# Gun Safes (floor models)



## TAPnRACK (Jan 30, 2013)

As my collection of handguns & long guns grows... I find myself in need/want of a floor safe. At present I store my firearms in a "gun room" which is a workshop with ventilation system in my finished basement. The door has 2 locks... but I'd still like a floor safe for additional security, fire protection and storage.

I'm trying to stay under a $1,000 budget ($700 would be perfect) and am interested in multiple, movable shelves (for customization) and space for up to 10 long guns on one side and shorter shelves on the other. A good fire rating is also required. I know some have interior lights and moisture control as well... not sure if it's really needed. Not sure if I want to store handguns on inside of door (door holsters) or on shelves in cases.

I have seen safes ranging from $400 to well over $10,000 from dozens of makers. I have a safe shop near me... but figured I'd get some opinions before I deal with a sales person who may steer me toward a particular brand for commission or other reason. 

Any advice on features to look for or brands to stay away from? Is spending a small fortune really worth it?


----------



## lefty60 (Oct 13, 2012)

There are many safes to choose from! I would say check for those that meet your budget needs, then check those for the most important (to you) options. Such as fireproofing, lights, ect.

I have noticed lately that everybody has gun safes for sale! Many hardware stores, Costco, Home Depot, Lowes, ect. Do the research! Then chose the best that your budget will allow!

Good hunting:mrgreen:


----------



## Scott9mm (Jul 2, 2012)

Check out Tractor Supply Co. if you have one near. I like the electronic push-button locks for speed and the ability to select your own combination. Otherwise the main factors will be size, interior configuration/configurability, and fire rating. Weight may be a factor for floor loading and getting the safe home and into the house. Much depends on your needs.


----------



## TAPnRACK (Jan 30, 2013)

Never been to/heard of Tractor Supply Co.... but apparently I have 2 within 25-30min from me. I'll have to check them out as well.


----------



## desertman (Aug 29, 2013)

I'd go with the safe shop near you, they will be better able to explain to you the different types of safes along with their locking mechanisms, manuel or electronic, fire rating, weight and the steel thickness "gauge". They will more than likely be able to deliver and set up the safe in your home and recommend the best place to install it, and depending on weight, either bolted to a concrete or wooden floor. When I bought mine I went to the different home improvement stores in my area, and found that they could deliver it but it would be my responsibility to move it from the driveway and into my house. When I went to the safe store all I did was pay for it and they took care of all the rest, and had the special equipment that was needed to move it and get it into the house. Mine weighs over 600 lbs. a hand truck would be woefully inadequate. Some safes require a fork lift and can only be bolted to a concrete floor.


----------



## TAPnRACK (Jan 30, 2013)

Good advice.


----------



## AdamSmith (Dec 18, 2013)

I recommend Liberty Safes. But they are out West, and I don't know if you can get them back East.


----------



## TAPnRACK (Jan 30, 2013)

We have all the big names like Liberty, Canon, Browning, Fat Boy, Winchester...etc, etc on the East as well (i'm in MI). So many manufacturers and such a big difference in price is why I'm having difficulties choosing what brand and how much to spend. I'm comfortable in the $700-900 range, but if spending another $500-700 would mean getting a superior product then I am willing to spend the extra money. No way I'm spending several thousand dollars though... that's just my personal stance.

I won't be able to get out to some safe stores until after the holidays... so I'm doing some research in the meantime. 

Appreciate everyone's input and look forward to reading more opinions on the topic.


----------



## OGCJason (Nov 4, 2013)

I actually did (I think anyway) a pretty decent primer post over on my blog (which I will avoid linking to here though per forum guidelines) about different safes, options, features, and prices,as well as what to expect from a safe.

No safe it completely secure...it's just a deterrent. Given time and the tools, any safe can be opened. That being the case, it's really a matter or personal preferences as far as size, capacity, and cost. Larger safes store more and generally cost more. Smaller and fewer cost less. Basic principle, right?

That said, I personally think the best ones are those that can not only lock things away, but that can be concealed. If no one even knows where to look, and has fewer points of entry, that's even more security IMHO.

Hence why mine are wall mounted safes, between studs. I also inserted false studs on the underside, toe nailed those to the joist, then the safe to the stud, and finally dry walling over and painting. A nice piece of art work from my photo library or easily moved appliance can get me in a safe no matter where I am in my house in under five seconds.


----------



## AdamSmith (Dec 18, 2013)

If a professional thief wants to get into your safe, he/she will find it, no matter where you hide it.

And an amateur thief at best will only be able to haul it off. So if it weighs enough, or you bolt it to the floor, any gun safe should be safe.

There is nothing in my home worth stealing that is not in my safe. The AT&T DVR and cable connection are the only things outside the safe that is not protected.

Most families hide jewelry somewhere in their homes, and that is what amateur thieves look for, plus personal computers. I keep all that in my safe.

Anything that a professional thief might want, such as precious jewels or bearer bonds, you should keep in a safe deposit box anyway.


----------



## desertman (Aug 29, 2013)

In addition to your safe you might want to consider a monitored security system as OGCJason stated "No safe is completely secure...it's just a deterrent. Given time and the tools, any safe can be opened." More than likely, if it's a good safe it's going to take some effort and time to break into and the police will probably arrive well before the thieves get inside, not only that I doubt that they would stick around that long after the alarm is activated. Our security system is cellular operated, so if a thief cuts the phone line to dis-able the system it will still work, as it is not connected to a land line. In my opinion securing our guns and ammunition properly is an absolute priority. At least if some unauthorized individual were to get hold of them, it will take a considerable amount of effort and risk. If God forbid they are used in a crime no one can accuse you of being irresponsible and they will have a more difficult time of suing you.


----------



## SouthernBoy (Jun 27, 2007)

I bought a Liberty Colonial 23 several years ago and have been very pleased with it. Of course, you are only going to know how pleased when someone is unsuccessful in getting into it. And as has been pointed out, no safe is 100% in this. I considered a number of criteria and watched a number of videos and visited a number of places (including gun shows) before taking the decision I did.

Once you have nailed down a few from which to chose, the one thing I would recommend is to buy a little larger than you think you need. Because you will need the extra storage offered in a larger safe. Buy quality and buy from a manufacturer who has been around a long time and has a reputation.

Other than that, explosives strategically located in your home wired to detonate at a break-in are the only absolutes to take out the BG's.*


* You folks do recognize a little humor here with this.... right?


----------



## AdamSmith (Dec 18, 2013)

You would never want to blow up your own place for bad guys. Only if you were being chased by good guys.


----------



## desertman (Aug 29, 2013)

SouthernBoy:

"Other than that, explosives strategically located in your home wired to detonate at a break-in are the only absolutes to take out the BG's.*"

Or you could rig a double barrel shotgun up to the door of the room where your guns are stored, it might be a little messy and you'll have to replace the door, but at least you won't blow up your house! Just a suggestion.

On the serious side, I do believe they make a type of pepper spray or gas that fumigates your house or room but you can't re-enter after an hour or so. This will temporarily incapacitate an intruder.


----------



## paratrooper (Feb 1, 2012)

A good quality safe is all about weight. The more it weighs, the better safe it will be. Fire rating is also important. I'm not a safe expert or a locksmith, so I can't school anyone on the particulars. 

I've heard a lot of good stuff about Liberty Safes. I can't give you any specifics as to why, but I just keep hearing good stuff in general. You might do a search of surplus safes. There are companies that sell used stuff that come out of banks and businesses. 

A few years ago, a friend of mine bought a used vault that was the size of a small bathroom. It weighed almost 10K lbs. He pretty much got it for a song and a dance, cause the guy that sold it to him, was tired of having to store it. It came from a company that sells used safes / vaults. Of course, it cost him more that what he paid for it, to get it shipped to him. 

Anyways, good luck to you and I hope that you find what you're looking for.


----------



## 427TriPowered (Sep 30, 2012)

johnson safes outta zionsville indiana is the hoosier go to safe maker...


----------



## OGCJason (Nov 4, 2013)

paratrooper said:


> A good quality safe is all about weight. The more it weighs, the better safe it will be. Fire rating is also important...


It's actually not weight it's steel thickness on any exposed side. Granted the one leads to the other (thicker walks lead to heavier safes) but this is just one characteristic to look at.

The one that gets me is that most people will look at the front door but not the sides but this is not a good idea. The front door of a safe is not the only point of entry. Anyone with an acetylene torch could cut through a thin sidewall in minutes.

I've always been a proponent of wall safes just for this reason. Bolting them to both the floor and back walk are good ideas too.


----------

