# New Buckmark Owner - cleaning problem



## freddc1 (Apr 19, 2015)

Hi 
picked up new buckmark and love it. The dealer didn't recommend taking apart for cleaning and just use a bore snake. I've been through at least a thousand rounds in last couple weeks and decided to take it apart figuring i better learn how to do it. It went ok accept the big hex screw that holds the barrel in was a bear to get loose but eventually took it apart and gave a nice cleaning. the problem began with reassembly and the long firing pin spring. Apparently the little retainer came loose when i disassembled it and i didn't see it. i finally noticed the tiny clip on the floor and was able to collapse the spring and get the clip back on and put everything together. This is the very short version of what was a major pain. My question is can i get spare parts, and if so who might be a good source. i did find a few places on line but all said "sold out". thank you.


----------



## berettatoter (Sep 1, 2011)

You checked Brownell's and Midway USA? How bout Brownings website?


----------



## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

I would call Browning.

Just a heads up - there is no reason real to remove the barrel on the Buckmark. If you start screwing and unscrewing that screw a lot, you may have problems down the line. I've seen that issue come up before on the rimfire forum years ago.

I previously had a Buckmark, and I switched from a 4" barrel to a 5.5" one. That was the ONLY time I ever removed the barrel. To clean the barrel, I only ever used a boresnake. But, I never shot straight lead rounds thru it. If you have to use a borebrush, you kind of have to push it in from the front - because that back support for the slide prevents you from pushing a rod down the barrel from the rear. Pulling the barrel to run a brush down it the normal way may seem like the thing to do, but as stated - you have a good chance you may end up with some threading issues if you do it too many times

I shot mostly CCI Minimags, and I didn't get lead buildup that required special cleaning.

As for disassembly or the slide and spring - you get the hang of it a little better as time goes on.


----------



## freddc1 (Apr 19, 2015)

Thanks for advice. i did pick up a .22 boresnake but was under the impression they were just a temporary "field" remedy until you got home to give the rifle or shotgun a proper cleaning. Sounds like they do the job however. I am old school and even with a little cone on the cleaning rod, i dont feel good about pushing it down the muzzle end. i'll stick with the bore snake for now and see how it goes. Thank you.


----------



## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

If you shoot quality ammo, the boresnake alone is fine. I had a Buckmark for several years - before I finally sold it to use the $ for another gun. I only ever used a boresnake. I did clean the gun after every range trip, though. Never left it dirty.

On carbines, it's all I ever use. I had two PS90s before. Only used the boresnake. Same with a Steyr AUG I prev had, and with a SCAR 16 I have now. I don't shoot steel case ammo or anything with a lacquer on the casing. Boresnake works fine on the barrel. And, I only use Breakfree CLP, except on the piston itself for my SCAR


----------



## freddc1 (Apr 19, 2015)

The good news is absolutely love shooting the .22 vs. the larger calibers, cheaper, no flinch, no soreness, highly accurate,etc, etc. etc. However, even with what i think is relatively good ammo, the chamber area gets incredibly dirty. Find even after couple hundred rounds at range the face on the slide may not close 100% (not sure on terminology) and i need to clean out some crud and/or put some lube on the ramp area. Seems to work. It's also amazing how accurate these little guns are.


----------



## Scorpion8 (Jan 29, 2011)

I agree with the above, no need to remove the barrel. I use a bore-snake on my 3 Buckmarks, and a small nylon toothbrush and some CLP to get in and scrub the inside. The chamber area on any 22 rimfire will get dirty no matter what ammo you use, its just a fact of life.


----------



## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Yes, they (22lr guns) do take a little more cleaning - but I usually use CLP and those cloth bore patches + the boresnake.


----------



## buckmark65 (Feb 21, 2015)

agree 22LR burns dirty --- use Hoppe's love portion#9 oil .. dry snake down / solvent & 
toothbrush / patches / compressed air / silicon cloth


----------



## Baklash (Jan 12, 2014)

I have a new Buckmark and decided to order a few spare parts, that little c clip/recoil spring retaining ring you and a zillion others have lost, some extra sight base screws, plastic buffers, and a complete recoil spring guide rod assembly,etc. including a couple barrel screws. I can tell you that ordering the complete recoil assembly is much cheaper (about 1/2) than ordering each of the parts separately. Also, the Browning website parts are much cheaper than either Brownells or Midway. However, the Browning parts schematic is piss poor compared to the schematic on Midway. So I use the Midway schematic and then order from Browning. I have a bore snake, but prefer to remove the barrel so I can run a rod down thru it. I have heard of problems with bore snakes bunching up and almost impossible to remove, especially 22's. The Buckmark barrel is extremely difficult to remove because the 7/64" hex screw is cemented in with a commercial version of red Loctite. I first tried it with a high quality T-handle allen wrench with the ball type head. Wouldn't budge and the wrench would just spin because of the ball head. If you decide to remove the barrel, make sure you get a quality hex with the flat end, not the ball end. Even then it will be tough, because Browning definitely does not want you to remove that barrel. Other than that the Buckmark is not complicated to strip. Yes, it requires a 3/32" hex for the top rail screws, and a 7/64" for the barrel screw. Just find a decent video on YouTube to help you out.


----------

