# Reloading 9mm



## Steveandbelinda (Dec 18, 2013)

I am just getting into reloading. Only 9mm at his time. I just picked up my new Lee Pro 1000 the other day. I went by some videos on YouTube about setting up your dies. I bought setup for 9mm and thought that maybe the dies were setup, since they were already installed, so I called Lee, and they said they should be checked. When it finishes a load, it doesn't seem to crimp it any, because you can feel the lip/edge of the the brass. Does 9mm need to be crimped?


----------



## TurboHonda (Aug 4, 2012)

I usually taper crimp 9mm only to the extent needed to remove the flare that I created to seat the bullet. I do it as a seperate step.


----------



## noylj (Dec 8, 2011)

Can't separate steps on a 3-station press.
Read the instructions and watch the Lee videos on setting up the seating die to seat and crimp. Personally, I would rather charge the case off the press than combine those two steps.
Basically, raise the seating stem all the way up. Loosen the lock rind and turn the seating die body up 3-4 turns. Place a flared case in the press and raise the ram. Lower the seating die body down until you feel it contact the case. Raise it up 1-2 turns. Lower the ram, place a bullet on the case, and raise the ram. Lower the seating stem down to contact the bullet. Lower the bullet/case a little and turn the seating stem 2 turns. Raise the ram and seat the bullet. Measure the COL. If you have a target COL, seat the bullet to that COL. Raise the seating stem all the way up. Turn the seating die body down 1/2 turn and raise ram with the dummy round. You may feel resistance as the round hits the crimp section of the die. Lower the ram and inspect the round. Is there still any case mouth flare? If so, turn the die body down 1/2 turn and repeate the crimp operation. Keep adjusting until you don't see or feel the case mouth flare.
Tun this dummy round in your gun to see if it chambers. If it does, return it to the ram, raise the ram, turn the lock ring down to lock the seating die body, and turn the seating stem down to contact the bullet and lock it.
If the round doesn't chamber, paint the bullet and case with black Magic Marker and remove the barrel. Drop the round in the barrel and rotate it back-and-forth. Remove the round and inspect.
1) Scratches on the bullet--COL is too long
2) Scratches at case mouth--still too much flare--increase the crimp
3) Scratches on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to too little case expansion (shouldn't be a problem is you have case mouth flare and you are using the correct PTE die)
4) Scratches above the extractor groove--case has or had a bulge. You'll need to get a Lee Bulge Buster kit and, for 9x19 and 9x21, you will need a 9mm MAK FCD.

Don't manuals still cover all this?


----------



## Pistol Pete (Jan 8, 2010)

You'll find that it is better to taper crimp as a 4th operation. I have RCBS dies that "taper crimp when the bullet is seated", it deforms the nose of the bullet because the bullet stops while still moving in to the die. With a 3 hole press you could do the crimp in a single stage press after seating the bullet. It's what I did on the single stage for 45. I now have a progressive with 4 holes.


----------

