# XD40 Longevity?



## XD40Colorado (Jun 19, 2011)

Hey guys, 

Currently my XD40 SC is pulling triple duty: home defense, concealed carry, and target practice. I'm throwing about 75-100 rounds/week through it. Will this wear out any of the components? How long should I expect the pistol to last before replacing, with 400 rounds/month?

Thanks guys!!


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## C1 (Sep 25, 2010)

Firearm wear depends a lot on the type of ammo that is used. Is it range ammo (not usually full power) or full power personal protection ammo, and is the case brass with a copper jacketed bullet? I stay away from Wolf or any ammo that uses a steel case. Be sure your cleaning brush is brass (no steel or stainless steel) and your cleaning rod is brass (stay away from steel).

For cost savings, I would suggest getting a quality semi-auto in .22LR. The ammo savings will more than pay for the .22LR. I also suggest starting with a .22LR while working on the fundamentals. For years, you will still be using the .22LR to practice the fundamentals and do it at a lower ammo cost.


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## propellerhead (May 19, 2006)

I was putting 200-300 a week through my XD-9. It went over 10,000 in the first year then got stolen at the 12,500 round mark. it never had a problem.


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## XD40Colorado (Jun 19, 2011)

Stolen! Ouch, that sucks!

And C1: I use USAAmmo 180GR FMJ (reman) for practice, and clean after every firing with a Hoppes Bore Snake and Hoppes No. 9, then re-lube with a very light coat of CLR Safariland Break-free (is that good for lubrication)


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

XD40Colorado said:


> Hey guys,
> Currently my XD40 SC is pulling triple duty: home defense, concealed carry, and target practice. I'm throwing about 75-100 rounds/week through it. Will this wear out any of the components? How long should I expect the pistol to last before replacing, with 400 rounds/month?
> Thanks guys!!


The XD-40SC is a well made high quality firearm. Polymer frames are extremely durable as proved by Glock over the years. The recoil spring is very important as it acts like a shock absorber on a car. I'd be sure to change it out at least every 2,000 rounds or so. As posted, a steady diet of hot ammo may result in premature wear, but in range ammo, I don't see your XD failing you in your lifetime.


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## C1 (Sep 25, 2010)

XD40Colorado said:


> And C1: I use USAAmmo 180GR FMJ (reman) for practice, and clean after every firing with a Hoppes Bore Snake and Hoppes No. 9, then re-lube with a very light coat of CLR Safariland Break-free (is that good for lubrication)


I have never used CLR nor have I done research on it, so I cannot comment on CLR. It could be a very good product.

What I do use for lubrication is a high temp, synthetic grease on the outside of the barrel, inside of barrel bushing (if present), slide grooves and frame rails. Those interested can get this type of grease from an agricultural supply store or industrial/heavy equipment dealer. I believe Springfield use to have a video on Youtube that recommended using a gun grease for the XD platform. Do NOT mix different lubrication products, as they may not be compatible. If there is a chemical reaction, your firearm could be ruined.

I stay away from any oils or solvents that have PTFE/Teflon. For the places I use oil, I use a synthetic SAE 30 or synthetic 10W-30 motor oil depending on how thick of an oil I want to use.

Here are a few things to keep in mind when cleaning your firearm. Make sure the firearm is unloaded (check and check again), there is NO ammo in the area, no mags in the area (unless you need to disassemble a mag for cleaning), you are in a well ventilated area, you are not near a possible ignition source or an air intake vent, you do not have any food or beverage in the area (do not do in a kitchen, etc.), keep your hands away from your face (nose, mouth, eyes), you are wearing eye protection (possible splatter of solvents or oils), you are wearing appropriate rubber gloves (most solvents are not good for us and you do not want any lead or solvent to be absorbed by your skin) and that you change clothes and clean up after you are finished. I also do not use any compressed air as I do not want to make any solvents, powder residue or lead airborne. When finished I put the used cleaning patches in an area that a major fire would not be started if the cleaning patches were to start on fire (used patches will have solvents and oils).

IMO, the Boresnake is best for getting the cleaner/solvent out after the barrel is clean. I prefer to use a copper cleaning brush in the appropriate caliber vs. a Boresnake. Since you have a semi-auto you can remove the barrel for cleaning. Be sure the cleaning rod is brass and enters from the chamber area of the barrel first and then travels in the direction towards the barrel muzzle - just like the direction of a bullet. Then pull the cleaning rod with attached brush towards you. Keep the cleaning rod centered in the barrel as even a brass cleaning brush has a steel center. You do not want to damage the barrel crown (the last part of the barrel that touches a bullet before it leaves the barrel), any part of the rifling or chamber.

There are different types of solvents. Some are made to work best on lead (good if shooting lead bullets), and some are made to work best on copper (good if shooting copper jacketed bullets). I do use different variations of Hoppes, but there are also other good brands too.

Here is something that is very important. Do not contaminate your entire bottle of solvent or lubricating oil. Either label a small bottle that has an attached applicator or purchase a glass eye dropper that stays only in your cleaning kit. I have one eye dropper for my solvent and another dropper for my oil.

I hope the above helps.


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