# Looking for some advice



## jayc28 (Feb 25, 2008)

Hi everyone. I've been reading and reading these forums and there's a wealth of information and I just want to get some opinions on a few things. I don't currently own my own handgun, though I will very soon. I've been to the range a number of times with friends and relatives who have guns, and I've shot all kinds, from a 22's up to .50 cal. A few times I handled some Taurus firearms and liked them a lot. 

I live in Florida and will eventually want to get a CCW, but first I want to continue to become even more comfortable with shooting as my experience has been limited due to having to go when others are going. I want to be able to just get up and head down to the range on my own. 

I was thinking of perhaps getting a .22 at first, just so I can use it for target practice, plinking, etc. The advantage of course is that .22 ammo is ridiculously cheap and I could shoot hundreds of rounds a day without a big hit to the wallet. Plus, the purchase of a Taurus .22 would probably be under $200. I was thinking after some time, I could go ahead and get the 111 Mil Pro 9mm, shoot with it for awhile and then get the CCW.

Or would you think I'd be better off getting the 9mm now and just using that until such time I felt comfortable with getting a CCW? 

Any advice will be appreciated. 

Also, have any of you shopped at Gander Mountain stores? Any good?

Peace,
Jay


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## Todd (Jul 3, 2006)

Nothing wrong with getting a .22. first. Like you said, ammo is cheap, which means you'll be able to get to the range a lot. Don't force yourself into a caliber you're not comfortable with. If you think you want some trigger time with a .22 before you move up to a 9mm or something else, then do what's best for you. Same goes for your CCW; get it when you feel ready for it.

Never shopped at a Gander Mountain 'cause I don't have one near me. But the general consensus that I have heard is that they are overpriced. Here's a link to Bud's Gun Shop,http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php , which has some of the best prices on the internet. Take those prices and compare to what Gander and your local stores are charging. Just don't forget to add in about $30 or so to the Bud's price for the FFL fee you'll have to pay the store to process the paperwork if you decide to order online.


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## JeffWard (Aug 24, 2007)

2 schools of thought...

1) Buy the 22LR and get in your trigger time... then get the 9mm (or more).

2) You're already shooting other people's guns... If you are accurate/safe/proficient with ther 9mms, go for it. Get the 22LR later when budget allows, but in the mean time you have a home-defense gun, which the 22 is not.

The later model Taurus guns seem fine... They are mostly decent copies of other companies models, saving them the investment of R&D and design. But for the most part, reliable, and definately cheap.

That said... how much is your life worth? My answer is... carry the BEST gun I can afford, not the cheapest gun that fits your needs.

JW


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

I realize the whole of the US is subject to crime but some areas more than others.

If you consider yourself in a safe zone. (flame me already) get the 22 first and become reasonably proficient and comfortable with a dangerous weapon in your hands and on your belt. You may not be able to carry on the street but it doesn't hurt to carry at home and just develop a feel for it. Charge yourself 9MM prices on paper when shooting the 22. You will very soon have saved enough to, with clear conscience, if you have one, purchase a big boomer.

If living in a battle zone by all means follow Jeff's advice and get the big boomer now.

:smt1099


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## submoa (Dec 16, 2007)

I'm gonna run against the herd and suggest as a noob you learn and practice on a with a .38spl DA snubbie revolver first:

1. Cheap price for gun.
2. Easy to operate - no slide or safety.
3. Heavy DA pull will train you against trigger anticipation
4. Short barrel will help train you to control muzzle flip.
5. .38 recoil and bang will provide more realistic training than a .22 pop.

Trasitioning to a semi later will be easier than the reverse. And the .38 can be still used as a defensive CCW later if you choose.


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## Mike Barham (Mar 30, 2006)

I can scarcely think of a worse choice for a beginning shooter than a .38 snubby, except maybe a .40+ caliber magnum. Snubbies kick hard, usually have mediocre triggers, and are generally difficult to shoot accurately. They are really guns for skilled shooters, not guns for new guys. A new guy will just get beat up and discouraged shooting a snubby.

I think a good .22 is the best choice for gaining real skill. You can learn to manage recoil later. Right now think about how to make the hits with good sight alignment, body position and trigger control. After all, the purpose of shooting is hitting.

Second choice is a 9mm with a decent trigger, if you lean toward autos. If revolvers, a medium-framed 3" or 4" .38/.357 should do the trick.


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## jayc28 (Feb 25, 2008)

Thanks everybody, for the responses. I live in a safe area so I'm not worried too much about home invasions. My security lights and dog will scare most people off. 

I'm probably leaning towards the .22 at this point, though to be honest, I've been doing a little reading and not many people have said nice things about Taurus's .22's. I am probably going to check out Beretta's Neos .22 which I've read great things about and the price is right - around $225.

Though the purchase of a 9mm is not out of the question. 

We'll see. But thanks again for the responses. Certainly gives me more to think about.


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## submoa (Dec 16, 2007)

Remember, the request is for a first gun for a novice shooter that will later purchase another gun.



Mike Barham said:


> Snubbies kick hard.


Recoil is sharp vs. strong. The idea is desensitizing against the sound and surprise of shooting for the new shooter. Therefore helps training against anticipation.



Mike Barham said:


> usually have mediocre triggers


DA revolver trigger has greater pull than most autos. Reset is usually consistent and no more prone to creep than other guns. The stronger pull helps a new shooter learn to manage the trigger at the reset point.



Mike Barham said:


> generally difficult to shoot accurately.


Marksmanship is less of a training priority with a new shooter than teaching safety, stance, good sight alignment, body position and trigger control. Early on, focus on short range defensive COM accuracy. Haven't we already agreed that in SD, COM is good enough?



Mike Barham said:


> They are really guns for skilled shooters, not guns for new guys. A new guy will just get beat up and discouraged shooting a snubby.


Depends on the training environment you set up. Establish progressive, achievable, iterative goals for effective training. Hit a 8x11 piece of paper at 2 yards. Is your stance good? Do you have your eyes open when you shoot? Move the paper farther away. Feel for the trigger reset point. Farther away. Make consecutive shots practising trigger control.. Farther away. Do you remember to breathe? etc. and so forth.

Teaching a small framed person on a semi when they can't comfortably rack the slide is discouraging.



Mike Barham said:


> I think a good .22 is the best choice for gaining real skill. You can learn to manage recoil later.


A .22 _could_ be used for training. Achieving marksmanship early in training through use of a .22 means that when transitioning to a heavier caliber, recoil creates a setback in results.

VS. Transitioning from a .38snub to a quality 9mm will improve target accuracy with the longer sight radius and heavier barrel. Learning the slide and other controls will have no affect on marksmanship.

We both agree that the purpose of shooting is hitting the target. But our approaches to training may differ. I like to have the student experience consistently improving results. Managing recoil and trigger control early on may mean that early results may be wide of target initially - but they will improve. Each stage of improvement is encouraging to the student.

While I can agree with you that failure can be instructive; I also believe learning without setbacks builds confidence. And in the end, effective self defense is all about being in control. What better way to have the student be in control than being fearless from never having failed?


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## Merlin45 (Jul 12, 2008)

*some advice?*

OMHO.....Been shootin most of my life....An old US Army saying..."Train like you fight" is appliccable here. The time it would take, (Not to mention money spent on rounds at the range...) to shoot a .22....then transit to a larger caliber, is more time than I would care to take, given the fact that I'd want to be able to carry for self-defense, in as short a time as would be prudent. If you are considering a 9MM or larger....go to one of the local ranges that have rental guns. find one in the caliber that suits you, and feels good in your hand. Choose a round that is a proven man-stopper. Practice,practice....and then practice some more. That way, you'll get a feel for the heft of the weapon, how it jumps, shoots hi or low, and correct sight picture. And there are always some good old boys at these places...the knowledge they have is invaluable. As at the start, Just my opinion. In any event, this is a fantastic forum!...I learn from everyone on here.


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## niadhf (Jan 20, 2008)

jayc28 said:


> I've been doing a little reading and not many people have said nice things about Taurus's .22's.


my taurus model 95 is over 10 years old, has a few thousand rounds through it. Only had 2 problems. when i opened the box (which i still have) i needed to tighten 1 sight screw and subsicuently resight it....
and today, aftoer 150 rounds, I had 2 american eagle 22.lr that needed double strikes to fire (figure the piring pin channel was dirty, i have treated this gun a lot like mike treats his Glocks :smt083)(yeah i didn't say they were big problems).

Overall, i still love it, and while i like smiths.. (flame me already), for the money i paid (especially comparitevely) this thing is awesome.:smt023


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