# Shooting Steel Plates



## blackdog3 (Jan 6, 2010)

Just purchased my first handgun and was wondering what type of bullet should be used when shooting steel plates?


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## dosborn (Apr 17, 2009)

Lead would probably be best, but jacketed should be okay. I would not be shooting it with a higher than reccomended caliber because it could destroy the target.


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## VAMarine (Dec 25, 2008)

If you shoot jacketed rounds on steel, make sure the steel is a good distance away, the jackets like to come back at you.


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## zhurdan (Mar 21, 2008)

It also depends on what kind of steel targets you are shooting. I've found a type that you can shoot damn near on top of them without ever having had any splatter or jackets come back. The trick is in the design of the steel and the hardness of the steel. See here and watch the splatter

These targets are hardened steel and have about a 14 degree downward angle to them. There are no flat edges facing the shooter, and there is a "bounce" built into the target to absorb the impact and still shatter the bullet into nice little pieces of copper and lead.

Either way, shoot safely, wear eye protection, and most importantly, KNOW YOUR EQUIPMENT. I've been shooting these targets for a couple of years now, and I know how they'll react thru testing from various ranges with various calibers. PM me for company info.


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## blackdog3 (Jan 6, 2010)

Tossing around the idea of contacting a local welding shop to have a couple steel plates cut. Thinking that it may be a little for cost effective. Can anybody give me some pointers on the thickness of the steel that would be recommended??????


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## dosborn (Apr 17, 2009)

1/2" should have no trouble with .45 and maybe okay for .357. I have not shot anything above .45 at steel and I think it was closer to 3/8" thick.


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## Bisley (Aug 24, 2008)

blackdog3 said:


> Tossing around the idea of contacting a local welding shop to have a couple steel plates cut. Thinking that it may be a little for cost effective. Can anybody give me some pointers on the thickness of the steel that would be recommended??????


I shoot 1/2" plates that are dished slightly and angled downward, to help deflect the bullet. Even so, there is always a small area of the plate that is perpendicular to the path of the bullet, and can cause backwards deflection.

I wear very good safety glasses and shoot from at least 20 yards, because I have had pieces come back and hit me in the face. I shoot mostly .45's, and the fragments have never hit hard enough to break the skin.

I see others shooting much closer than that, but I am not comfortable with less than 20 yards. Besides, I'm an 'aim small' guy, so the longer distance suits my practice philosophy just fine.


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## blackdog3 (Jan 6, 2010)

I understand what you are talking about when you say they are dished slightly, do you think a small town welding/iron shop would be able to perform that? Lets say you were really shooting at a dish, are you shooting into it or the back of it?????


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

Mild steel targets invariably get hit by a high velocity jacketed round which generates a crater. There is always someone in the crowd that just has to do it. Cratering causes bounce back.

That is the reason commercially made steel targets are made from hardened steel which is more expensive than common cold or hot roll.

Home made is OK if everybody can resist temptation and only shoot lead or at least non magnum pistol loads.

I have used targets like zhurdan mentioned and have experienced some bounce back. I believe it is when material bounces off the legs.We always set steel no mater what design at least 10 yards out, preferably 15.


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