# 45ACP loads



## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

Ok there doesn't seem to be much action around here concerning reloading. Surely there has to be a few of us around here who save a few buck by chaseing our brass around the range and actually enjoy reloading. I'm about to start loading for the 45ACP and was wondering if anyone could share some pointers that might save me some grief. Since the shell indexes on the lip of cartridge I have a few questions. I've loaded a lot of rounds for revolvers and never paid much attention to over all legnth of cartridge and always crimped at the cantilure or crimp band. Now I have to deal with a bullet that doesn't have the crimp band nor am I suppose to crimp the shall. I need to know how to index the bullet correctly in the shell. I have the over all minimum legnth spec.s but how do I allow for say a hollow point or flat nose over a round nose bullet. I'd hate to load up a hundered rounds of failure to feeds because they were to long or to short.
Any help on this would be wonderful.


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## Ram Rod (Jan 16, 2008)

I may decide to do the pistol ammo in the near future. For now, I'm just a rifle reloader, and only for my three bolt action calibers. I would imagine the OAL in your auto-pistol would be very important. If it's too long, you'll be over pressure and in danger. I've never really researched how long the throat is in pistols, or what the typical jump to the rifling should be if any. I also handload all of mine without the aid of a press. I do de-prime and clean all of my brass cases, then separate them into caliber, and sell them to my favorite gun shop for 3-5¢ apiece toward my ammo purchases. I know some of the folks here will come along with the info you need, but I have some swell (mostly free) sources for the reloader off the internet. Good luck.
http://www.stevespages.com/page8b.htm
By the way--I've been known to check the OAL of new factory ammo to duplicate. I realize my OAL's are based off the ogive of the specific bullet--in pistols, I wouldn't know how that was done.


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

gmaske said:


> Ok there doesn't seem to be much action around here concerning reloading. Surely there has to be a few of us around here who save a few buck by chaseing our brass around the range and actually enjoy reloading. I'm about to start loading for the 45ACP and was wondering if anyone could share some pointers that might save me some grief. Since the shell indexes on the lip of cartridge I have a few questions. I've loaded a lot of rounds for revolvers and never paid much attention to over all legnth of cartridge and always crimped at the cantilure or crimp band. Now I have to deal with a bullet that doesn't have the crimp band nor am I suppose to crimp the shall. I need to know how to index the bullet correctly in the shell. I have the over all minimum legnth spec.s but how do I allow for say a hollow point or flat nose over a round nose bullet. I'd hate to load up a hundered rounds of failure to feeds because they were to long or to short.
> Any help on this would be wonderful.


So far as Max length shouldn't be over 1.275" according to Winchester. I have 2 S&W's and my col for a semi-wadcutter is 1.220". You have what is called a taper crimp on auotomatic ammo. This is measured on the brass right where it meets the bullet and on a .45acp it should be .470". Most say between .469" and .472" is safe.The difference between ball and wad cutters you will just have to ajust your dies accordingly. Best tool I ever bought was a case gauge for the .45acp. If they drop in free and don't stick out the other end they are shooters. They cost about $12.00. Good luck.:smt033


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## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

I've got enough brass set aside to do a nice batch. I have been shooting up a bunch of factory ball ammo from Magtech and I have a bunch of mixed brass from the range....What a gold mine! I know I'm looseing brass in the snow but I'm coming away with half again or more than I shoot. Anyway what I'm trying to understand is, if I load hollowpoints do I subtract for the missing nose of a ball round or do I just make sure it is between max and minimum OAL? I realise I may need to do a bit of adjusting for feed in my gun but if I hit the sweet spot it should feed like factory rounds in any gun.
Where did you get the case guage?


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

Yeah Baldy, where didja get that case gage? I'm set up and about ready to start loading. I've only to familiarize myself with the powder scale and I think I'll be ready to start loading for the first time.


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## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

benzuncle said:


> Yeah Baldy, where didja get that case gage? I'm set up and about ready to start loading. I've only to familiarize myself with the powder scale and I think I'll be ready to start loading for the first time.


What kind of equipment are you set up with? I actually started out with the lowly Lee loader and then bought an RCBS Partner press later. Using that dang Lee loader I must have set off dozens of primers because you had to use a plastic mallet and a rod to set them. I'll tell you the best investment I ever made was the RCBS 1010 powder scale. Totally top notch with magnetic damping. A trick I came up with when weighing power was I bought a set of Lee powder scoops. I'd pick the one that got closest to the charge I wanted and dribble the last little bit. An RCBS powder dribbler works great for that last little bit. Your slow fire groups will tighten up a good bit with carfully weighed charges by the way.


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

benzuncle said:


> Yeah Baldy, where didja get that case gage? I'm set up and about ready to start loading. I've only to familiarize myself with the powder scale and I think I'll be ready to start loading for the first time.


You can get the gauge down at Space Coast Bullets down in Melbourne or order it from Dillon. Most anybody that sells reloading supplies should have them. Here's what they look like.:mrgreen:


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

I did a pile of research and figured out that just like guns, cars and broads, everyone has their favs. I bought the *Lee Classic Turret Press *from *Kempgunshop.com *in a kit form. (I found them listed on the Lee website) I upgraded the powder measure to the Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure, added the Powder Scale which is magnetic like yours. The Classic Turret Press is cast, not aluminum and just looked a lot sturdier. I took a little time to set it up because the "destructions" are a little lacking. But I figured it out. Funny thing though: the Pro Auto Disk wouldn't work. I fiddled with it for a half-hour before realizing that it wouldn't dispense powder unless there is a casing in the shell holder! So, in the process, I learned of a handy safety feature. Once I'm confident of the powder charges, I'll be ready to begin.


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

Thanks much Baldy, as before, you've been a huge help. When I get my stuff up and running, I'll post some pix.


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## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

benzuncle said:


> I did a pile of research and figured out that just like guns, cars and broads, everyone has their favs. I bought the *Lee Classic Turret Press *from *Kempgunshop.com *in a kit form. (I found them listed on the Lee website) I upgraded the powder measure to the Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure, added the Powder Scale which is magnetic like yours. The Classic Turret Press is cast, not aluminum and just looked a lot sturdier. I took a little time to set it up because the "destructions" are a little lacking. But I figured it out. Funny thing though: the Pro Auto Disk wouldn't work. I fiddled with it for a half-hour before realizing that it wouldn't dispense powder unless there is a casing in the shell holder! So, in the process, I learned of a handy safety feature. Once I'm confident of the powder charges, I'll be ready to begin.


You're starting out with some nice stuff. There are some videos on the Lee site on setup and such. They really helped me feel comfortable about how to set it up. The written instructions are a bit lacking in spots. I bought the Lee Pro1000 in 45ACP and bought the extra shell plate carrier and turret head for my 357 dies.


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## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

benzuncle said:


> Thanks much Baldy, as before, you've been a huge help. When I get my stuff up and running, I'll post some pix.


X2!


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

I looked online at SpaceCoastBullets but decided the gas to drive there and back would probably cost more than the shipping from Dillon, Baldy. So, I ordered the Case Gauge direct from Dillon. 

I have my Lee Classic Turret Press set up and have made 20 rounds. I'm stopping there to see how they turned out. I measured the first 5 to check the powder charge and it was within 1/10th of a grain. After those first 5, I check 10, 15 and #20. All were fine. I made a few mistakes and have already become adept at using the bullet puller! :smt042 It's a good thing I can laugh at myself. :anim_lol: Now that I've got everything pretty well adjusted, I'm hoping for decent results from my 20 rounds so I can go forward.


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## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

The learning curve is steeper with a turret press for sure because you're moving thru all the steps one right after the next. Starting with a single station press is good because you do the same step over and over again until you got it down before you move to the next. Are you gonna shoot that first bullet or frame it :mrgreen: Let me know how they shoot! Glad to hear things are working out too.


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

benzuncle said:


> I looked online at SpaceCoastBullets but decided the gas to drive there and back would probably cost more than the shipping from Dillon, Baldy. So, I ordered the Case Gauge direct from Dillon.
> 
> I have my Lee Classic Turret Press set up and have made 20 rounds. I'm stopping there to see how they turned out. I measured the first 5 to check the powder charge and it was within 1/10th of a grain. After those first 5, I check 10, 15 and #20. All were fine. I made a few mistakes and have already become adept at using the bullet puller! :smt042 It's a good thing I can laugh at myself. :anim_lol: Now that I've got everything pretty well adjusted, I'm hoping for decent results from my 20 rounds so I can go forward.


Glad to hear your up and running. Besure and check your OAL of your new cartridges. Just go slow and easy for a while and you'll do fine. I know a guy who forgot to put the taper crimp die in his press.:buttkick: Yea he run off his frist 50 and headed to the range. Only about 1 in 3 would chamber. He bought ammo at the range and the gun worked perfect.:mrgreen: After he got home and got to checking things out did he find his mistake.:buttkick: Now who do you think that guy was?:smt083 I know nothing I tell you nothing.:smt033


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## gfmun (Jan 16, 2008)

*a couple of things*

It sounds like you are off to a good start and moving slowly, which is a very good thing. Just a couple of thoughts

#1. The people at Dillon are wonderful. It is a great company.

#2. Ask a bunch of questions with the people you shoot with and you will find someone who will really help you. I was really hurting until I met a fellow at the range that I know, and he gave me some pointers and advice that got me going in the right direction.

#3. Buy a chronograph. You can get a new one for under $100 and it is the only way you will know about your reloads other than do they chamber correctly.

thanks, George


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

*Took My First 20 Rounds to the Range Today*

I fired one magazine of American Eagle 230gr. FMJ loads through my Sig to make sure the gun was operating properly. That way I would know whether or not I would be able to blame the gun if my loads didn't work. I had numbered each of the 20 rounds with a Sharpie as I "built" them; I loaded them in the magazines so #1 shot first, etc. in case I needed to record anything specific about a round.

Here's how it played out:

All 20 carefully measured out rounds were way underpowered but felt very consistent 
Thankfully, there was enough powder charge so that all of the rounds made it the entire 21ft to the target rayer:
None of the rounds bounced off the paper targets :anim_lol:
None of the charges had enough poop to eject the spent cartridge
I had to chamber each round
*BUT THEY ALL FIRED *:smt041
The gun dang sure didn't blow up in my face; for that I'm grateful :smt023
A lot of the info that you good people on this site shared with me came into play. Baldy, because I didn't have the Dillon Case Gauge yet, I broke down my Sig P220 and used the barrel as a gauge.

Lessons Learned:

Underloaded rounds are "laughers" but no harm was done (to anything but my ego )
Charges can be boosted, in stages
I have a basis (my load record) to start with now
I'll have to search and find out a percentage for that next increase
I haven't hurried yet, so now ain't the time to start
Thanks again to all of you for your great advice.


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## KeithB (Nov 25, 2007)

i load a lot of 45ACP 230GR FMJ for my XD45 and 200GR LSWC for my PT1911 both with 5.2gr W231 powder , both good target loads.

The XD45 doesn't care for the LSWC it will fail to eject 3 or so out of 50, so i just us the FMJ

Here is my loading setup, a Dillon 550B



















just added the electronic scales, the plastic cover got back ordered


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

Here's another place where you can get some load information that will keep everything safe. http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
Good shooting.


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## Dragonfire (Jun 17, 2007)

Is the case gauge for checking the bullet or the finished cartridge? If you check your OAL does the case gauge still help?


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

I used the minimum recommended load for Hodgdon's HP-38, which is 4.2gr for 230gr FMJ. That recommendation wasn't a lie, that's for sure. But, erring on the safe side...
I'm figuring on bumping it up to 5gr. or just a little less than that for the next 20, then see what I've got. 
I tossed about 100 spent casings in a Zip-Loc at the range and ran them through the tumbler, then shook them around it a old, clean towel to get the dust off; they look fine.

Thanks for the look at your setup, KeithB. Baldy has already shared a look at his. Mine is rather spartan by comparison with the two of you. The experience shows. Here's Sparta:


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

ROTFLMAO!!Looking good gentlemen. You guys are putting together some nice looking setups. Like them safty glasses I see there Mr Benzuncle and that sign is a keeper.:anim_lol:


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## KeithB (Nov 25, 2007)

nice setup benzuncle


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## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

Ok, Here's a question for you .45ACP loaders. How out of round can a shell be before it causes a problem with the sizeing die? I've got a fair amount of "Range Brass" that have slight to moderate out of round mouths. Anybody got any tips on this?


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

As long as it's not crimped in or has a big gouge in it it should be OK. Here's what I do after I inspect each one for splits,kinks,or cob in them. I put 50 or 100 in a old plastic shoe box and give them a light spray of Hornady One Shot. Roll them back and forth a couple of times and your ready to go. Makes everything work easier. I know you probably got carbine dies and they say you don't need the lube. Just give it a try and then tell me I am crazy. :anim_lol:


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

*5.1 grains did the trick!*

After "building" 20 rounds and skippin' 'em off the floor to hit the target, I increased the grains to 5.1. These next 20 rounds were great! The game is on now, boyz! :supz: I also picked up a decent amount of brass.

Baldy, this gun range has some Dillon stuff on the shelf and behold, there was the 45ACP case gage! But I already have the one I ordered from Dillon. They got on my little order like white on rice.


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## HK9 (Dec 12, 2007)

*Dillon Square Deal*

Nice to see this thread expanding! I have a Dillon Square set up for 9mm & 45 ACP. they both do a great job!


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

*Lee Safety Prime Tip*

I ordered the LEE *Safety Prime *unit for my Classic Turret Press when I purchased it, even though the reviews on the Midway site were mixed. I was also beginning to have my doubts until I recalled reading something on the LEE site, a review by a guy that set up the Classic Turret Press for *45ACP*. Near the end of the article he mentions holding the side of the priming lever to keep it from moving while the safety prime is pushed forward, loading the priming lever cup. That did it! After realizing what I had read one month ago, I tried it. The next 150 primers fed into the primer cup perfectly. It sure is great when a plan comes together. My setup is adjusted and everything is working very smoothly. I'm happier'n a dung beetle with a new turdball.


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## txpete (Nov 29, 2006)

I cast my own 200 gr swc for my 45 acp loads.I use 4.5 grs bullseye for my target loads with the 200 gr bullet and use win large pistol primers.very mild but accurate load.
one thing I will say should be a must for loading 45 acp is the lee factory crimp die.it takes the bell out of the brass and I like it better than the standard roll crimp that my dies came with.
pete


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## benzuncle (Aug 29, 2007)

+1 on the Lee Factory Crimp Die. Everything I read, whether from forum members or people reviewing it agrees. It occupies the 4th hole in my 4-hole turret.


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## Guest (Feb 24, 2008)

txpete said:


> I cast my own 200 gr swc for my 45 acp loads.I use 4.5 grs bullseye for my target loads with the 200 gr bullet and use win large pistol primers.very mild but accurate load.
> one thing I will say should be a must for loading 45 acp is the lee factory crimp die.it takes the bell out of the brass and I like it better than the standard roll crimp that my dies came with.
> pete


Pete, what is the barrel length of you 45? When I load 4.6 gr Bullseye I get a little bit of keyholing with a 200 gr LSWC.

AND....

Tell me more about this Lee Factory Crimp Die; I just heard about that die today while hanging out at the gun shop. I load with a Hornady Lock N Load Progressive Loader (which incidentally I love) which has 5 die stations but two of them are the charging unit and a Lock Out Die that I would not particularly want to eliminate. I use RCBS Carbide dies (3 die set) which does a taper crimp while seating the bullet. I've fired over 1,000 rounds loaded on it and haven't had any problem till very recently a problem at the same time as a change in bullet. With the LNL Press came a promotion for a free 1,000 230 gr HP/XTP Bullets which I loaded 200 of to break in a new 45. I checked several cartridges for fit in the chamber and all seated nicely, then I fired them. The first 50 went fine then one failed to allow the action to close completely and the gun locked up (cartridge too long). I'm going nuts trying to figure out why that happened since everything about all the loads was exactly the same; I loaded them all in one sitting. The crimps seem fine all I can think of is that for some reason, firing the first 5 shots somehow affected the rounds in the magazine. So the Lee die was recommended but this problem is definitely isolated to the Hornady bullet.

Any ideas? And do you really think this Lee dies is necessary since I have no problems outside the Hornady bullets?

BTW, I shoot a couple of 5" Kimbers


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## txpete (Nov 29, 2006)

4.6 grs and key holes??.the first thing I would guess is the bullet is undersized for your bore or massive leading.make sure and measure the bullet (200 swc) it should be atleast .452 next slug your bore it should run .451.a cast bullet should be .001-.002 over true bore dia for a good fit and accuracy.
since you were shooting jacketed bullets also how were they shooting??.
I am a single stage rcbs guy so I am not sure if the lee FC die will work for you on the hornady set up you have.I am sure one of the other guys can help there.
pete


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## Guest (Feb 24, 2008)

txpete said:


> 4.6 grs and key holes??.the first thing I would guess is the bullet is undersized for your bore or massive leading.make sure and measure the bullet (200 swc) it should be atleast .452 next slug your bore it should run .451.a cast bullet should be .001-.002 over true bore dia for a good fit and accuracy.
> since you were shooting jacketed bullets also how were they shooting??.
> I am a single stage rcbs guy so I am not sure if the lee FC die will work for you on the hornady set up you have.I am sure one of the other guys can help there.
> pete


I have an RCBS single stage too and I know the Lee die would work in the Hornady Progressive but I would have to take another die out to have a place to put it or run all the ammo through the single stage after loading so I'm asking if it's worth it since the only problem I am having is the Hornady bullets which I would never buy they just came free.

The bullets are the proper diameter and the 4.6 grain load isn't making big keyholes they just dont cut clean at all (on the way to keyhole/slight keyhole). At 5 grains, they cut like a paper punch cut them.

You didn't answer the question about your barrel length, it appears to be 5", right?


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## Guest (Feb 24, 2008)

Actually I think I got my answer, I just looked the die up on the Midway site and it says it gives you a taper crimp which is what my RCBS die give me so I dont understand what the hoop-la is all about with this die except what they call it.

Does this factory crimp die seat the bullet as well or just crimp the case?


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## txpete (Nov 29, 2006)

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1203859182.5902=/html/catalog/dies-crimp.html


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## Guest (Feb 24, 2008)

Thanks Pete; and we'll keep that barrel length your little secret.:smt023


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## txpete (Nov 29, 2006)

:smt039


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## KeithB (Nov 25, 2007)

wboggs said:


> Actually I think I got my answer, I just looked the die up on the Midway site and it says it gives you a taper crimp which is what my RCBS die give me so I dont understand what the hoop-la is all about with this die except what they call it.
> 
> Does this factory crimp die seat the bullet as well or just crimp the case?


The FCD only crimps, with 45ACP best to seat and crimp in two seperate operations


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## Guest (Feb 24, 2008)

KeithB said:


> The FCD only crimps, with 45ACP best to seat and crimp in two seperate operations


Yea Pete posted that information sheet which explained things very clearly. I think at only 15.00, I will pick one up and keep it in my single stage press for crimping jacked loads for sure. I have 2 seating/crimping dies so I will set one up to just seat since with the 1/4 turn bushings in the progressive I can change a die in a couple of seconds. I'll no doubt try it with my lead loads but I dont anticipate very much of an advantage there. Or maybe I'll add the extra step for competition loads with lead bullets.


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