fill up fast!) and double quantities of all the expendables: cleaning and polishing media, brass, powder, primers, bullets and time!

One final reason I prefer my 550 over a 650 or greater-manual indexing. Sounds odd, I know; but I like to tinker (yes I keep detailed notes). I like to do really strange things like matching all my brass by headstamp, cycles, _length_. And then I make tedious checks throughout the production.

Once I took 1500 never fired 45acp cases, rechecked them for stamp, weight, and length. Took statistics. Rejected all that didn't exceed the group average length or had outlying weights, then trimmed remaining to identical length. I deburred all the primer pockets and flash holes. Weighed every charge and every bullet. Then chronographed 1/2 of all the rounds while shooting the rest for accuracy. A velocity standard deviation of 30-40fps (or less) is rather typical from a Dillon press; I got multiple strings of 25 shots with standard deviations of single digits (std dev<10fps). Like I said "I like to tinker".

The powder checker 'might' be a good idea; it would really depend on what caliber and powder selection. Pistol cases are very small volumes and I like powders that file the space. A double charge makes a big mess! Rifle calibers are a different story; there is often a lot of empty space and a double charge might hide pretty well--until it destroys the gun! But like all the 'add-ons' it's one more complexity to the process. Only you know exactly how much stuff you can deal with at any given moment. I've got a round counter on the final die, no alarm devices except for the primer empty buzzer. I've never produced a squib or a double--but I'm meticulously careful--I like my hands and my face!

One final thing: much of the technical spec for Dillon presses is sanitized for the general (non-shooting) public. Blue presses make a LOT of ammo of very high quality in delightfully short times! A LOT!


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## stevexd9 (May 10, 2007)

Thank you explaining all of the diffirences with the presses. And all of the information!!
I can see how you would like the manual index. I think I might like that as well. There is a shooter supply store not too far from me that sells dillion presses. I am going to go check out the 550 and see if that will work for me too!


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## neophyte (Aug 13, 2007)

*Reloading*

stevexd9: Congratulations on the new one on the way.
In part you suggest reading. Outstanding.
You can find much information from the web;
you can go to a public library,
Now is the time to study, and prepare yourself. 
Most library's; with the proper info can and do data-base your states system and will order for you "check out and returns" 
most do not advertise this.
I base this assumption with oct. nov. type of waiting period. 
Read and ask your questions.
Most of the "Old Timers" [with total respect intended] learned way before the inter-net, Now we have the best of both worlds available.

Again Congratulations;


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