# Tested my first handloads at the range!



## mccoy (Dec 31, 2007)

Dear friends,

Today I had a chance to test my first handloads.

.38 special, 158 grs hard-cast SWCs, 5 or 5.3 grns VVN340, as per TOF's suggestions.

They were pretty much okey-dokey. I just loved hearing those little creatures of mine speeding down the target and punching paper :mrgreen: .

Noticed they were more accurate than factory ammo, as all the reloading buffs say. I'll quote'em on that with emphasis.
Achieved some good sixgroups.

I had the reloads checked by a range instructor, he said they were all right, may be too tightly crimped and that could cause higher than usual pressures. Actually, recoil felt slightly stronger, especially with 5.3 grs.
He too shot some and was satisfied.

Well, being able to manage conspicuos savings *and* shoot better sure sounds terrific !

My next step: bullet casting. I'm mutating into a savings maniac. But that making up more than 50% the reload cost, sounds like a logical direction to take.

I'll open up a thread asking for details on that (something was already hinted at in a previous post bu I'd like more details).


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

A note on crimping (forgive me if you already know this): case length is critical to getting a good, consistent crimp. If some cases are longer than others, the long cases will receive more crimping action, and the short ones less crimp, which can make your reloads less consistent (and less accurate). If you happened to set the crimping die with a short case, then ALL the remaining rounds will be over-crimped; if you set the die with a long case, the rest will be under-crimped.

It's best to look at the crimp (among other things) on each round as you remove it from the press, or pull every fifth round or so and check it if you're using a progressive loader. If you see a secondary "line" on the top edge of the brass after crimping, this is a sign the die is over-running the case mouth and crimping excessively.

Hope this was helpful.


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## mccoy (Dec 31, 2007)

Thanks DJniner for the tips, TOF already told me about such issue and you added some more useful details.
As a matter of fact the instructor told me he saw that secondary line, sign of excessive crimping.

What I'd envisage to minimize the problem you cited without measuring each single bullet would be to take a sample of 30 resized bullets in the same batch and adjust crimp lenght on the ones representative of the *median* lenght value. this would allow, if the statistical distribution has the shape I think, to keep the numbers of imperfect crimpings pretty low.


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## gmaske (Jan 7, 2008)

That sudden improvement in group size is a real incentive builder for sure. I finally had a day were the temperature was warm enough to work out side and you could actually find a spot to work were there wasn't a foot of snow. I built a new bench for my reloading equipment and got my press set up. I'll be spittin bullets out in no time now. I'll have to post a picture of my setup when i get it origanized.


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

mccoy said:


> ...
> 
> What I'd envisage to minimize the problem you cited without measuring each single bullet would be to take a sample of 30 resized bullets in the same batch and adjust crimp lenght on the ones representative of the *median* lenght value. this would allow, if the statistical distribution has the shape I think, to keep the numbers of imperfect crimpings pretty low.


:smt023


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

I'm happy to hear you are succesfull first time out mccoy. 

Regarding the crimp: You can adjust your die 1/4 turn at a time till it damages a case below the bullet to find the maximum crimp point. A full circle ring at the base of the bullet is not what i am talking about. the full circle bulge may develop with no crimp and is indicative of a bullet forcing the case out from the sizing die diameter. When the crimp die is set to tight the case will buckle between the bullet base and case head. 

Once you establish to much crimp you can back off 1/4 turn to what could be considered "Maximum" crimp setting. If all cases are within .004 or .005 of each other you are good to go. If you have a bit more variance in case length but are not building hot loads you can back off an additional 1/4 turn to a medium crimp.

Pistol rounds such as 9MM and .40 S&W rely on the press fit of bullet into the slightly undersized case to hold the bullet in position rather than an aggressive crimp as used by revolver and especialy magnum loads. In my opinion you can use a light crimp with the powder charge you are loading.

The test is to load 6 rounds in the revolver, fire 5 and evaluate the 6'th to see if the bullet has moved.

Have fun and stay safe.

:smt1099


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## mccoy (Dec 31, 2007)

TOF,
I have proceeded by instinct sort of like you have suggested but it is good to have it explained rigorously.
Now the crimp would seem to be allright, I'll post a picture if I can.

I'm aware the SWC is easier since you have the cannelure ring as a benchmark, good for the beginners!

I'm reloading my 3rd batch now for the weekend and it already feels easy and pleasant. I'm still using the Lee cast-iron single press since the pro 1000 has evidently yet to leave the Lee plant in America. On a second thought, and noticing your repentance, I may cancel the order and take a loadmaster instead. Tomorrow I'll go to the gunstore and enquire about that.


One advantage of having 2 presses I'll be able to reload .38 specials and .357 mags without having to reset dies. I'm getting so much of a reloading buff that I may eventually add a 3rd press, which one I do not know yet! .


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## TOF (Sep 7, 2006)

I believe you are making the correct decision by changing your press order. I have been trying to talk my cheapskate mind into purchasing a Loadmaster for myself.

With the loadmaster you will be able to use lee's "Factory Crimp" die. Die sets with the 4th die only cost $8 to $10 more and allow you to use the standard seating/crimp die for seating only which I prefer. With the Pro 1000 or Loadmaster, you can purchase extra die plates for very little $ and set up seperate die sets for each caliber. It then takes only a few seconds to switch.

Enjoy.

:smt1099


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## zhurdan (Mar 21, 2008)

Might also want to invest in a case trimmer. It's something you can do on the couch watching TV after you size them. Also, make sure to inspect your brass for signs of wear. It's easy to get up to 4 or 5 reloads on a particular set of brass in a hurry and they can start to fail or crack.

One thing I've done is color code my brass with a magic marker. Virgin brass has no marks. Once reloaded gets a red mark, twice gets a black, third time gets inspected and loaded if ok and marked blue, tossed if not. After 3 or 4 times I usually end up tossing them. That's pretty picky of me, but one failed case can be messy!

Zhur


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## mccoy (Dec 31, 2007)

zhurdan said:


> One thing I've done is color code my brass with a magic marker. Virgin brass has no marks. Once reloaded gets a red mark, twice gets a black, third time gets inspected and loaded if ok and marked blue, tossed if not. After 3 or 4 times I usually end up tossing them. That's pretty picky of me, but one failed case can be messy!
> 
> Zhur


Color code is great, I'll do that or something similar to remember how many times the brass has been fired.

Tossing the stuff after 3-4 times would seem radical to me. unless you are speaking semiautos with specific requirements.

As far as I know, if no flaws or incipient failure signs are visible, you can fire your brass up to 20-30 times (I'm speaking revolver).

Good topic starter though, If you don't mind i'll open a new thread on that.


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## zhurdan (Mar 21, 2008)

@mccoy
Yeah autos are a bit more picky. I reload my revolver brass until I can almost see thru it... (just kidding, not THAT long) With Autos, if you shoot, size, trim, eventually you are taking brass away at a rate that can make them start to fail. Sure you only take off a tiny amount each time, but it eventually causes problems. Now, 9mm brass you can reload for a long time, but with .45's in my experience, they tend to start having problems after 4-5 reloads. I've shot some more than that of course, and the only reason I only reload that many times is because I have a few 5 gallon buckets full of once fired brass, I've got a little to spare when it comes to tossing them out. hehe

Good luck, reloading is fun, just remember if the lights go out... stumble your way outta the room, don't use your lighter!! hehehe

Zhur


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## mccoy (Dec 31, 2007)

> and the only reason I only reload that many times is because I have a few 5 gallon buckets full of once fired brass, I've got a little to spare when it comes to tossing them out.


I envy you shooters of the popular calibers, at the range the only revolver brass I can collect is the one I fire...


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