# First handgun - P226 .357 / .40



## kornesque (Oct 8, 2008)

Hello to all, just jumping on to meet/greet/ask/learn/ask/learn/learn...that's all. :mrgreen:

Seriously though, I've been lurking here for a few weeks listening to all the chatter about various gear, and after narrowing it down to a few, sided with the P226. It came in Two Tone, giving me the night sights and DAK, which I couldn't keep my hands off of at the shop. My service (USCG) switched from M9 to P229 DAK a few years back and I've gotten quite friendly with the consistent yet tedious "road trip" the action delivers. 6.5 lbs is very tolerable for me. I find the full size of the 226 is more stable on my platform though, and am not planning to carry concealed with this one, so went that route. Immediately dropped in the .40S&W barrel my shop threw in, per my preference. What a handy accessory, eh?

I've got a few questions concerning my choice...can't wait to hear the input. Always good.

1) The specific model # I bought is E26-357-TSS-DAK-G. Does the trailing "G" have any significance? All other portions of the number mean something, but I can't nail that one letter out. Bet it means nothing much, but thought I'd ask.

2) Ammo. A buddy of mine told me to stay away from straight lead, but he has a couple Glocks, and after much reading here (thanks again) it sounds like only the Glocks have issues handling lots of naked lead in their loads. Am I missing crucial information, or will I be safe putting lead through once in a while?

3) Cleaning. I use Hoppes Blast and Clean on my rifle all the time, but have to take 'er down from the synthetic stock to avoid stains and other damage. Before I apply this solvent to my particular model, are there any parts that should not come in contact with it? I'd hate to pull off any finish. I'm not 100% sure of the materials used throughout the gun, hence the concern.

After a trip to the range I'm sure I'll get more nit picky, but these are my out-of-the-box head scratchers. Thanks for any input, of course, and can't wait to jump in the fray here.

Most Humbly,
-Drewby Doo

p.s. - Oh yeah...damn, what a sexy gun! :smt023


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## Growler67 (Sep 8, 2008)

I've shot ALL kinds of stuff through my P226 in the last 18 1/2 years. Lead round nosed rounds for steel plate shoots (jacketed ammo fragments and sometimes comes back toward the shooter) to FMJ and everything in between. Not had one problem feeding, firing or ejecting any of it.

Hoppes #9 or CLP will do fine. I sometimes use Gunscrubber on the barrel but otherwise I usually go with parts in a ziploc and spray down with WD40 to soak for about 15 minutes or so. Bronze then Nylon bore brushes with some CLP then jag and patch. Repeat until no carbon shows up on the patches then light coat of RemOil or similar. Same treatment with mags except I don't use the bronze brush and add a few strokes with an old toothbrush.

Exterior, just go with an old t-shirt and RemOil or similar and give it a good rubdown. Toothbrush where needed (muzzle end due to muzzleflash discharge) and pipe cleaners for the tighter spots around the breech block.

Update after your range trip.


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## kornesque (Oct 8, 2008)

Growler, that's what I was hoping to hear, as I intend to tinker with various "buddies" in the quest for perfection.

Here's a little quirk I noticed: the slide catch assy requires considerable force to release with a magazine inserted. The P229s I've handled were certainly much lighter in this aspect - is this a matter of break in, or does some smith work need done? Thanks.


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## BeefyBeefo (Jan 30, 2008)

It'll loosen up as you break it in.

-Jeff-


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## Growler67 (Sep 8, 2008)

kornesque said:


> Here's a little quirk I noticed: the slide catch assy requires considerable force to release with a magazine inserted. The P229s I've handled were certainly much lighter in this aspect - is this a matter of break in, or does some smith work need done? Thanks.


I wouldn't get all knotted up about this, especially it being a new gun. It'll break in and all will be right as rain. Besides, it's much better this way than not locking up afterwards because of wear or smithing. A good positive effort to release is another way of adding an element of "deliberate action" to your marksmanship skills. You intend to do something rather than it "just happening" on it's own. Deliberate action is the best way to ensure safe handling of any firearm.

I've fired 95gr SJSWC, NATO and Czech Surplus rounds while in Germany. Lead round nose in Steel plate matches in Hawaii and everything else available (except + and +P) for 9mm in my P226. Never let me down ever. I still shoot it, though my P228 is my CCW and sees more action these days. My P226 is stll spot on with the original barrel too. Enjoy a long and wonderful relaionship with yours :smt023


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## kornesque (Oct 8, 2008)

Growler67 said:


> Enjoy a long and wonderful relaionship with yours :smt023


With all the good news I've gotten so far from both y'all, I most certainly will. Another question: dry firing. Good to go, or snap caps only? Heard various things for various cannons, and am siding with caution until I know for sure. Cheers.


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## Growler67 (Sep 8, 2008)

My personal choice is Snap caps. Pachmyer or A-Zoom, I have both on hand and always use them for dry firing and function drills. Not terribly expensive and worth much more than their weight for the price. I too have read and heard that dry firing can be done without worry on an empty chamber with SiG's and others. My choice is not to.


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## BeefyBeefo (Jan 30, 2008)

kornesque said:


> With all the good news I've gotten so far from both y'all, I most certainly will. Another question: dry firing. Good to go, or snap caps only? Heard various things for various cannons, and am siding with caution until I know for sure. Cheers.


I don't personally use snap caps. I haven't had any problems, nor have a lot of others who don't use them. Having said that, if you would feel more comfortable using them, than by all means purchase some and use them. :smt023

-Jeff-


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## Charlie (May 13, 2006)

kornesque said:


> Hello to all, just jumping on to meet/greet/ask/learn/ask/learn/learn...that's all. :mrgreen:
> 
> 1) The specific model # I bought is E26-357-TSS-DAK-G. Does the trailing "G" have any significance? All other portions of the number mean something, but I can't nail that one letter out. Bet it means nothing much, but thought I'd ask...........................
> 
> p.s. - Oh yeah...damn, what a sexy gun! :smt023


I'm pretty sure "G" stand for "great" pistol! :anim_lol: Sigs are fine pieces of pistol art. These guys are telling you right. Break it in with 500 rds. at a time and it will smooth out quick. Don't ever sell it...........you WILL end up regreting it! :smt033


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## kornesque (Oct 8, 2008)

I'll take that as gospel Charlie.

As for the dry firing issue, I've heard tell on some forum (can't remember which, been all over the place lately...maybe here) that inserting a piece of leather or soft nylon between hammer and breechblock is an effective way to reduce shock on the firing pin assy. Sounds legit, but I'll take it with a grain of salt and stick with the snaps. Apprecaite the input, this is great! Almost like having a good gun shop at my fingertips.


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## BeefyBeefo (Jan 30, 2008)

kornesque said:


> As for the dry firing issue, I've heard tell on some forum (can't remember which, been all over the place lately...maybe here) that inserting a piece of leather or soft nylon between hammer and breechblock is an effective way to reduce shock on the firing pin assy. Sounds legit, but I'll take it with a grain of salt and stick with the snaps. Apprecaite the input, this is great! Almost like having a good gun shop at my fingertips.


I believe you are referring to the following post by _Steve M1911A1_.



Steve M1911A1 said:


> No snap-cap? To repeatedly dry-fire a semi-auto that has an external hammer, you could also try this:
> Use scissors to cut a piece of 1/8"-thick leather or plastic so that it will fit into the space in the back of the pistol's slide that the hammer falls into.
> Whenever you want to dry-fire, insert the leather or plastic piece between hammer and slide, and dry-fire away. The inserted piece keeps the hammer from hitting the firing pin, and absorbs the blow.
> Fred, you could do this too.


It can be found in this thread about Dry-Firing.

http://www.handgunforum.net/showthread.php?p=137864#post137864

:smt023:smt1099

-Jeff-


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## kornesque (Oct 8, 2008)

Ah yes, that would be the one. He's quite a clever dude judging from waht I've read. I suppose it does make sense that none of the components would be affected with this method. *brief period of thought* Well, snaps also serve well for misfire drills, so I guess I'll head that direction. Thanks for the link, that one will go in my local stickies.


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## kornesque (Oct 8, 2008)

Alrighty, she's a champ. Making bullseyes out to 25yds was not extraordinary. Had a couple buddies take turns at it and they were floored - one was shooting his Glock 23, the other a S&W MP 9mm. What I found erotic was the intuition of its point-and-shoot aesthetics. Maybe it's my CG training on the P229, maybe it was the stiff breeze on my back creating some crazy vortex to my frame, but here's what a 12rnd *<<edit - thought it was 15rds, but that was 3 extra from my buddy...too excited to think straight!* magazine netted me in 15sec at 10yds with minimal effort. Nuff said...Sig knows EXACTLY what they're doing. :smt168


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## oak1971 (Apr 28, 2008)

Glad to see you love your sig. They aint cheap, but you get what you pay for.


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