# Squid in Ruger Super Blackhawk



## paredneck (Jul 4, 2016)

New to the forum, looks like a good site for info. Question, first Squib load yesterday, cylinder is jammed and looks like bullet lodged in bottom of barrel, help please?


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## Bisley (Aug 24, 2008)

Sounds like the bullet is lodged in the forcing cone and still partly in the cylinder. Was it a hand load? If so, give details.

My only experience with a squib load was in a Ruger GP-100 revolver, and resulted in a FMJ bullet stuck in the barrel, clear of the cylinder. I was able to remove the cylinder and tap it out with a hardwood dowel rod and plastic hammer, although it took some fairly heavy blows. I would be somewhat concerned if I could not verify, for sure, that the round in the chamber was fully expended. Likely, it has, if you understand correctly what actually happened, but if there is any uncertainty, I would take it to a professional.


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## paredneck (Jul 4, 2016)

Berrys 240 gr plated bullet with 19 grain 2400 powder. The cylinder opens part way, but wont come out, and I cant get it back in place to push the base pin back in. best I can describe the sound was a dull pop, as I was wearing hearing protection.


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## Bisley (Aug 24, 2008)

Obviously, that round did not get a powder charge, and the bullet was powered by the primer, only. That can happen on a progressive loader, or even (in my case) with a Lee turret system, when I failed to inspect the contents of the case before setting the bullet. Or, you can just make a mistake, with a single stage.

Whatever the cause, you can't drive the bullet out with any assurance of safety, unless you can open the cylinder. If you are absolutely positive that there is no un-burned powder in the chamber, and you could get it to close and lock, you might be able to drive the bullet back into the cylinder, clear of the forcing cone. 

If you can't get the cylinder open by hand, the only option I know of would be to force it open with tools, which would probably need to be done by a pro, who could fix whatever he breaks. I think you probably need assistance from a gunsmith, unless you are willing to risk damage to your cylinder or forcing cone.


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## hillman (Jul 27, 2014)

Yeah, it was a squib. Probably no powder at all, just the primer pushing the bullet. A gunsmith can clear it without damaging the gun.


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## paredneck (Jul 4, 2016)

Taking it to a smithy today, will keep you updated, thanks.


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## RK3369 (Aug 12, 2013)

How does a "squid" with all those 6 or 8 tentacles and big long torpedo shaped body get lodged in the forcing cone of a Ruger Wheel gun???:mrgreen:


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## AZdave (Oct 23, 2015)

RK3369 said:


> How does a "squid" with all those 6 or 8 tentacles and big long torpedo shaped body get lodged in the forcing cone of a Ruger Wheel gun???:mrgreen:


I used to think people couldn't spell. But it's the auto spell check on the machines. Always re-read your posts.

It is that or paredneck likes sushi.:watching:


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## win231 (Aug 5, 2015)

Be careful when handloading...NO distractions, especially with progressive loading where several operations are happening at the same time. I always glance at the case before seating a bullet to verify powder charge. It's the last opportunity to check.

And don't shoot other people's reloads. The only time I had a squib was with a friend's reloads before I started loading my own, and with a range's reload. Funny; I avoided handloading for a couple of years because I thought it was too complicated. Never had a problem in 40 years of loading my own.


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## Bisley (Aug 24, 2008)

Give us a follow up when you get it back from the gunsmith, please. Squib loads have been on my mind, since I had one of my own, and new information is appreciated.


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## paredneck (Jul 4, 2016)

Sorry, meant squib, It was a Lee single stage. I'm curious what will be found out, weather I had no powder or not enough. I will keep you guys posted. thanks again.


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## win231 (Aug 5, 2015)

paredneck said:


> Sorry, meant squib, It was a Lee single stage. I'm curious what will be found out, weather I had no powder or not enough. I will keep you guys posted. thanks again.


I load on a single stage as well.

1. After becoming familiar with the powder level in the case with the particular load I'm using, I'll charge the case, glance at the powder level & immediately seat & crimp bullets.

2. Sometimes, I'll charge ALL the cases & put each one in a loading tray which makes it easy to compare the level of powder in each case. Then seat bullets in a separate operation.

Either way makes it highly unlikely to not notice a missing powder charge. Good lighting when handloading is also important. For larger cases & lighter powder charges, I'll use a flashlight to check the powder since it's near the bottom of the case & harder to see.

And, music, TV or conversation with others in the room are OK during other operations, but not during powder charging.

I load Berry's 240 Gr. Plated bullets as well, but remember that plated bullets are suitable for light - medium velocity loads. At higher velocities, the thin plating can come off on the way down the barrel. I've experienced this. For 44 Mag, I keep velocities around 1,100 fps & use jacketed bullets for higher velocities.


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## paredneck (Jul 4, 2016)

Win231, what loads are you using with the Berrys?


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## paredneck (Jul 4, 2016)

Well,
Got to the gunsmith yesterday, wonder full fella. Took a look at the gun and said wait here. Two minutes later he was back, cylinder ok, squib out. Didn't see any damage to the gun, and thought there was no powder in the case, and the primer forced the bullet into the barrel.
I really wanted to ask him what he did, in case I go through this again, but he was so helpful, and courteous, plus, he didn't charge me, I didn't.
He showed me some examples of what happens when people who don't know what they are doing with firearms. He had quite a collection, so it was worth the long drive to have mine repaired.
Thank you all again for the help. Safe shooting.


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## Bisley (Aug 24, 2008)

Likely, he had a very thin cutting tool that he could work between the forcing cone and the cylinder that he could cut the remnant of the bullet that was grabbing the cylinder. After that, he simply tapped the bullet out.

Good decision to go to a pro, and you apparently found a good one.


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## hillman (Jul 27, 2014)

Bisley said:


> Likely, he had a very thin cutting tool that he could work between the forcing cone and the cylinder that he could cut the remnant of the bullet that was grabbing the cylinder. After that, he simply tapped the bullet out.
> 
> Good decision to go to a pro, and you apparently found a good one.


We'll probably never know for sure what the smith did. My guy would have invited me to watch - but he knows me, which may matter.


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## Blackhawkman (Apr 9, 2014)

Well no offense intended but, as a retired gunsmith WE work on guns and advise safe gun handling. We don't very often train others to be smiths. Too much knowledge can be dangerous. The OP probably got some advise that he didn't want to post. Hmmm....jmo fwiw


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## win231 (Aug 5, 2015)

paredneck said:


> Win231, what loads are you using with the Berrys?


9 Gr. Win231. In my Marlin 1894, it generates around 1,100 fps. Excellent 100-yd. accuracy.


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## paredneck (Jul 4, 2016)

Thanks win231


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## win231 (Aug 5, 2015)

paredneck said:


> Thanks win231


Also, since there is no cannelure (crimping groove) on Berry's plated bullets, I ordered an inexpensive taper crimp die in 44 Magnum from RCBS. That prevents cutting into the plating which might occur when using a roll crimp on such a bullet.


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## bykerhd (Jul 25, 2012)

The only squib I've seen was with factory loads in, coincidentally, a Ruger Super Blackhawk over 40 years back.
The lead bullet was driven about halfway up the barrel by the primer.
Thanks goodness the guy didn't try firing another round.

He was able to pull the cylinder and quite easily tap the bullet out with a cleaning rod and a hammer.
Apparently, even the factory can produce defective ammo.
Thankfully, only very, very rarely.


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