# Which style snubby for carry?



## SSGN_Doc (Mar 12, 2020)

Snub nosed revolvers have become my “current interest” in firearms. Still consider myself more of an autoloader carrier, user, proponent. However, I’m taking a bit of a side-trip to see how good or how bad snub nosed revolvers are in a semi-auto dominated market.

I kind of want to get an idea of the arguments for different choices people need to make when selecting a snub nosed revolver. And I would like to go through this in a somewhat tedious way (Sorry about subjecting the forum to this). Making It a given that a person has already landed on the decision that a snubby revolver is going to be what they purchase and that it will be in a 35 bore (.357, .or 38 Special/+P). The next choice I’d like to explore is what style seemed best. DA only with a fully enclosed hammer, Shrouded hammer, or exposed hammer DA/SA. What should they consider for home, carry, attending some classes and possibly running it kind of hard for a weekend class if they really take to the snubby and want to become a Black belt in the art of the Roscoe.


So…

Hammer, shrouded hammer or fully enclosed hammer, and why?


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## ks1 (Jul 29, 2021)

DAO K6s is favorite. 6 rounds of 357 Mag (handles the round very well, BTW), snag-free, great build quality.


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## Brian48 (Dec 1, 2014)

I carried an all steel Model 60 for almost 16+ years before I finally switched to one of the more modern polymer 9mms. Several years ago I did try to switch over to a Kahr K9, but the issues with that gun put in a very scary situation that could have turned bad. After that, I went back to the M60 never looked back until about 2014/15 as nothing came close to it's reliability until then. 

The all steel jframes were more the norm back in '94 when I bought it, but with the right holster, you'll never notice the weight, which is really appreciated when shooting hot +Ps. Obviously, alloy options are better these days. The spur hammer never bothered me. A trick I learned a long time ago to prevent snags against clothing is to simply place your thumb behind and underneath the spur when drawing the gun out. Whether it's in your pocket or in a holster, there is no way for the gun to snag since your thumb is creating an arch for clothing to slide over. This is how I draw all my revolvers. 

Best advice I can give is get what you like (or can afford) and not worry about styles so much. No matter what variant you choose, you need to practice like hell with it. That's the most important thing.


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## SSGN_Doc (Mar 12, 2020)

Brian48 said:


> I carried an all steel Model 60 for almost 16+ years before I finally switched to one of the more modern polymer 9mms. Several years ago I did try to switch over to a Kahr K9, but the issues with that gun put in a very scary situation that could have turned bad. After that, I went back to the M60 never looked back until about 2014/15 as nothing came close to it's reliability until then.
> 
> The all steel jframes were more the norm back in '94 when I bought it, but with the right holster, you'll never notice the weight, which is really appreciated when shooting hot +Ps. Obviously, alloy options are better these days. The spur hammer never bothered me. A trick I learned a long time ago to prevent snags against clothing is to simply place your thumb behind and underneath the spur when drawing the gun out. Whether it's in your pocket or in a holster, there is no way for the gun to snag since your thumb is creating an arch for clothing to slide over. This is how I draw all my revolvers.
> 
> Best advice I can give is get what you like (or can afford) and not worry about styles so much. No matter what variant you choose, you need to practice like hell with it. That's the most important thing.


the question is really about design vulnerability more than ”style” I suppose. 

Ive read and heard in many places that the thumb behind the hammer technique for drawing and holstering is preferred. There is an unlikely but still possible scnenario where I think the hammer could still present a problem In addition to an exposed hammer design allowing for more areas for dirt/debris ingress. The unlikely use scenario is one that is often touted as a reason “the revolver is superior to the semi-auto for defense”. Shooting from inside a jacket pocket. Having read a review of a snub nosed revolver class where they put this to practice, the instructor as well as a student encountered hammer entanglement that prevented function, when putting this technique to practice. 

Just food for thought.


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## wirenut (Dec 16, 2015)




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## tony pasley (May 6, 2006)

I have a model 36 smith that my wife has taken over and a Charter Arms Bulldog with a 3 inch barrel that I had to carry for about 3 months back in 1986 working in S.C.


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## mur.cap (7 mo ago)

SSGN_Doc said:


> Snub nosed revolvers have become my “current interest” in firearms. Still consider myself more of an autoloader carrier, user, proponent. However, I’m taking a bit of a side-trip to see how good or how bad snub nosed revolvers are in a semi-auto dominated market.
> 
> I kind of want to get an idea of the arguments for different choices people need to make when selecting a snub nosed revolver. And I would like to go through this in a somewhat tedious way (Sorry about subjecting the forum to this). Making It a given that a person has already landed on the decision that a snubby revolver is going to be what they purchase and that it will be in a 35 bore (.357, .or 38 Special/+P). The next choice I’d like to explore is what style seemed best. DA only with a fully enclosed hammer, Shrouded hammer, or exposed hammer DA/SA. What should they consider for home, carry, attending some classes and possibly running it kind of hard for a weekend class if they really take to the snubby and want to become a Black belt in the art of the Roscoe.
> 
> ...


You don't have to we fellow enthusiast your method of inquiry because it's totally on point as well as your reasoning. In my situation I've carried as a LEO for decades and it was the S&W Chief Special Model 36. That was the only "off-duty" offered to us back in 1969. I carried it right through 2000 when it was exchanged for a Smith J-Frame Titanium Airlite Ti 342 in .38 Spl. +P which I still carry. In 2000 I sold my mint Smith Stainless Model 60 and a Cold Det. Spl. used for anti-crime patrol. My Smith Titanium has a CTC Red Laser site installed (purchased cheaply from a friend). This model pistol has an internal hammer and can be fired from inside a pocket of one's clothing. It is a "pocket pistol." Previous to this revolver, I carried the Model 36 in an ankle holster religiously. Now to your inquiry. There is no "either or here." You can try to carry the snub-nose as you say solo or along with an semiauto carry as a backup pistol IF your carry regulations allow a second pistol. I would suggest a hammerless (internal or shrouded) Airweight version. Personally, I would only carry a Smith myself. If you want to minimize the expense you can purchase a used version.
The lighter pistols are a bit painful to fire on the range, so you can use shooters/cushioned rappelling gloves. You will find .38 Spl. is fine for range use and the +Ps will recoil a bit more. You can carry defensive loads and practice with some to get the feel for them. BTW my alternate and usually daily carry is the Smith 9 Shield, basically a pocket carry option. I carry on the strong side with optional carry for both handguns in dual purpose IWB/Pocket Remora "tacky" style holster. Grips? Up to you, rubber and longer would cushion the recoil a bit. But for defensive use it probably wouldn't matter much at that time.


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## Islands7 (Nov 30, 2016)

Personal experiences

Ruger LCR 357 
PROS: smoother trigger than all S&W, fast draw from even a pocket, practice can be 39spl +P but will land lower on target; CT green laser option
CON: recoil excessive but can get used to it in time, only 5 rounds, suggested max. range for bullseyes = 22ft

Ruger LCRx 357
Ditto above except range +20%, power +10%, recoil -10%

S&W 327NG
PROS: 8-shot, hammer for single shots, range similar to LCRx, recoil 70% of above Rugers; easier to clean cylinder than above
CONS: no CT green laser option; pretty fat for a pocket but can-do in tactical pants; trigger needs work; larger hands can easily reach trigger but a slight stretch for others

I could accept S&W 627 with some work to it (college shooting coach preference) but never again the 442


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## MP Gunther (5 mo ago)

Love the Smith's but for the best bang for the buck, I like Ruger! Well made with descent triggers especially on the LCR which can fit nicely in a pocket holster and if you don't mind carrying some more weight the SP101 with a bobbed hammer handles recoil better.


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## mur.cap (7 mo ago)

Each to their own but for the Smiths...Lifetime Warranty.
They already replaced one of my semi-auto which skip the bang and I skipped the "buck."
Gave me a brand new 9 Shield with a CTC Laserguard Sight.


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## Supermatic57 (4 mo ago)

*S&W 351. 7 shot in .22 WMR. Right front pocket in a sticky holster. (When can't carry a semi).*


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## mur.cap (7 mo ago)

I'm not a proponent of any caliber less than a 9mm or .38 Spl. for carry...unless there's a physical challenge to do so or for some female carries.. The shots may be terminal but not stop the initial threat. That's the concern.


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## badge851 (Jan 29, 2013)

S&W® M&P® BODYGUARD® 38 Integrated Crimson Trace® Laser...


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## mur.cap (7 mo ago)

That's fine. I just like the idea of having a laser I can remove. I got my CTX laser after I had the revolver via a friend at a "discount" Just about any J-Frame revolver is a good second "buddy."


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## Fredward (Dec 10, 2016)

No "wrong" responses here. I have to say your reasoning is very accurate and based, it appears, on expert statements, but in response I must say I carried a model 36 in a patrol jacket pocket as a backup on traffic stops, and never had a hammer hang up on the jacket or had excessive gunk around the hammer. A pocket holster prevented that, also, I wiped the gun down daily and cleaned it weekly. 22 magnum is a valid defensive round, especially for those identified above. I also disagree with the airtight argument, I had many air weights over the years and found that, although marginally easier to carry, the recoil eventually damaged my hands (along with other causes) and it came to a point where I simply could not carry a good defense round in one. I switched to Model 60's, a little beefier and capable of handling 357's in a pinch, in an AWB holster. I currently own S&W's, a K6s, Taurus, a Colt or two and various Ruger revolvers. Whatever your choose, practice with it often until you get really good with it, then practice a whole lot more.


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## mur.cap (7 mo ago)

Can't argue with all of that. In think you meant "Airlite" though. They are discontinued. My department only allowed the Model 36 to be carried off-duty or used as a backup handgun. On a rare occasion I dropped a German Walther PPK into the pocket of my heavy woolen winter police coat because I had trouble getting to the Model 10 buried underneath all the garb. This was when I was walking a footpost, solo in under a subway elevated train line. The other thing is yes, the Airlite Ti I have will rip one's thumb on the cylinder release, so I glove shoot it rarely. But if needed when carrying that least of the worries if put into use. Practice is good, having ammo is better.


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