# Lee Auto Prime



## kev74 (Mar 22, 2008)

Does anyone have a hint or two for setting up / running the Lee primer set-up on the Pro 1000 press? If I go too quick, I tend to get a flipped primer in the feed ramp. And when there are just a few primers left in the tray, it just about stops working all together.

From what I have read, this seems to be the weak part of the system. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something before I do something drastic. 

Any comments or words of encouragement are appreciated. :watching:


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

1. Never let the primer stack go more than 3/4 inch below the input tray. Weight of the stack of primers is required to push them into position. Refill as soon as you can see the top primer come in to view below the input tray.

2 Keep the primer input zone clean. Occasional squirt of canned air will remove small debri elements from the area. 

I prime in a seperate pass from powder and bullet insertion. any powder that falls into the primer track will cause problems.

I actualy load in three passes.

1. Remove old primers then clean in Cob or Shell tumbler
2. Prime clean cases
3. Load powder and bullet

Stage 1 and 2 use the primer punch and sizing die. The punch will remove old primer (1) and Cob or Shell stuck in the primer hole (2).

The three passes will still allow you to load several hundred cartridges per hour. Punching primers out or in you can cycle approx 100 cases in 3 to 4 minutes. loading the input tubes is significantly faster if you have purchased the red plastic "Collator".

Cleaning cases after primer removal will improve reliability of cartridges to fire on first hit.

I cut the outer wall of the output chute away starting about 1 " back from its front to improve flow of empty cases into the box I catch them in. 

Try to develop a rhythm when cycling the lever. I move moderately fast through the up stroke and push a little bit harder when I feel the primer. Don't hit the end of stroke hard as it is possible to set a primer off, or so I have been told. I haven't set one off in around 20,000 or so primers.

I hope this helps. I know you will get the hang of it pretty quick.

PS: I forgot to ask, what caliber are you starting with?


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## Redwolf (Nov 29, 2008)

I hand prime mine prior to loading powder and bullets


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## The_Vigilante (Aug 29, 2008)

I deprime and prime separately from my Loadmaster using a Lee Single Stage Classic Press and Lee Safety prime to avoid any priming problems on the Loadmaster. May take longer and defeat the purpose of the Loadmaster but I have the time but don't have the time or patience to fiddle with the Loadmaster Priming system. YMMV


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## kev74 (Mar 22, 2008)

TOF said:


> I hope this helps. I know you will get the hang of it pretty quick.
> 
> PS: I forgot to ask, what caliber are you starting with?


Thanks for the help. I started with 9mm and soon hope to start on .380 when I get the hang of things.

Out of my first couple of tries, I got about 60 good cartridges, about 20 with the primers not fully seated and a bunch of missing primers.

When I got the hang of feeling the primer seat, things went a lot smoother. But I started getting some primer feed issues when there were about 10 primers left in the tray (the feed tube still full). I have the hose for my air compressor stationed right next to my loading bench and have gotten into the habit of giving the primer area a little blast every so often.

Tonight I'll try seating the primers on the first round, then filling powder and seating on the second round.


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

Any debri at all in the primer transfer area will prevent the primer fully entering and aligning with the case pocket. If not aligned they may rotate on their side or be squashed in various ways.

Also, don't allow any oil grease or whatever to contaminate the track the primers travel down. Air compressors can end up with oil and water in the air. That is why I always keep a can of air next to my rig.

The right rear steel post has V grooves cut into its surface. There is a steel pin that should be in the plastic primer track which should drag on the surface of the post imparting a small shock to the primer system as it travels up and down. If the small pin is not installed correctly it may not be generating the shock which helps gravity move primers into position. A dab of grease on the post surface will make it last longer. The post costs, if memory serves, $4.00 and will wear out eventualy so if you order any parts get a spare or 2.

Cases which have been tumbled in Corn Cob or Walnut Shells will have media particles in the thru hole of some cases. These particles will occasionaly find their way into the primer zone so an occasional spurt of canned air wether you are experiencing problems or not are definitely in order.

The instruction sheet says to oil all moving metal parts with 20 wt oil. That is IMHO counterproductive. 20 Wt seems to migrate into areas such as the primer zone causing prime problems. I use very small qty of Rem Oil on the center shaft and on the large verticle push rod at bottom of the machine.

If oil has gotten on the plastic primer feed system use a bit of plastic safe spray solvent (Birchwood synthetic safe Gun Scrubber or alchohol) to remove all contaminates.

Once you get the hang of it a little burst of air every 100 primers to clean the area is about all it will take.

The system is designed such that you have to reload primers and cases plus check powder at about 100 cartridge intervals which makes a 100 cycle clean up schedule fit right in.

At this point I may have one primer out of 500 or more seat incorrectly and can always feel when it happens. You will ultimately be able to prime about as fast as you can pull the handle.

Have fun.


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## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

TOF has covered all the bases. Powder flakes in the priming system is what usually causes me problems. A quick blow out will solve it though. If you read back through the directions I seem to remember something along the lines of always refilling the priming tray as soon as the last primer starts down the shoot. The weight of the stacked primers is what keeps them feeding.


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## kev74 (Mar 22, 2008)

Thanks again. I didn't think about oil & water from the compressor. I'll switch to canned air.

When I notice the flipped primers, they're flipped in the primer feed tube - before they make it to the seating mechanism. I'm going to clean the track and check it for any burs tonight.


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

Make absolutely certain they are all anvil up, cup down in the tray when you place the lid on. If wrong side up the square edges will resist sliding in the plastic tube and are guaranteed to produce a defective round be it upside down or sideways in addition to reducing pressure on other primers causing them to not slide into insertion position properly.

I use a pair of curved sharp tip surgical tweezers to prevent any spilling while inserting the load tray in the delivery tube. They are also usefull for flipping primers that don't wish to shake into position before putting the lid on.


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## kev74 (Mar 22, 2008)

TOF - Thanks for the hint about priming first. I did that and it worked great. 

I've noticed that most of the loose powder that gets into the works comes as the shell holder advances from the powder fill to the bullet seat/crimp station. It seems like the dry weather is making the powder extra sensitive to any static charge that is around. If I keep things going slow and easy, the press stays a lot neater.


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