# Lead/ copper fouling



## Dan (Feb 11, 2008)

I baught a little S&W J frame 38 SPL as a carry weapon. I took it to the range and shot 100 rounds to get a little practice in on it. I decided to ad the lasergrips for better accuracy, returned to the range and shot 50 range rounds, and 5 +P rounds. I have alot of lead, and copper (I think its copper) fouling in the barrel. It also has alot of fouling on the forward end of the cylinder, and in the breech that I cannot clean. Did the heat do this? How can I clean these areas without damaging the barrel, and finish of the gun? Dan


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## Wyatt (Jan 29, 2008)

Go to your local gun store or range and get a kit. It usually includes a bore brush and rod, a two-ended tooth brushy type thing, cleaning agent such as Hoppe's, gun patches (buy extra, you'll use alot of them), and some gun oil. 

First, unload the firearm. Then check it again.

Now: Definitely clean the barrel with a bore brush (make sure the bore brush is for your caliber or by one separately). Just follow the directions and or check your S&W manual, it will have instructions for cleaning your gun. If you don't have the manual you can download one online at the S&W website. You may come across a can of stuff called "Break Free". It does a good job and cleans/lubricates/protects all in one. It's pretty good stuff but I would still put a little straight gun oil in the joints of the moving parts. Obviously don't use the bore brush on the outside finish of the firearm, but a cloth soaked with Break-Free or Hoppe's and a little elbow grease should clean it up pretty good. On the breech and ends of the cylinder use the brush that came with the kit or a toothbrush with the Hoppe's/Break-Free. You can also pick up a silicone cloth to wipe your gun down when you've finished cleaning it, especially good if it will be stowed for a while. A clean gun is a happy gun.

Enjoy your revolver, it's a fine firearm.

Hope this helps.


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

What kind of bullets did you use? Were they copper color or gray lead color?

The typical approach is to purchase a pistol cleaning kit from a place such as Wal-Mart including some Hoppes #9 and a small container of Rem Oil or Breakfree CLP. Also buy some cloth cleaning patches for your caliber. Ask for a clerks help if necessary.

Run a patch wet with Hoppes through the barrel, Cylinder holes and anywhere else that looks dirty. Let it set for a couple of hours. After it sets a while use the rod and bore brush from the kit you purchased and run it up and down the interior of the barrel and cylinder holes. Let it set a bit longer then wipe it off with a rag, use that rod with a cloth patch and run it through the barrel and cylinder holes. Change the patch as it gets dirty and continue cleaning till you don't see crud on the last patch used. You may have to trim the patches to fit your caliber.

Do not oil the bore or cylinder holes but do squirt a little oil in the cracks leading to the trigger mechanism and cylinder center rod.

Finaly search the internet or a book store for Pistol Revolver Cleaning /Maintenance instructions.

Look into gun training at your local range or gun store.

Welcome to the World of Guns

Stay safe

:smt1099


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## Dan (Feb 11, 2008)

I have the cleaning kit, double ended brush, cloth cleaning patches, Hoppes no.9, and some break free CLP. My bore brush is plastic, could that be why it won't budge it? Do I need a better bore brush? As far as the fouling goes on the cylinder, and the breech I cannot get it to budge with my double ended brush. Thanks for the replies guys. Dan
TOF, I will be looking into a manual, and training, thanks for that advise.


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

Dan said:


> I have the cleaning kit, double ended brush, cloth cleaning patches, Hoppes no.9, and some break free CLP. My bore brush is plastic, could that be why it won't budge it? Do I need a better bore brush? As far as the fouling goes on the cylinder, and the breech I cannot get it to budge with my double ended brush. Thanks for the replies guys. Dan
> TOF, I will be looking into a manual, and training, thanks for that advise.


I am guessing the gun is Stainless steel or it probably would look cleaner to you. If so, agressive cleaning will not be as apt to damage the finish. Some of that green Scotch Brite wet down with Hoppes might help. I have used small pieces of that in lieu of brush or cloth patch to remove lead etc. I also use a bore brush with Hoppes in my drill press at low speed to clean cylinders. If the Case portion of the cylinder needs cleaned you need a larger brush than the bore brush. Go up 1 caliber. Bronze brushes are more agressive than plastic.

Soak it overnight in CLP or Hoppes and give it another shot.

:smt1099


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## Wyatt (Jan 29, 2008)

Check out this thread, I just posted it the other day and it is eerily similar to what you are describing:

http://www.handgunforum.net/showthread.php?t=12116


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## Wyatt (Jan 29, 2008)

TOF, You had responded to a similar question I posted on another thread about stubborn fouling/stains that wouldn't come off. I thought about your above post and just sprayed on my usual Break-Free CLP but this time LET IT SET as you suggested, only needed about 1/2 hour. Came right off and my baby's like new. The soak time did the trick.

Thank-you, sir.


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

Wyatt said:


> TOF, You had responded to a similar question I posted on another thread about stubborn fouling/stains that wouldn't come off. I thought about your above post and just sprayed on my usual Break-Free CLP but this time LET IT SET as you suggested, only needed about 1/2 hour. Came right off and my baby's like new. The soak time did the trick.
> 
> Thank-you, sir.


Wyatt,
If have finally managed to help someone I am pleased. 
Generally gun cleaning chemicals require a little time to do their magic. Powder residue is really baked on.

Shoot striaght and stay safe.

:smt1099


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