# Shooting .38 Bullets In A 357



## blackpowder (Jul 15, 2008)

can shooting alot of .38 rounds in my 357 686+ harm my gun. a guy at the range said it could. but he didn't say how. has anybody heard of this or ever damaged their 357 by doing so?


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## bruce333 (Sep 1, 2006)

Damage? No.

Crud build up in the chambers? Yes.

Since the 38spl is a shorter round the the 357mag, "crud" will build up in the chambers over time. Making it difficult or impossible to chamber the longer rounds.

Diligent cleaning with a chamber brush will prevent this. Note, I said chamber brush, not bore brush. A chamber brush is made a little bigger than a bore brush so that it will engage the sides of the chambers better than a bore brush.


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## Wyatt (Jan 29, 2008)

Yeah, shooting .38's should not be an issue. I actually had what Bruce was talking about, fouling rings inside the charge holes right where the .38 cartridge meets the bullet. One hole got bad enough that a round wouldn't slide all the way in by itself, sticking out ever so slightly, but I could nudge it in all the way. Nothing that a good cleaning didn't fix. Just let the cleaner soak in for an hour or so before brushing and it is good to go.

Not much will hurt your 686, Blackpowder. With proper care that firearm will give your grandson a lifetime of pleasure. You've got yourself one of the all time great revolvers chambered for .357 magnum.


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## Bob Wright (May 10, 2006)

For whatever its worth, I have a short section of cleaning rod threaded for bore brushes that I can chuck in an electric drill. Use a size larger than nominal caliber, for example .44 for a .357/.38. Dip in Hoppe's No.9 or even better, carburetor cleaner, and run through each chamber turning at moderate speed. Run completely through and out the front before backing out.

If fouling is not too severe, carburetor cleaner itself does a pretty good job, as it dissolves carbon.

Bob Wright


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## James NM (Jan 4, 2007)

Bob I like the drill idea. Never occured to me. Gonna try it.


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## blackpowder (Jul 15, 2008)

Bob Wright said:


> For whatever its worth, I have a short section of cleaning rod threaded for bore brushes that I can chuck in an electric drill. Use a size larger than nominal caliber, for example .44 for a .357/.38. Dip in Hoppe's No.9 or even better, carburetor cleaner, and run through each chamber turning at moderate speed. Run completely through and out the front before backing out.
> 
> If fouling is not too severe, carburetor cleaner itself does a pretty good job, as it dissolves carbon.
> 
> Bob Wright


killer idea guy. i got a dremel and a .45 copper bore brush. i will be trying you're idea next time i shoot .38's outta her. thank you guys for the info...


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

Dremels typicaly like to operate at high RPM. You want to use moderate to low RPM for this task.

I only use this technique when the cylinder has been removed from the frame and crane to avoid possibility of the drill chuck damaging the frame or crane.

A drill press works much better than a hand drill motor if available.


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## blackpowder (Jul 15, 2008)

ok sounds good. i wasn't going to use the dremel on high just at lets say 2-3 on the switch which goes to 5 i believe. i will use care with this method. and only use this method if crude build up is bad from .38s.


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## Wyatt (Jan 29, 2008)

If manual labor doesn't work, use a driver drill. Lower RPMs.


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## USAFgsm (Dec 18, 2006)

blackpowder said:


> ok sounds good. i wasn't going to use the dremel on high just at lets say 2-3 on the switch which goes to 5 i believe. i will use care with this method. and only use this method if crude build up is bad from .38s.


Thats still going to be faster than an electric drill will go when its wide open.


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## blackpowder (Jul 15, 2008)

ok a drill i'll use then.


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## Teuthis (Apr 9, 2008)

If one thoroughly cleans one's guns after each shooting session, this issue does not arise. I have shot .38's in .357's for decades and since I cleaned them each time, I never had any build up. I cannot imagine someone not cleaning a valuable firearm, which means any firearm, immediately after shooting it. 

Just pretend that the captain is holding inspection and remember what would happen to you if he found any speck of " build up" on the gun. That makes it easy.


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## FHBrumb (Oct 27, 2007)

I use a 40 cal brush on my 357 chambers. Works good... I will scrub like crazy, and then dry the chamber with a swab. When a 357 drops in cleanly, I'm done. 

I've never used a drill, or anything, but it's worth a go for saving time.


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## rvl8 (Jun 4, 2008)

is the increased energy of the .357 worth the extra recoil ? I shot a friends J frame the other day in .38 special, and even that I felt I would need LOTS of practice before i got proficient with it. it was a snubbie. 

and from what I have been reading, they are very close in size ?


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

rvl8 said:


> is the increased energy of the .357 worth the extra recoil ? I shot a friends J frame the other day in .38 special, and even that I felt I would need LOTS of practice before i got proficient with it. it was a snubbie.
> 
> and from what I have been reading, they are very close in size ?


It depends on what you are doing. If shooting paper or just plinking use light loads. If using it for protection against people use 38+P or greater. If walking in the Black Bear woods load it with hot .357's. If walking in Grizzly teritory get a bigger gun.

Stay safe.


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