# Cleaning the M&P 9



## berudd (Jan 22, 2016)

I just bought an M&P 9 last week, my first pistol. I have a cabinet full of supplies to clean my rifles and shotguns and picked up a 9mm brush when I bought the gun. I just field stripped it and cleaned the barrel and slide with CLP and that was straight forward enough. I noticed powder fouling on the mechanism inside the frame. I put a little CLP on a patch and rubbed it down then followed up with a clean cloth.

My question is will I ever need to more fully disassemble the frame to ensure better cleaning of the mechanics inside? Also, are there any pistol cleaning specific tools that make the basic field strip and clean easier. There are lots of small nock and crannies in there and while I was able to clean them fine it seemed like there might be a better way.


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## dennis40x (Feb 27, 2014)

A one piece brass cleaning rod, 38Spl/9mm jag, toothbrush, and Kano Kroil (used as bore cleaner). Is what I use. Gun scrubber (Synthetic Safe) for flushing out the crud and corruption. I really don't go beyond the basic field stripping. But if you like to take things apart (S&W MP Pistols disassembly and reassembly by Gun Guides  Disassembly and Reassembly. When all else fails follow the S&W lubricating procedures in the owners guide. Dripping wet over lubricated is problematic. I would replace the OEM magazine floor plates with Apex/10-8 floor plates also.


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## SouthernBoy (Jun 27, 2007)

I own quite a few M&P pistols, one of which is an M&P 9 Pro Series 4.25" barrel, which has been shot quite a bit. Several different sizes of patches and Q-Tips are your friend. Also, pick up some Hornady's One Shot Dry Lube. It both lubes and cleans. Depending upon how often you shoot, you might want to consider a detailed disassembly a few times a year. I do this with my Glocks, but then they are far easier to detail strip than is the M&P pistol.


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## Malcap (Apr 19, 2016)

My Smith 9 Shield is new as of last Fall. I'm a stickler with cleaning but with the polymer I don't like to totally disassemble it after shooting about 50-75 rounds once a week. So I perform a "field cleaning" at home. I use a Bore Snake, and either Bore Scrubber, Hoppes Elite, Hoppes No. 9, or Rem Oil to clean the bore and the chamber. I use a soft toothbrush to clean the breech face. Since the gun has a CTC Green Laserguard sight, I'm careful not to get any solvent inside. I also use Q-Tips as well. I lube with Rem Oil, or Hoppes Oil on the barrel, rails and where the manual indicates under the slide. I disassemble the gun once a month for regular cleaning and then use a rod. HINT: One of my "secret ingredients" which I rub on any metal parts which rub against other metal parts, especially the barrel, I smear some LPS Premium All Purpose Anti-Seize, Part No. 04108 (non copper) which is good for heat and pressure areas. It contains molybdenum and gets into the metal "pores." I just give it a light coating. 1/2 lbs. jar for about 8.00 plus shipping. Don't forget to use the Q-Tips to clean under the mag lips. I replaced to of my mags springs with a Magguts two spring system to increase the mag capacity by one round.


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