# Thinking about reloading



## joepolo

Hello everyone I'm in the process of looking for a press. Any thoughts would help. I'm leaning towards a Lee 1000 progressive, Anybody have one , and how do they work. Another question is how important is the factory crimp, I noticed the 1000, only has 3 dies in it. another one is the classic turret kit, which comes with everything except the dies. This one has a 4 die system, but only 1 shell at a time, so each load has a total of 4 pulls on the press. I'm looking at Lee for now because of the price, and they seem pretty reliable. I didn't do a lot of research yet, seems to be a lot of different press's out there. Well anyway I was hoping for some insight. Thanks


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## hillman

My pseudo-humble suggestion is that you start out with a RCBS Rock Chucker (single stage press). Easier to get understanding of the reloading process down and imprinted in your mind. You don't actually _need_ a separate crimping die, because most seating dies have a crimp shoulder built in. Yes, I like my Lee Factory Crimp dies, but they are not really necessary most of the time.


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## wesjwa

I just started reloading this summer with a lee 4 whole turret press that came in a kit i got it at bass pro but cabelas is much much cheaper (it was a 20 dollar more at bass pro i had them price check everything) I like the turret press because you can set your dies and not have to reset them everytime you go to load another box or lot. I am just a beginner so please do much research on presses powders and loads don't just take my word for it.


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## Steve M1911A1

Lee progressive presses seem cheaply built and overly complex, but I admit that I've never used one.

I began many, many years ago with a Lyman "tong tool." It was cheap, but very well made, and it turned out good ammunition without a fuss.
However, it is no longer available. Instead, you might try _Lee's single-stage bench press_. (I use one to full-length-resize rifle cases.) It should make acceptable ammunition too.

From the Lyman "tong tool," I graduated to a Lyman turret press. As *wesjwa* says, "you can set your dies and not have to reset them everytime you go to load another box."
However, _using a turret press is almost as slow as using a single-stage press_. Soon you will hunger for a progressive press.

The very best progressive press, nowadays, will come from Dillon. I believe that even their cheapest model works better than anyone-else's.
I bought their next-to-cheapest progressive press more than 35 years ago, and it's still going strong. It has never needed either repair or adjustment.


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## joepolo

Thanks guys. Steve I was looking at the Dillon's, but starting off the Lee gives you a whole package that would make it easier to get started. The single stage is about 200, and all I'll need is the different dies, Where the dillon I would have to buy every thing separate. I do know you get what you pay for, but starting off I'd rather spend a little less. That way if I find out it's something I might not want to do, I won't be out a lot of money.


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## PracticalShooter

First, as every reloader will tell you, you don't reload to save money, because you end up shooting more, a lot more, for a lot less money.
Now, I would suggest you to start with a simple single press, because it gets you used to all the steps of reloading. 
Mine is the Lee Challenger press. I reload about 1000 rounds a month with it. It is always a pleasure to get by yourself and make your own rounds, one at a time.
It usually take me one hour to deprime/resize 1000 rounds of 9mm. So one hour during a quiet evening.
An other hour to expand all those the case. 
Using a hand priming tool, another hour to prime those cases.
Loading the powder and seating the ogive takes longer, 200 rounds an hour.
Finally, crimping takes another hour. I have shot some ammo without crimping them and haven't seen any difference, but I do it anyway.
So, to reload 1000 rounds, it takes me around 9 to 10 hours. But its always relaxing and enjoyable to reload.
I try to reload more during the winter, when the weather keeps you inside for a while.
Money wise,1000 rounds of 9mm (last time I check) will cost you about $240.
As long as I have free brass, it cost me about $130 for the same 1000 rounds.
Single press vs progressive end up being how much ammo do you want to make and how much time do you want to reserve to reloading.


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## Steve M1911A1

...However, you don't really save money by reloading.
If you figure-in your time (at whatever rate you normally get paid), you don't really break even, either.

But if you're practicing for practical-shooting competition, as I once did, you shoot hundreds (and occasionally thousands) of practice rounds each week.
Unless you're bankrolled by some commercial sponsor, you need to reload to save your own cash. Instead of cash, you contribute time.

In cases like mine used to be, a progressive press that needs little or no maintenance or adjustment is worth its weight in gold.
However, if you shoot 50 or 100 rounds a week, a progressive press is nice to have, but it's not a necessity.
But without one, the work takes more than three times longer. (Been there, done that.)


Two Things:
1. Reloading time was great "bonding time" with my daughter, who was my chief assistant from the time she was about five. Involve your kids in the job, and teach them to be careful, thoughtful, and precise while you're all having fun together.
2. Don't let reloading become a hobby unto itself, so that you're shooting only as a means of unloading cartridges to feed your reloading hobby. Shooting is a useful skill that needs maintenance. Reloading isn't, and doesn't.


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## joepolo

I do realize I won't save money,but I just can't see letting all them empty shell's go waisted. I think I'll be able to shoot a lot more for the same amount of money I'm spending. That's my biggest reason for reloading. Right now the 9mm isn't bad Walmart still have some for under 10 dollars a box and they are brass case. My 40's and 380 are what is up there in price, so I've been trying to collect them when ever I could. I've been saving for about a month now and sometimes I'll get lucky and hit the range before somebody else cleans up. It's getting harder though people seem to be going to the range just for the spent brass.Well for now I think I'll be getting a Lee 4 hole turret kit seems to be the best deal, for the money. Any suggestions on a shell cleaner or are them just about the same.


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## Steve M1911A1

joepolo said:


> ...Any suggestions on a shell cleaner or are them just about the same.


I've got a rotary tumbler. It's s-l-o-w.
Get a vibrator-tumbler machine. It's quicker, and just as good at cleaning.


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## PracticalShooter

Steve M1911A1 said:


> I've got a rotary tumbler. It's s-l-o-w.
> Get a vibrator-tumbler machine. It's quicker, and just as good at cleaning.


How much faster is a vibrator-tumbler? I generally tumble my brass for about 2 hours.


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## Steve M1911A1

PracticalShooter said:


> How much faster is a vibrator-tumbler? I generally tumble my brass for about 2 hours.


I _think_ (but do not _know_) that the vibratory kind does the same work in about half of the time.

(My brass seems to want to be tumbled for three hours or more.)


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## Blackhawkman

I would start out with the RCBS single stage press. The Rock Chucker is a good choice. I have one and they work good. Learn on this then go to a progressive later on. I would not go with a Lee tho. Check out Dillon presses. They have great customer service and a Tech Line which helps out alot! I do my pistol loading on a Dillon Square Deal B. This press works great for me. jmo


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## Bisley

The Lee progressive system has always had mixed reviews, with a slight lean toward the negative. However, the 4 hole turret system is a good setup because you can buy the extra turrets and leave your dies setup, merely changing the turrets. I have one for loading handgun rounds, and I have also used it for rifle rounds. I prefer the RCBS single stage for rifle ammo, though. The turret press uses a cheaply made powder-through-die system that requires you to convert volume/weight numbers, but it's not hard to figure out, and despite looking cheap, it just keeps on working, if you don't get too heavy-handed when tightening the screws. I have loaded thousands of rounds with mine, and haven't broken it yet. Also, the primer attachments look cheap, but work OK, and have been more durable than I expected.

Overall, I have been quite happy with the Lee turret system, and Lee dies. The Lee balance scale sucks - it's accurate enough, but will drive you crazy with it's blurry numbers and constant re-leveling. Get a RCBS balance scale for about $80 and you will think it's wonderful, after using the Lee scale for a while.

The best reloading tool I have is the RCBS Chargemaster system, but it costs over $300 and you need to be a high volume rifle reloader to really benefit from it.


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## joepolo

The Lee 4 hole turret press is the one I'm looking at. I've tried to look for bad reviews on it, and found out theres not many out there, but I know that doesn't mean much. I like the kit you can get with it, all you need is a set of dies, to complete the system. To me it seems to be between the single stage and progressive presses. It still will let you go slow enough to understand each step, without changing the dies, I like that part cause starting off I like to see whats happing in each step. For right now all I have to reload is 3 different size handguns, so all I'll need is the turrets and die's and I'll be able to switch sizes in no time. I'm not to worried about speed, I could always find spare time to reload. Like I said still looking into it, nothings out yet. Just the Lee seems to be the best deal so far. Again Thanks for all the info guy's.


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## slayer61

I like my Lee classic turret press, but i have nothing to compare it with. I wanted ammo faster than a single stage could produce, but I didn't want the complication of a progressive either. I currently reload 9, 40, 45 and 10mm. I recently started shooting 357 Sig and I'm pondering getting a single stage for it due to the added complication of a shouldered cartridge. 

Shoot safe fellas.


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## PracticalShooter

Other than the press, Joepolo, you will need a few more items.
You can go the way of the kit, but part of every kits are items you gone use and some you will never use.
So my take on this is, get everything YOU NEED separate.
You will need a scale. I like my Frankford Arsenal Reloading Scale $30
You will also need a powder measure. You can go with lee $30. Some members like the RCBS.
A set of dies.
If you go the way of the single press, I would suggest the hand primer $30. It speed up the entire process.
Don't forget a tumbler, some media and a media separator.
A caliper $20, and finally, a must have, a bullet puller $20.
For the rest, containers, Ziploc bags and buckets of different sizes can be added any time as you need them.
Lots of soap, your hands are going to get very dirt when handling those brass. Personally, I use gloves.
One more point.
As someone said, "if your house or bedroom is always a mess, reloading is not for you". You better be clean and organized, or your reloading station can get messy and dangerous very fast.


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## noylj

I owned a RockChucker. Never happier to sell a press.
First: buy some manuals and read them and learn about reloading and what YOU want to do. For handguns, you can't beat getting a copy of the out-of-print "Handloading for Handgunners" for a real over-view of reloading.
Second: Press
If you want a single-stage press, get the Lee Challenger Breech-lock press. The die bushings are a god-send and the press is as good as almost any other single-stage press (the only one I consider significantly better is the Forster Co-Ax). The Rock-Chucker is an over-weight, over-built press made for swaging bullets that throws spent primers all over the floor. It was good back in the fifties, but...
If you want a "progressive," determine how many die stations YOU need/want. I needed five back in the late '70s when I bought the Hornady. At that time, it was:
1) resize/decap (which involved buying new dies as the old die sets did the decapping with the expander die)
2) expand/flare case mouth
3) charge case (there were no powder-through expander dies)
4) seat
5) crimp
With my single-stage, I had determined that my loads were more accurate if the seating and crimping operations were separate. Since I reload for accuracy, this was important.
Currently, with 5-stages, the set-up is:
1) resize
2) expand/flare/charge case
3) RCBS Lock-Out die
4) seat 
5) crimp.

You can reload with a three die press, but you have to seat and crimp in one step and you can not use any sort of powder check die, so it becomes even more critical that you inspect every charged case before placing a bullet on it. Then, every progressive press has problems with priming and Lee has had their fair share of issues. Use Google for reviews and such.
Best advice is to start simple and learn what you want to add on. This is where a kit can be excellent.
What you need:
press
dies
method to prime cases (a $10 Lee Ram-Prime does the job as well as any priming system, but it is slow)
method to weigh out or dispense a safe powder charge. Today, buy a decent scale for about $50 and weigh your charges to start with. I use the Lee PTE dies often during load development for expand the case, flare the case mouth, and, with a Lee powder funnel stuck on the top, pour the powder into the case. Later you can get a powder measure.
If loading bottleneck cases, you need to use a Lee case trimmer after sizing or you need a way to determine case length (calipers work well) and a case trimmer. This is NOT needed for straight-wall cases

Hand-primer: see no advantage, unless all you have is a manually-fed ram-prime, where you put each primer in the cup by hand, and not a primer system that uses primer tubes. I used an RCBS bench-mounted primer when I had single-stage presses, and it was fast and very consistent. Tried a hand-priming tool and found it slow, awkward, and irritated my arthritis.
Tumbler: not needed. Wipe off the case exterior and you are done. It is nice to have, but not a needed piece of equipment. New reloaders are so OCD about case cleanliness. If you have a tumbler, use 20/40 corn and that is all you'll need.
Calipers: very useful and good to have. Again, not needed (folks reloaded for decades without them), but useful and inexpensive enough that there is no excuse not to have one.


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## joepolo

Well finally got my press, Lee Classic turret kit. Got it from Brownells for 175.00, picked up some Winchester 231, CCI primers, and Hornady HP. Looks like tommorow I'll be learnig how to load. Right now I'll just be doing 9mm, soon I'll get some more dies. Again Thanks for all the feedback.


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## Argon18smith

Congratulations on becoming a fellow reloader. I hope you find it as enjoyable as I do. Many moons ago I purchased an RCBS single stage press (not a Rock Chucker) and it has worked great. I started reloading for 22-250 cal. There were so many bullet and powder variations it was incredible. I am now reloading 38/357 with the same press and have loaded thousands of rounds. I usually do 100 at a time to minimize the switching out of the dies although it only takes a few seconds with each. The longest time is spent setting the bullet depth (using the same die), between 38 and 357 cases. Being retired, time is not much of a factor when it comes to reloading. I spend a lot more time on the range than I do reloading - not that I talk a lot while I'm there.
Great input from everyone, thanks. If I ever decide to go big maybe I will get a Dillon.


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## joepolo

Well I Got my new bench made, not even finished . Went to work and came home to this. I told my wife she could have the top shelf and bottom, guess that meant all the shelves. LOL at least she let me build it.












Oh she told me she had to clean.


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## joepolo

Well I think it looks a little better all cleaned up, and finished. Got everything up and running so looks like tomorrow, I'll be trying my hand at reloading.


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## Steve M1911A1

Waaay cool!


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## Bisley

Nice setup.

I think the Lee balance scale is going to drive you batty, eventually, but I don't blame you for trying it out for yourself. The cheapest RCBS is 20x better, but the Lee is accurate enough if you have unlimited patience.


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## joepolo

Well started reloading today, and I must admit it's not as easy as I thought. The scale is a pain in the rear but it does work. My biggest problem came from the drum loader, it leaks.I took it apart twice and cleaned it but it still leaks not much at all but you can see the powder falling. So my question is does anybody have a lee drum feeder and does it leak. It is new so I might just call Lee and ask them what I can do. Well anyway thanks for all the input. Looking forward to reloading different cal.


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## noylj

Re: Lee Drum Measure. I would expect that Lee mentioned leakage and the need to completely clean the measure and adjust the tension to prevent leakage. If you are using it bench-mounted (rare these days), you can just put a piece of paper under it to catch the leakage.
You can also try, like most measures ask you to do, to run graphitized powder or even graphite powder through the measure to lube and possibly fill in machine marks.
A call to a manufacturer is never a bad thing.


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## Steve M1911A1

As I have previously stated in other threads, I believe that Lee equipment is of low quality.
I suggest that this leakage problem with a Lee measure would not be happening with other makers' equipment.

Generally speaking, if you wish to use a balance scale, it should be equipped with a magnetic beam damper.
Nowadays, perhaps an electronic scale might be an even better choice.


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## joepolo

Well this should be my last update. I the drum measure working fine not leaking after 60 to 70 throws, weighed more then half of them and all seemed really close. The priming systemed works great, and the auto indexing makes it really easy. Just loaded about 25 9mm for now, til I get a chance to shoot them. Just want to make sure everything will work. Well thanks again guys different opinions mean alot, makes you check things out better.


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## Steve M1911A1

If it works for you, and doesn't give you hassles, then it's a good reloading set-up for you, regardless of who made it.



(I even kinda almost actually believe that! :mrgreen


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## Blackhawkman

I'd call your bench "Off Limits" to female personnel! When you get your press set up you'll find all kinds of stuff on YOUR loading bench! My MIL used to say snotty,"when you gonna clean this mess up?" I told her to go home and stay out of my room! A few other adjectives with 4 letters(so she could understand?) Nice bench ya got there! loose the cooler!


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## joepolo

Blackhawkman said:


> I'd call your bench "Off Limits" to female personnel! When you get your press set up you'll find all kinds of stuff on YOUR loading bench! My MIL used to say snotty,"when you gonna clean this mess up?" I told her to go home and stay out of my room! A few other adjectives with 4 letters(so she could understand?) Nice bench ya got there! loose the cooler!


Did you see the second set off pics, No cooler on it


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## joepolo

Well getting more comfortable with the reloading prosess. Got to do some 9's and 380. The scales not as bad as when I frist started, got used to it works pretty good. Only problem I have is the different spec's between all the different company's. Big one was the lenth of the case, should you trim or not, so I got a average between 4 different places and went with that. Not sure it's good or not, but every thing fired well, so I was happy. Another one is the COL I was suprized how different they are, the Lee book seems different then most. Anyway my bench is statring to fill up nicely.


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## Argon18smith

Has anyone tried to modify the Lee measuring spoons. I have thought about putting hot glue in the bottom of the larger ones so I only need one spoonful instead of one and a half from a smaller spoon. I was thinking the glue (once cooled) would still cause powder to stick to it. I guess, eventually, the powder would coat the glue and it would work. Has anyone used something else for "quick" measuring powder?


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## Steve M1911A1

How 'bout using a real powder measure?
Even the Lee measure has got to be better than using dippers.

Maybe if you glued-in a piece of plastic that closely fit the inside of the dipper, you wouldn't have a problem with powder sticking to the glue.
But accurately modifying a dipper would be a finicky, difficult job.

In the bad old days, we would make powder dippers for specific cartridges by using an actual once-fired cartridge (dead primer still in place) that was cut off to measure the specific amount of powder desired.
Put a weighed powder charge in the fired cartridge, and mark where it needs to be sawed off. Remove the powder, and hacksaw (and then file) the case down to size. Finally, wrap and solder a wire handle to the case, down in the extraction groove.


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## joepolo

Steve M1911A1 said:


> How 'bout using a real powder measure?
> Even the Lee measure has got to be better than using dippers.
> 
> Maybe if you glued-in a piece of plastic that closely fit the inside of the dipper, you wouldn't have a problem with powder sticking to the glue.
> But accurately modifying a dipper would be a finicky, difficult job.
> 
> In the bad old days, we would make powder dippers for specific cartridges by using an actual once-fired cartridge (dead primer still in place) that was cut off to measure the specific amount of powder desired.
> Put a weighed powder charge in the fired cartridge, and mark where it needs to be sawed off. Remove the powder, and hacksaw (and then file) the case down to size. Finally, wrap and solder a wire handle to the case, down in the extraction groove.


Gee I don't know Steve, kinda like the color think I'll keep them around to brighten up the place. I guess reloading came a long way since you started to reload. Must of been a pain driven the horse and buggy trying to reload the flint lock.:mrgreen:


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## Steve M1911A1

joepolo said:


> ...Must of been a pain...trying to reload the flint lock.:mrgreen:


Well, I gotta admit that I took my first deer with a caplock muzzleloading rifle that had been made in the 1820s, originally as a flintlock.
I was 19 (in 1957), and in college. I was hunting with my Philosophy professor, because his bow season coincided with my muzzleloader season.

To learn about that rifle, click on: http://guntoters.com/blog/2016/08/14/the-one-that-got-away-and-the-one-that-didnt/
Read item #2, "The Long Rifle."


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## Craigh

Steve M1911A1 said:


> Well, I gotta admit that I took my first deer with a caplock muzzleloading rifle that had been made in the 1820s, originally as a flintlock.


That is so cool, and I thought I took my first deer with an old rifle. It was an old US Military issued 30-40 Krag-Jørgensen made in the 1890s and part of my grandfather's collection. I was only 13, I think, and it was heavy and cumbersome up in that tree-stand. My dad had shot his first Elk in Utah with that same rifle. I gave that rifle to my grandson last year.


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## Steve M1911A1

I, too, had a Krag. I learned reloading while feeding it. (Age: 15.)
Stupid youth: I butchered that cherry Krag into a sporter-stocked deer rifle.
Worse: I never used it for hunting. I got bitten by the muzzleloader bug, so I traded it to a shade-tree gunsmith for a Manton double-barrel percussion shotgun.
Well, at least I still have that shotgun.

P.S.: I never was any good with a shotgun. I still ain't.


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## Craigh

Steve M1911A1 said:


> I, too, had a Krag. I learned reloading while feeding it. (Age: 15.)
> Stupid youth: I butchered that cherry Krag into a sporter-stocked deer rifle.
> Worse: I never used it for hunting. I got bitten by the muzzleloader bug, so I traded it to a shade-tree gunsmith for a Manton double-barrel percussion shotgun.


In many ways, we had a similar youth. On my father's side, we have a few traditions going back to shortly after some of my family members took a wagon from Missouri to Salt Lake. Some went to Florida just prior to the Civil War instead. The firearms tradition tended to be that a boy got a rifle, usually a 22, at 12 and pretty much our choice in shotguns on our 15th birthday. My choice back then was a FN Belgian made Browning Auto Light 12 humpback with the gold trigger (26" improved cylinder). It was because my 2nd cousin and best friend (still today) chose it the year before. I also gave that to my grandson last year with instructions he pass it on when he gets old.

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread. :smt179


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## joepolo

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread. :smt179[/QUOTE]

No reason to be sorry I enjoy reading the posts. A leason in history is allways a good thing.


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## Argon18smith

Thanks for the nudge Steve. I now have a bench mount Lee powder measurer and it seems to work well. I set it up for 4 grns of 231 and the loads are very consistent. It is definitely faster than any other method. I purchased a 9mm for Christmas and when it arrives I will post it.


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## Steve M1911A1

Argon18smith said:


> Thanks for the nudge Steve...


We endeavour to please, sir. -Jeeves, by P.G. Woodhouse


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## Argon18smith

Just finished loading 600 rnds of 9mm. That new Lee powder measure has cut my reloading time by 1/3 or as much as 1/2. Greatest invention since sliced bread.


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## joepolo

Well still using the Lee Classic Turret, little more then 5k reloaded now. Glad to say everything is working fine, only one squib round and that was when I first started. Only problem is picking up a 45, and building the ar, my bench is getting a little tight. Maybe time to reorganize or maybe expand. Just thought I'd give a quick feed back on my Lee. I still only used one powder so far Win 231, have good results and good accuracy. Think I'll be having to use a different one for the riffle, didn't do any 45's yet, but I'm going to try the 231. Anybody use the 231 for 45's. Just sitting around not much to do figured I might as well put a post out.


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## Steve M1911A1

WW231 works extremely well in the .45 ACP case.
I have always used, and still use, six grains of 231 under both 230gr RN and 200gr SWC bullets.

_However_...
Please note that most manuals recommend _less than six grains_ of 231, under a 230gr RN lead bullet.

Therefore, do not use my specific load.
Instead, follow the recommendations in the reloading manual that you now have.


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## joepolo

Thanks, I start low and work my way up to what I like. It seemed to work for my other loads.


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## Craigh

Steve M1911A1 said:


> Instead, follow the recommendations in the reloading manual that you now have.


I think I acquired two reloading manuals many years ago and prior to ever hand-loading a cartridge. My grandfather gave me a red book, and I can't remember what brand. I bought a Sierra. Later, I know I bought several others, one being a Hodgdon. He and my father carefully drove it home, you don't hand-load until you've studied it in manuals, noting the ballistics for various weights and measures. You then work your way carefully up (or down) to the load you chose.


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## Mowgli Terry

My handgun ammo is loaded on an older Dillon 550. It works great. It's long lived with excellent support. Would that machine be right for some body needing a hundred rounds or less a month?
I don't think so. However, for my smaller projects I find more and more Lee gear on my bench. This would include the drum power measure and collet dies and collet die sets. Lee gear is clever and innovative. RCBS stuff is built like a tank. A stout single stage press is a reloading basic. Good scales are a reloading basic. Reloading manuals are basic. Like the previous post, you will find basic loads that you can duplicate throughout your shooting career. Good luck and be safe.


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## Steve M1911A1

Mowgli Terry said:


> My handgun ammo is loaded on an older Dillon 550...


Mine, too.
It also does a good job on my rifle ammunition.


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## Mowgli Terry

In fact good rifle cartridges can be loaded on a 550. It is a good thing to look at the volume you are going to be loading of rifle cartridges. If I got into a black rifle everything would change. My volume of rifle loading is low and is easily done on a single stage press. Point is to find the right gear for the rounds you load.


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## PhuBai70

Mowgli Terry said:


> I don't think so. However, for my smaller projects I find more and more Lee gear on my bench. This would include the drum power measure and collet dies and collet die sets. Lee gear is clever and innovative.


I used a Lee Classic Turret Press for years and found it to be totally reliable. Being a single stage press it was much more repetitious and time consuming than a progressive press but I enjoyed reloading so I didn't mind. The main thing I liked about that press was being able to easily switch from one caliber to another. I mainly loaded 45 ACP, 45 Long Colt, 41 mag and 44 mag. I bought a replacement turret for each caliber and once I had screwed in, adjusted and locked down the dies I never had to repeat that process. When I was finished with one caliber I could remove the turret/dies and pop in another caliber and I was set to go.


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## Mowgli Terry

My Classic Turret Press is progressive but my progressive feature is not installed now. Right now it has the Lee drum power measure and factory crimp die installed in a turret. The Lee universal expander has a custom expander stem is also in this set up.. This arrangement is set up for loading lead bullets into .308. One of the benefits of Lee equipment is the many ways it can be used. I'd say that this press is ideal for loading handgun rounds. I don't think Mr. Lee had my kind of thing in mind when the press was designed. Swapping turrets for caliber change is a major benefit. Lee equipment gets more clever and useful each year. I''d encourage any newfer to take a serious look at Lee reloading gear.


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## PhuBai70

I mostly loaded for handguns but I did load some for my AR15, M1 30 Carbine and Blackhawk 30 Carbine. To me, the 30 Carbine looked like a straight wall casing but my brother-in-law said it was slightly tapered and should be lubed. 
Lubing the casings was the only part of reloading that I didn't enjoy. I don't know if there's any other way to do it but I used the lube pad that looked like an ink blotter.
I enjoyed and appreciated my Classic Turret Press and I would also recommend it to anyone interested in getting into reloading.


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## rustygun

PhuBai70 said:


> I mostly loaded for handguns but I did load some for my AR15, M1 30 Carbine and Blackhawk 30 Carbine. To me, the 30 Carbine looked like a straight wall casing but my brother-in-law said it was slightly tapered and should be lubed.
> Lubing the casings was the only part of reloading that I didn't enjoy. I don't know if there's any other way to do it but I used the lube pad that looked like an ink blotter.
> I enjoyed and appreciated my Classic Turret Press and I would also recommend it to anyone interested in getting into reloading.


Hornady one shot works well. I use it on my rifle brass. I do re tumble after sizing to remove it.


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## PhuBai70

Unfortunately, I stopped reloading quite some time ago. At the time I had an annual membership at an indoor range and I was doing a lot of shooting. It was not that close to home and after two years I did not renew my membership.
Eventually, other hobbies started taking up my time and you know how that goes.
Not long ago I gave my reloading equipment to my future son-in-law including almost 2,000 rounds of brass and several 500 count boxes of bullets.


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