# polishing?



## AC_USMC 03

I want to polish some parts on my Glock 23. after about 1500 rnds the trigger is still a little rough and have heard a few gun guru's talk about polishing parts on the gun to fix this.

Can anyone give me a little help on this topic. Maybe a few pics of what to polish and what polishing tools I would need?

Thanks in advance.


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## Ram Rod

A lot of folks use Flitz metal polish among other things. Google the 'five cent trigger job' and you'll find more.


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## jimmy

Ram Rod said:


> A lot of folks use Flitz metal polish among other things. Google the 'five cent trigger job' and you'll find more.


I recently purchased a Glock 17 and was surfing the net and came across this 25 cents Glock trigger job..Which is basically polishing some internal components..Is it really worth the effort..Does it really smooth the trigger..Any bod has tried it and observed a difference..i would really like to hear fro the Glock guru's if they have tried this polishing procedure and if they recommend it..thanks.


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## DevilsJohnson

I use metal polish and sometimes jewelers rouge to polish parts. and yes it will improve your trigger. Smooth parts have no little nicks and/or tool marks to hang on.


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## onebigelf

jimmy said:


> I recently purchased a Glock 17 and was surfing the net and came across this 25 cents Glock trigger job..Which is basically polishing some internal components..Is it really worth the effort..Does it really smooth the trigger..Any bod has tried it and observed a difference..i would really like to hear fro the Glock guru's if they have tried this polishing procedure and if they recommend it..thanks.


In my experience (OK, 3 Glocks, not a HUGE sample but still...) this makes a bigger difference on the Glock than any of the modifications that you will pay real money for. Polishing the internals and an absolutely first rate holster are, IMO, the 2 absolute necessities for a Glock you are going to carry.


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## hetzer

The correct way to alter trigger pull on the Glock is to install a lighter connector (3.5 lbs) and keep it lightly lubed. The Glock isn't a 1911! No files or stones. Glock internal parts are nitrate coated for wear. If the coating is worn off that means that part is no good (exposing soft metal) and needs to be replaced or your gun will not go bang when you need it to. Trust me on this. I took my basic L.E. armory class with Ted Yost (You may know him as the head gunsmith at Gunsite) and I went through the advanced armorers class for Glock. Polishing internals on a Glock is a bad thing. Spend the money and get the 3.5 lb connector.


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## Tap & Rack

First off, I do not recommend any alteration of the Glock trigger for Duty or personal defense carry Glocks.

Trigger jobs can be done to greatly improve the Glock trigger for competitive and range shooting. Below is some information.

Here is just one of the various links on Glock trigger jobs:

The $0.25 Glock trigger job

To improve the Glock trigger pull, I've added performance spring kits, use 3.5# connectors that are sold by Ghost and Lone Wolf and polish up of the 5 critical movement points in the trigger group and safety plunger.

Do a search on "You Tube" for *$.25 Glock trigger job* to learn the areas on the trigger to polish with Flitz Polish. Also, make sure to leave a very light coat of white grease on the point where the connector contacts the trigger bar. (* This is the only point in the frame ANY lube is to be applied in a Glock* ).

T&R

Glock Armorer


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## Glock Doctor

Of late, I'm getting a good laugh from the mystique that's growing up on the 25 cent trigger job. Here's how to do it; however, I'll echo the above mentioned warning against modifying ANY handgun including a Glock.

If you're not familiar with gunsmithing processes, or have never attempted anything like this before then, at the very least, you should have your work checked by an experienced Glock armorer - OK.

1. You CAN use nothing more than Q-Tips; they'll give you a, 'half-decent' trigger job. For a beginner, this may be the only, 'right way' to go; however, for someone with mechanical know-how, a Dremel Tool will do a greatly improved job.

In my opinion, using a Dremel Tool is the only way to go; but, in all fairness, I've worked with one for the past 25 years. I know what I'm doing; and, nothing else polishes up or smoothes the action out as well.

Apply Flitz Metal Polish, sparsely, to the Dremel pad, not the part, and run the tool at 4 to 5 thousand RPM. Dremel offers, at least, 3 different shaped polishing tips. I use ALL of them. (The cloth last the longest.)

2. Work bare-handed. That way you can feel heat build up in the part and will know when to back off and let it cool down.

3. How fast the Dremel Tool runs is inconsequential. It's how hard you bear down with it that really matters. You do NOT want to use heavy hand pressure. Neither should you spend more than a few seconds on any square edge.

4. The Alpha Rubicon instructions will tell you exactly where to polish. However, more than any other area I have found the best Glock triggers come from the most highly polished FP safeties, AND the top edge of the trigger bar's FP safety cam. (Bump)

It's worth your time to use a fine grit diamond knife sharpening rod on the very top of the FP safety cam. The smoother it is the smoother your trigger is going to be.

If you're not comfortable with lightly filing and polishing the top of the safety cam, an easy substitution that gives an equal (or, perhaps, better result) is to simply install a convex, 'Lightning Strike' FP safety in the slide.

5. Be extra careful to keep the sear plate's edges nice 'n square. Do what I told you above and do not bear down, hard, on these parts when you're working on them; and remember to work bare-handed.

6. There are two edges on the trigger bar you might want to put a forward bevel on; but, again, only if you know how: You know those two drop safety wings on each side of the sear plate? The front edges (toward the muzzle) will slide out of the drop safety slots just a little bit faster, and a little bit smoother, if you put a very slight (/) bevel on them.

7. When I polish a Glock's action, I polish everything; and I, also, swap out the trigger return and FP springs with Wolff's 6#, 'extra power' springs. With the exception of Ghost Inc., I've tried all of the popular connectors; and, so far, nothing comes close to the superlative 4.5# Lone Wolf unit - It rebounds better and is just the best.

8. While you've got the trigger bar out of the frame, use the aforementioned (flat) diamond knife sharpening rod to take off the lower tip of the plastic trigger safety and make that annoying thing perfectly flush with the trigger's face.

NEVER REMOVE THE WHOLE TRIGGER SAFETY FROM YOUR GLOCK. DOING SO WILL CREATE A REAL SAFETY ISSUE IN OTHER AREAS OF THE PISTOL.

9. Remember to polish the lock block and barrel lugs. When you use the pistol, you might be surprised at the result.

10. Very few people understand; and it's not one of my missions in life to explain the reasons, 'Why'; but, I use Wolff metal guide rods in ALL of my third generation Glocks.

11. The final, 'pièce de résistance' is the use of Sentry Solutions, 'Hi-Slip' Grease on ALL the principal contact areas.

A lot of people have asked me what I do to my Glock triggers in order to make them so incredibly smooth. This is one of the few times I've really told anyone. It ain't hard. There's no mystique to it. A little care and common sense will get you through just fine.

If you screw up it's no big deal; just buy some more Glock parts; but, if you screw up, I'll bet one of two things happened: Either you applied too much hand pressure, or you held the Dremel's polishing head in the same spot for too long. Work bare-handed like I said; and don't press down, hard, on the square edges.

(I guess it's OK for someone with less Dremel experience to use a lower RPM speed on the Dremel Tool. I think back when I started out I might have run at a lower speed, too.)

NOTE: Metal polishing can be an absolutely filthy thing to have to do. I always wear old clothes and put a worn out towel on top of the bench before I turn the Dremel Tool on. When you're finished, and BEFORE you reassemble the pistol, you can clean your hands up with Goop Hand Cleaner or dishwashing liquid and Ajax Scouring Powder.

I, also, use Sentry Solutions, 'Smooth Kote' on the feed ramp and inside the bore. Then, I try to give it a good 3 days to completely dry before I use the gun. I've had guys with $2,000 dollar Kimbers on their belts try one of my Glocks and, then, make a remark like, 'I don't know what you did; but that's NOT a Glock.' Yes, it is! 

Sentry Solutions | On guard against corrosion, friction and wear 
Wolff Gunsprings - Firearm Springs for Semi-Auto Pistols, Revolvers, Rifles, & Shotguns 
Lone Wolf Distributors - Main Page 
Titanium Safety Plunger For Glock~ Small Safety Plunger - Lightning Strike (Use the right size.)


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## EliWolfe

Interesting post and replies. I personally leave gunsmithing to the gunsmiths. The Glock trigger is not as bad as some other pistols I've shot, in fact, I don't consider it "bad" at all. That said, I have screwed up more than one gun over the past 45 years trying to make it "better'. So now I am an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" type of guy. And if it needs fixxing, I let someone who has the skills to do it right the first time handle it. JMVHO, Eli


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## zhurdan

I think if people honestly assessed their own skill level, they'd realize that it's not the trigger/sear that needs polishing.

More often than not, people look for solutions to problems that are software (shooter) related by trying to "fix" the hardware (gun).

I've got pretty much all stock triggers in all my guns and they work just fine, fast, and accurate.


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## Pecos Bill

All good information but I have to agree about any modifications to Glock parts. And, if you have an issue, you open yourself up for liability. Lubricating a glock is also not a good idea, the whole idea is to not do it so they don't collect dirt.
So what do I do? easy. Remember that Q-tip mentioned above? I buy teflon shotgun choke lubricant. Spray the q-tip, put it on some parts, let it dry really good. No oil or grease to collect dirt, but a thin coating of slippery. Trigger is smoother without modifications and the pull is still at factory, just smooth.


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## Cat

People do not read what the makers say. Funny how people won't to fix a pistol that works right. Glock puts out so much money on research in to their pistols. And people won't to fix a pistol that is perfect.

Now if you won't a new look,Look here---GPI Is one of the best gun smith I ever seen.Custom work.
Look at his work, Lot of pics. GPI Custom Gunworks Home

All I know is,When I don't know to much about the pistol or rifle.I will call the manufacturer first and ask what I'm working on. And go from there. I get a lot of help that way. And 9 out of 10- The parts that your pistol comes with,Most of the time is the best to keep on them. And if anything is not right, They let us know about on their site. And keep in mine that the manufacturer puts out a lot of money on testing.

Just like the plug on the glock, I called glock and ask them about this. It is fine to put a plug in, If you won't one. They said to me, The pistol works the same with a plug. They said the hole was to put the pistol on a pole, So they don't lay down on their side. Like if you like the look on top of a bookshelf stand up.

Cat.


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## Blackhawkman

Go to YouTube and search for 25 cent polish job on a Glock. Good video

I have all stock trigger parts on all my glocks. They will get better as you shoot them more. My 19's triggers is nice and smooth. It does have a 3.5# minus trigger connector and a ".25 cent polish job" on it. It helped a bunch. 
Cait43's post on Glock triggers is dead on. I learned it! you can too!

JMHO FWIW

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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