# 686 cylinder unlocks while shooting



## TrafficsKindaBad (Aug 23, 2013)

My 686 revolver with a 2.5" barrel is great. However, sometimes while shooting I find that after I shoot a round I can't pull the trigger in double action or the hammer for single action because the cylinder has come unlocked. I don't mean that the cylinder swings out of the frame, but I have to turn it a few degrees in order to line it back up with the next cartridge and feel the click. Just like when pushing a full cylinder into the frame of the gun I may have to turn it until I feel that click that the hammer is lined up with the first round. Is this a timing issue? Or possibly the teeth on the gear-looking thing (don't know the technical term) that rotates the cylinder while cocking? I'm sure someone else has had this problem. Thanks everyone.


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

If it were the "gear-looking thing" (the cylinder ratchet), the trigger and hammer would still work properly, and the cylinder would still turn and eventually line up correctly.
So I believe that that's not it.

I suspect that you are placing your thumb on the frame in such a place that, in recoil, it briefly presses against the cylinder release. That would open the cylinder just enough to tie up the trigger and hammer.
The only way to keep the trigger from working, and to freeze the hammer, is to open the cylinder. Therefore, that's what you're doing.

Find somewhere else to put your thumb.


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## TrafficsKindaBad (Aug 23, 2013)

Thanks. I did think of that and I've tried to make an effort to hold my thumb up, but I think I just start having too much fun shooting and forget to work on sound mechanics. I agree and think there's a pretty good chance that's what's going on here. I'll work on it and see. I've also been switching between a couple of grips and I think the larger rubber grip I've got on it now might be too large for my small hands, thus positioning my thumb in an ineffective spot.


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Don't put your thumb up.
Curl it _down_, so it touches (or almost touches) your second finger.

That'll fix the problem.


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## TrafficsKindaBad (Aug 23, 2013)

Ok. I'll give it a try tomorrow, thanks.


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## TrafficsKindaBad (Aug 23, 2013)

So... I went out to the gravel pit with a box of .38 and a box of 357. I made certain not to touch the cylinder release and I worked on my grip while I was at it. I am now 99% convinced that the problem is mechanical. It seems that there is one chamber in the cylinder that the locking up tends to happen while turning to line up with the breach. This manifests itself by making the first half of a double action pull nearly impossible with proper placement of my trigger finger--I've really got to pull and there's no maintaining aim while pulling that hard. If shooting in single action, the hammer is also quite hard in coming back. However, if I open up the cylinder and close it again (maintaining the same orientation), it will usually work. Very odd. Is it time to go to a gunsmith or should it go to SW?


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## pic (Nov 14, 2009)

Might be a bent ejector rod assembly . Not sure if that is what they're called. Especially if its happening at the same spot on the cylinder
Sometimes from slamming the cylinder closed it can cause an issue


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Good advice, *pic*.

Gunsmith first, S&W second...unless the gun is still under warranty and you don't mind being without it for a couple of weeks.


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## Bob Wright (May 10, 2006)

I'd have my gunsmith check the trigger pivot pin. I had mine shear off on my Model 29. This made trigger pull/cylinder rotation extremely hard. Even though the pin had sheared off, the parts stayed in their relative positions enough that the gun did fire.

Bob Wright


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

In addition to the great advice and pointers given above, I'd request that you check two different items:

- In the area under the extractor (gear-looking thing), look for any unburned gunpowder granules. If you see any, either on the extractor OR in the cut part of the cylinder where it sits, clean them out and try shooting it again. If you get a chunk of crud under the extractor, it will sometimes keep it from fully seating, and that can cause cylinder rotational problems similar to what you are experiencing.

- A very loose (coming unscrewed) extractor rod. If it gets unscrewed too far, it becomes too long to allow the cylinder to properly close and stay closed (it may bind on the spring-loaded pin (called the locking bolt) in the area under the barrel). Instead of snapping into place with the tip of the locking bolt inside the end of the extractor, the tip of the extractor rod stays to the left, pushing against the SIDE of the locking bolt. If this happens, it can cause cylinder binding during rotation like what you described. CAUTION: If the extractor rod is loose, on newer S&W revolvers like yours, remember you have to turn it the OPPOSITE way of a normal screw-threaded part to tighten it (it's a left-handed threaded part).


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## TrafficsKindaBad (Aug 23, 2013)

Great advice all around. Thanks. I will certainly bring it to someone who knows more about the firearm than I do to work on it.


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## TomC (Sep 5, 2006)

Another place to look is the cylinder stop and cylinder stop spring. S&W made heavier springs for the .500s because the spring couldn't hold the cylinder stop in place during recoil and the cylinder would unlock. The heavier springs for the .500 work just fine in everything else. They have a blue finish. You could just call the factory and get a couple.


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## desertman (Aug 29, 2013)

TomC:
"Another place to look is the cylinder stop and cylinder stop spring." I had that problem with a new S&W Model 49 Bodyguard and for the same reason you stated, I replaced the spring and the problem was solved.


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## shelbyv8 (Apr 21, 2014)

Also make sure you are not short stroking the trigger.


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