# 92FS Frame Wear



## Sbeven (3 mo ago)

Anyone know what could be causing this kind of wear? All parts are stock and have about 700 rounds on this pistol, any help would be appreciated!


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## Higgy Baby (Aug 10, 2021)

Well... that looks like wear to me. ??
Seems excessive for 700 rounds. 
My brain goes 3 places- lubrication, +++P ammo, bad metal. 
Then I wonder- could it be from out of spec powder?

Basically- I have no real idea.


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

There will be some normal wear on the frame, as the frame is just aluminum. But yea - that does seem excessive. Hard to believe that is only 700 rounds thru the gun.

Are there any raised areas on the outside of the locking block? Any burrs?

Are you the original owner of that gun?


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## Belt Fed (4 mo ago)

Looks pretty dry too. A good lube will help with some of that.


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## Sbeven (3 mo ago)

Higgy Baby said:


> Well... that looks like wear to me. ??
> Seems excessive for 700 rounds.
> My brain goes 3 places- lubrication, +++P ammo, bad metal.
> Then I wonder- could it be from out of spec powder?
> ...


Ammo has been a mix, but primarily Federal 115gr. Lubrication has generally been a spray of Rem oil on the slide and frame before firing


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## Sbeven (3 mo ago)

Shipwreck said:


> There will be some normal wear on the frame, as the frame is just aluminum. But yea - that does seem excessive. Hard to believe that is only 700 rounds thru the gun.
> 
> Are there any raised areas on the outside of the locking block? Any burrs?
> 
> Are you the original owner of that gun?


I'm the original owner, not sure if it would have something to do with it but I got it late 2021; and I'm pretty sure its a recent manufacture.
I do recall the tolerances being pretty tight when I first got it, primarily it got pretty tight when putting the slide back on the frame during reassembly


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## Sbeven (3 mo ago)

I'm thinking of trying a heavier recoil spring, or worst case a rubber buffer on the guide rod; but I'm not sure if that would be a proper solution.


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## Belt Fed (4 mo ago)

Try a little heavier oil, i use rem oil to coat the outside metal. it's kinda lightweight to use on moving parts. but then again i have a tendency to overoil things. There are lots of good oils and discussion on oils has caused many a fight. lol no matter what forums you're on. from cars to chainsaws to guns. I also use Mobil1 on all my guns. I started using it many years ago on AR10's where you can't overoil one and never a problem with it on any gun. now with all oil threads someone will say i'm nuts for using it.


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## Belt Fed (4 mo ago)

Speaking of oils, i got a bottle of oil one time with a gun purchase called green oil, guess it was supposed to be good for the enviroment. i just found that stuff the other day in a box and got it out and sprayed a little on the surface of an AR and good lord that crap stunk. no way i'd use that on a gun and put in a safe. i throwed it in the trash.


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Sbeven said:


> I'm thinking of trying a heavier recoil spring, or worst case a rubber buffer on the guide rod; but I'm not sure if that would be a proper solution.


No, don't do that. You should not need to put in a stronger recoil spring. I don't think it would make a difference for the wear. And, you could affect reliability, and could actually increase wear possibly.

The recoil spring is officially rated to be changed every 5000 rounds. Honestly, I would do it every 3-5k rounds. The longer you go without a recoil spring change, you increase the likelihood of a locking block breakage. So, never go past 5k rounds. But, I do it between 3750 and 4k rounds.You have less than 1000 rounds thru that. If you REALLY want to change it - you can get one from gunsprings.com for just a few dollars. But, it should not need to be changed. And, I would not mess with the spring weight. Go with what it calls for.

I've owned 29 Beretta 92 variants over the past 30 years. So, I am very familiar with the gun and with taking it apart and changing parts.

You WILL get some wear on the finish. That looks like more than 700 rounds, though. That is why I asked if you were the original owner.

Honestly. I would just keep an eye on it right now. If you registered your gun, your warranty went from 1 year to 3 years. So, there would be time.

Remoil is not the best. You may want to use something else. Also, Berettas like to be run wet. So, you likely should use a bit more oil on it than say, polymer guns. Also, make sure you are lubing the rails on the inside of the slide where the locking block moves. And, pit some oil with a brush where you see wear on the frame. Not a lot, but a little.

I use Breakfree CLP, which is rather thin. However, on my carry guns, I reoil the rails every 2 weeks with a toothbrush. And, on home defense guns, I do it every 3 weeks.

Remoil is rather thin. If you oil the gun lightly, or oil it and then let it sit a while - and then go shoot... It's possible the oil evaporated. Breakfree CLP tends to evaporate or dry up after a while, which is why I reapply it every 2-3 weeks. I do think it's a lack of lubrication causing then possibly... Not enough, or it drying up before you go shoot the gun...

Some of that wear is normal, but it does look a little heavier than it should. It could be as simple as them not preparing the frame correctly, and it wore thru the outer surface faster than it should have. It could also be not enough lube.

I will say that the quality of the Berettas made at the TN factory has gone downhill over the past few years. And, there have been more complaints about the guns made in Italy as well. I am a HUGE Beretta fanatic. But, the customer service and quality has taken a nose dive lately.


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Sbeven said:


> View attachment 22539


Some of this isn't wear... At least it doesn't look like it.

Did you take this picture after shooting, and before you cleaned it? Some of that looks like gun powder residue on the frame. I am not at home with photoshop, so I can't circle the part in red that I am talking about. But, the area behind and around the trigger spring looks like it needs to be cleaned.

Is that what it is, or it that the actual finish AFTER the gun is cleaned?


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## Sbeven (3 mo ago)

Shipwreck said:


> Some of this isn't wear... At least it doesn't look like it.
> 
> Did you take this picture after shooting, and before you cleaned it? Some of that looks like gun powder residue on the frame. I am not at home with photoshop, so I can't circle the part in red that I am talking about. But, the area behind and around the trigger spring looks like it needs to be cleaned.
> 
> Is that what it is, or it that the actual finish AFTER the gun is cleaned?


That would just be residue, I wiped it down for the picture to better see the wear, the finish itself is black except on areas where it is being worn off


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## Sbeven (3 mo ago)

Shipwreck said:


> No, don't do that. You should not need to put in a stronger recoil spring. I don't think it would make a difference for the wear. And, you could affect reliability, and could actually increase wear possibly.
> 
> The recoil spring is officially rated to be changed every 5000 rounds. Honestly, I would do it every 3-5k rounds. The longer you go without a recoil spring change, you increase the likelihood of a locking block breakage. So, never go past 5k rounds. But, I do it between 3750 and 4k rounds.You have less than 1000 rounds thru that. If you REALLY want to change it - you can get one from gunsprings.com for just a few dollars. But, it should not need to be changed. And, I would not mess with the spring weight. Go with what it calls for.
> 
> ...


I'll go heavy on the oil and keep an eye on it, generally I use Tetra for anything more than casual use and that stuff is more thick. I'm not particularly worried about the finish, that was something I expected to come with use, I am worried about the frame where it appears the barrel is digging into it; not sure about how long it could take but it looks like it could eventually crack the frame.


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## berettatoter (Sep 1, 2011)

Shipwreck said:


> No, don't do that. You should not need to put in a stronger recoil spring. I don't think it would make a difference for the wear. And, you could affect reliability, and could actually increase wear possibly.
> 
> The recoil spring is officially rated to be changed every 5000 rounds. Honestly, I would do it every 3-5k rounds. The longer you go without a recoil spring change, you increase the likelihood of a locking block breakage. So, never go past 5k rounds. But, I do it between 3750 and 4k rounds.You have less than 1000 rounds thru that. If you REALLY want to change it - you can get one from gunsprings.com for just a few dollars. But, it should not need to be changed. And, I would not mess with the spring weight. Go with what it calls for.
> 
> ...


Yeah, it has. The better be careful, because Girsan makes the Regard and sorry, it's every bit the gun a "modern" 92 is. JMHO.


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## gwpercle (Jun 8, 2018)

Try using some gun grease or Lucas Red-N-Tacky automotive grease on those metal to metal rubbing points of slide and frame ... Oil isn't going to do the job ...
You need something Heavy Duty .
When AMT came out with the first stainless steel 1911 45 acp Hardballer in 1977 , I bought the first one I could find 1978 and was advised by AMT to use Lucas
R-N-T grease on the sliding parts , frame and rail ... at that time stainless steel and galling hadn't been worked out completely ... galling between the different fomulations of metals happened sometimes . I'm not sure but you may have some galling going on between the Alloy frame and Stainless Steel slide , even though it is black finish ... the steel is stainless . I have a sneaking suspicion that a film of Lucas Red-N-Tacky Grease may solve / help the problem ... it won't hurt !
A 14 oz. tube of Lucas R-N-T is $6.98 at wally mart in automotive section ... a lifetime supply !
Gary


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## Javbike (Oct 21, 2021)

Stop with the rem oil that gun is hella dry clean it up e we it’s solvent give it a good oil like action oil run your gun a little wetter and little dab of rigs grease on the rails


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

gwpercle said:


> Try using some gun grease or Lucas Red-N-Tacky automotive grease on those metal to metal rubbing points of slide and frame ... Oil isn't going to do the job ...
> You need something Heavy Duty .
> When AMT came out with the first stainless steel 1911 45 acp Hardballer in 1977 , I bought the first one I could find 1978 and was advised by AMT to use Lucas
> R-N-T grease on the sliding parts , frame and rail ... at that time stainless steel and galling hadn't been worked out completely ... galling between the different fomulations of metals happened sometimes . I'm not sure but you may have some galling going on between the Alloy frame and Stainless Steel slide , even though it is black finish ... the steel is stainless . I have a sneaking suspicion that a film of Lucas Red-N-Tacky Grease may solve / help the problem ... it won't hurt !
> ...


The slide on a Beretta is carbon steel, not stainless. Unless you buy an Inox model. With the anodized frame, galling is never an issue. But yea - I've had galling issues on all stainless guns many years ago. It can be a pain. They SHOULD be using a different type of stainless on the frame, as compared to the slide, to prevent this. But, it can happen. 

There are some people who use grease on their Berettas at the Beretta Forum, though. I've never been one for grease, but you can use it.


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Sbeven said:


> That would just be residue, I wiped it down for the picture to better see the wear, the finish itself is black except on areas where it is being worn off


It just makes the frame look even worse is all. At first glance - I thought - wow. Then I looked closer...


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## mur.cap (7 mo ago)

Hard to tell from a photo but it looks like ammo pressure vs. lubrication. Try ordering a small jar of LPS Premium All-Purpose Anti-Seize. It's a high heat lubricant. Part # 04108 from LPS Laboratories, Tucker, GA 30085-5052 Tel. 800-241-8334. It gets right into the metal for lubing. I used it on my Boberg 9mm before the company went out of business was sold to Bond Co. with the Bullpup 9mm.


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## Goldwing (Nov 5, 2014)

Sbeven said:


> I'm the original owner, not sure if it would have something to do with it but I got it late 2021; and I'm pretty sure its a recent manufacture.
> I do recall the tolerances being pretty tight when I first got it, primarily it got pretty tight when putting the slide back on the frame during reassembly


I use Motorkote on my slide to frame surfaces. Two dips of a Q-tip will get it done. It treats the metal and prevents wear. It can be used with whatever quality gun oil/grease you prefer.
The Motorkote will last through several cleanings so I only need to use it again when I do a detail strip and clean.
Not recommended for triggers, sears, firing pins etc. Think big reciprocating assemblies.


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## mur.cap (7 mo ago)

Goldwing said:


> I use Motorkote on my slide to frame surfaces. Two dips of a Q-tip will get it done. It treats the metal and prevents wear. It can be used with whatever quality gun oil/grease you prefer.
> The Motorkote will last through several cleanings so I only need to use it again when I do a detail strip and clean.
> Not recommended for triggers, sears, firing pins etc. Think big reciprocating assemblies.


This stuff basically gets down to the atoms in the metal. Anything that has friction wear is where is should be lubed. Molybdenum disulfide is an inorganic compound composed of molybdenum and sulfur. Its chemical formula is MoS ₂. The compound is classified as a transition metal dichalcogenide. It is a silvery black solid that occurs as the mineral molybdenite, the principal ore for molybdenum. MoS ₂ is relatively unreactive.


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## guydodge (3 mo ago)

use wilson combat grease on slides and moving parts not oil.you will immediately feel the difference.


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

Sbeven said:


> I'm the original owner, not sure if it would have something to do with it but I got it late 2021; and I'm pretty sure its a recent manufacture.
> I do recall the tolerances being pretty tight when I first got it, primarily it got pretty tight when putting the slide back on the frame during reassembly


Something sounds amiss. You acquired the pistol in late 2021 and you're pretty sure it's a recent manufacture. Was the pistol brand new in the box? 
More troubling is tolerances being pretty tight(which the 92 series should be) but it got pretty tight putting the slide back on, is not normal. Should be like butter even with packing oil. 
Beretta 92 frames should go at least 35,000 rounds if the pistol is maintained properly especially changing the recoil spring every 5,000 rounds or so.
In my mind from what I'm seeing is normal w/o me personally inspecting it. 

The black finish on the frame wears off immediately where the slide meets the frame and this is normal. I use Birchwood Casey aluminum black if I want my frame all black again.


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