# Question concerning brass



## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

I am in 'loading mode', before my garage becomes a 5,000 degree oven. I have been loading 41 Magnum with mixed brass. All was going well until I began loading with virgin Starline brass.

I am using a new carbide RCBS die set. The sizing and decapping die is set as low as it can go. After I size the case it will not fit into the cylinder. It is just the last little bit which will not slide in; even with some force. All other brass that I use works perfectly. This same problem happens with Starline 45 Colt brass.

I have posted this question on one other site and await a reply from Starline.

Any ideas?


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

If everything is the same you may need a full length sizing die to shape the new brass. If you get one besure and check the OAL of the case as it may need to be trimmed after resizing.


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## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

Thanks Baldy,

Thought that all handgun sizing dies were full length dies?? I will check the case length of the new brass and let you know (that's a good thought; I should have done that already).


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## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

Case length is 1.28"; the same as the RP & W/W cases that I have been using. 

Is it at all possible that the Starline brass is softer and swells slightly at the bottom when they are resized?


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## dosborn (Apr 17, 2009)

Drill Sergeant said:


> Is it at all possible that the Starline brass is softer and swells slightly at the bottom when they are resized?


If the die is all the way down (just touching the shell plate/holder) that shouldn't be happening. I am with Baldy about the length of the brass. Do you have a head space gauge to check it against?

Will a re-sized (unloaded) case fit the cylinder?


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## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

Length of brass is the same as the other brands. No head space gauge. However all dimensions seem to the same as other brands. 

Someone mentioned that the brass may be thicker and needs a heavier crimp. I will measure and try this and keep you informed.

Thanks again for the insights!


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## Sully2 (Mar 9, 2010)

Take a used casing and fulllength re-size it. Then take a new Starline case and do the same. Then MEASURE with a vernier various diameters up and down both cases. If the Starline is larger BY ANY AMOUNT...your getting "springback" cased by newer HARDER brass


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## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

Thanks Sully2. Will try this and report back!


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## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

I have tried it all. The problem seems to begin at the case bell, powder drop stage. I am using a Dillon 550B. It is extremely difficult to remove the bullet from this stage. So difficult, in fact, that my bench cracked. With a heavier crimp I can now get the finished cases into the cylinder - if I exert pressure at the very end. 

These cases are too much for me. Even the primers load hard. I can load up to four times the number of other brand cases for the same investment of time - and I am not sore when I am done. Time to lose the Starline and stick with any other brand.

Thanks for the input. I appreciate all of the responses.


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## Sully2 (Mar 9, 2010)

Drill Sergeant said:


> I have tried it all. The problem seems to begin at the case bell, powder drop stage. I am using a Dillon 550B. It is extremely difficult to remove the bullet from this stage. So difficult, in fact, that my bench cracked. With a heavier crimp I can now get the finished cases into the cylinder - if I exert pressure at the very end.
> 
> These cases are too much for me. Even the primers load hard. I can load up to four times the number of other brand cases for the same investment of time - and I am not sore when I am done. Time to lose the Starline and stick with any other brand.
> 
> Thanks for the input. I appreciate all of the responses.


Without having one to inspect it almost sounds like the Starline casings are too long..?? I dont heavy crimp anything anymore because I use "factory taper crimp dies" in my 550...because with "self feeders" ya cant roll crimp or they dont work right.

Some brands of primers WILL be tough to seat because they must be made to MAX dimensions where the primer pocket is at MIN dimensions.

It also sounds like you need more "bell" on the case mouth...because if its properly belled you should be able to just DRIP a slug into the case and have it go in about 1/8 inch ( or so) and be able to pick it out with your fingers. The next stage will shoe it down to the proper depth ( again if adjusted properly) and crimp ( of either style)


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## Drill Sergeant (Oct 26, 2008)

Thanks for the input Sully2. I bell the case mouth just enough so that the bullet will start and the coating on the lead will not be removed at seating. I readjusted for the Starline specifically and tried running them alone. This brass is tough. Real tough. I have been handloading for about thirty years and have never experienced this type of problem. At least I am able to determine that it is with only one brand of virgin brass in one caliber that these problems exist (so far). 

I have an unopened box of Starline in 45 Colt. When I get to it, I'll report on that caliber. By the way, I just reloaded several hundred in 45 Colt and many were once fired Starline without a single glitch.


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## Sully2 (Mar 9, 2010)

Drill Sergeant said:


> Thanks for the input Sully2. I bell the case mouth just enough so that the bullet will start and the coating on the lead will not be removed at seating. I readjusted for the Starline specifically and tried running them alone. This brass is tough. Real tough. I have been handloading for about thirty years and have never experienced this type of problem. At least I am able to determine that it is with only one brand of virgin brass in one caliber that these problems exist (so far).
> 
> I have an unopened box of Starline in 45 Colt. When I get to it, I'll report on that caliber. By the way, I just reloaded several hundred in 45 Colt and many were once fired Starline without a single glitch.


The brass is work hardened by the forming process. I suspect the 45 Colt stuff will be the same.

Personally..Id bell the mouth just a tiny tad more. Wont even be able to measure it ...and its more by feel that anything.

If the brass IS work hardened all you can do is fire form them ( if ya remember the old days)...sit them in a shallow pan of water so the head wont get hot....heat the mouths with a LP torch till they are almost cherry colored and then tip them over to cool. Makes brass ( or copper) "dead soft".


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