# problem with new GP100 revolver's trigger assembly take down pin/plunger sticking



## ramhorn (Jan 4, 2014)

I recently have purchased a brand new Ruger GP100 revolver from a gun show. After bring it home I did what I always do with the new purchase of a weapon I familureize myself with it by assembly and disassembly. right away I found that the take down pin/plunger for the trigger assembly was stuck and could not be depressed in the way instructed by the directions with the mainspring assembly it also hurt the hand while trying it. I called ruger tech support in NH. And was told to use a small screwdriver and hammer and tap lightly on the pin/plunger to get it to release. I followed those instructions reluctantly because I'm not use to using any tools to disassemble my rugers. So I prceeded to tap lightly on the pin/plunger and it went down to what I think was about halfway travel and did not pop back up. So I continued to tap until it popped up. That was a releaf I must say. But still determined to deassemble the weapon I proceeded to try again by lightly tapping. This time the pin/plunger tralveled a little more freely and I was able to remove the trigger assembly. Afterwards I continued to assemble and disassemble the gun still having problems with the takedown pin/plunger getting stuck up, down, halfway, all positions of travel. Being so preoccupied with this problematic pin/plunger I made the a bone head move I missed a step in the takedown proceedure by not removing the hammer before the trigger assembly I attemted to remove the trigger assembly and found that I could not. And somehow while doing that the trigger and hammer both got stuck in their forward positions a problem I could not fix so ruger had the gun picked up shipped back to them fixed it and returned it to me all in one weeks time. After getting the gun back I found that the trigger assembly takedown pin/plunger was still sticky ass hell and required tapping with the small hammer and screwdriver. I disassembled and reassembled the weapon a number of times noting that that the pin/plunger continued to get stuck at times in the down or either the halfway position. One time upon reassembly afer replacing everything but the mainspring assembly I saw that the trigger assembly pin/plunger had not retuned all the way to the rest position so I thought a light tap would do the trick and cause it to jump to the all the way up position. After a few light taps it would go down but not all the way up. then I gave it a tap and noticed that the trigger assembly moved out of position slighty and popped back in after that happened I discovered that the hammer and trigger were stuck again just like the first time I sent the gun back. hate to half to send it back again but will if nessesary. Hey got any suggestions


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

ramhorn said:


> ...Hey got any suggestions


1. Paragraphs are your friend...and ours. They make our reading job much easier.

2. Contact Ruger, because something is seriously wrong. You may have to send it in for repair. If you do, make sure that Ruger pays for all of the shipping, since the gun is brand-new.


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## paratrooper (Feb 1, 2012)

I've purchased tons of new handguns over the years, and the last thing on my mind, was to tear um down to better familiarize myself with them. 

I don't do it with new cars either. 

But hey......maybe it's just me..............:smt033


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## Glock Doctor (Mar 14, 2011)

Send it back to Ruger. Ask them to replace the entire trigger guard assembly. Barring that, ask Ruger to replace the latch spring and associated parts. Polishing the hole ID might help, too. If you still have problems with that trigger guard latch then I suggest you have a gunsmith disassemble the latch, polish the components, and ID wall, lubricate everything, and (perhaps) replace the latch spring for you (Parts 65 through 70 on the standard GP-100 schematic.) 

Sounds like you might be a little OCD about this; but, yes, this is a part that has to operate in order for you to thoroughly clean the pistol. The latch was working before you began; it worked the first time, or two, after you took things apart; and, then, it stopped working. You, also, haven't mentioned trying to lubricate or polish anything BEFORE tapping it out with a hammer. 

New guns can be, 'sticky'. Get yourself a can of Kroil and thoroughly soak sticky new parts (ideally overnight) before attempting any sort of, 'tap 'n bang' mechanical disassembly. The other thing to remember is that you are applying force at an angle; and the parts might be binding up because of being pushed towards the opposite side. 

Suggest you make some more, 'noise' with Ruger. Ask them to, at least, give you new latch parts and replace the spring. Remember to lubricate BEFORE you start banging, too. (By the way, what do you think of my nice paragraphs? Easy to read, right!) :smt002


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## ramhorn (Jan 4, 2014)

you don't use a new car for self defence or protection either. Comparing new car to new gun, bad analogy. Never in the military most likely. Taking apart a car with thousands of parts is on thing. A gun is quite the different animal.


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## paratrooper (Feb 1, 2012)

ramhorn said:


> you don't use a new car for self defence or protection either comparing new car to new gun, dumb analogy.


You haven't seen some of the neighborhoods I used to work in. A good car was definitely part of a good self-defense plan.


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## OGCJason (Nov 4, 2013)

ramhorn said:


> you don't use a new car for self defence or protection either comparing new car to new gun, dumb analogy.





paratrooper said:


> I've purchased tons of new handguns over the years, and the last thing on my mind, was to tear um down to better familiarize myself with them.
> 
> I don't do it with new cars either.
> 
> But hey......maybe it's just me..............:smt033


I don't think it's a dumb analogy, I think it's a good one. Truth be told I DO, think that knowing how to maintain your gear (either cars or guns) is an essential part of ownership. You gonna call someone every time your car needs gas or your gun needs ammo? Basic skills in the operation of either is an essential part of owning either. I'll be damned if I am gonna fill my wife's car with gas. Heck, if I have any say in things, she's gonna learn how to drive stick AND shoot a gun smartly before 2014 is over!


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## ramhorn (Jan 4, 2014)

Yes, mabey calling it dumb was a little extreme I've since revised my statement, all I'm saying in the Marines we were required to disassemble and reassemble our weapons numerous time upon issue. For ovious reasons. You might find yourself in a situation where it is necessary to tear it down and reassemble it in a damned hurry. I good familiarity with it's nomenclature might come in handy.


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## Glock Doctor (Mar 14, 2011)

paratrooper said:


> You haven't seen some of the neighborhoods I used to work in. A good car was definitely part of a good self-defense plan.


Whenever you're attacked while inside (or near) a vehicle, the vehicle, itself, is always your first available means of defense. It's either: cover, escape, a mobile weapon, or ALL of the preceding.


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## paratrooper (Feb 1, 2012)

Glock Doctor said:


> Whenever you're attacked while inside (or near) a vehicle, the vehicle, itself, is always your first available means of defense. It's either: cover, escape, a mobile weapon, or ALL of the preceding.


I guess I should have better explained my initial post. The OP stated that he bought a new revolver, and he disassembled it in an effort to better familiarize himself with the gun and it's components. I just thought that it was rather odd that he would do that to a revolver. I even did a search of he Ruger revolver in question, just to make sure that I was thinking along the lines of what he had purchased. From what I can tell, it's a typical revolver.

I field strip all my semi-autos at some point after purchasing them. I've never found any reason to strip them any further. I've never had any problems or issues that required any one of them to be completely disassembled. Since I'm not a gunsmith, I would not feel comfortable doing so.

As far as my revolvers go, they have always been a S&W, with the exception of a Colt Python and a Dan Wesson Pistol Pac, bought years ago. I've swapped grips many times, and sights a few times. I've never felt the need to disassemble any revolver to the point that it became a jig-saw puzzle.

I was in the military and did my time. Our arms consisted of using a Colt M-16, a Colt .45 or an M-60 Machine Gun. We were limited to field-stripping them only and no further. Anything that required further attention, went to our company armorer.

I'm also aware that military and civilian use of firearms is a completely different world, when it comes to the need to field-strip a weapon. One world really can't be compared to the other, short of a full-out civil war.


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## Glock Doctor (Mar 14, 2011)

paratrooper said:


> I guess I should have better explained my initial post. The OP stated that he bought a new revolver, and he disassembled it in an effort to better familiarize himself with the gun and it's components. I just thought that it was rather odd that he would do that to a revolver. I even did a search of the Ruger revolver in question, just to make sure that I was thinking along the lines of what he had purchased. From what I can tell, it's a typical revolver. .......


All I'm saying is that you're right! 

Ruger revolvers are, 'a cat of a different color' to anyone who's used to working on either Smith or Colt revolvers. The part the OP is referring to is very similar to the trigger group release on an SKS carbine; and it does have to be operated in order to give the trigger group a good cleaning (like once or twice a year at most). The thing is that the first time, or two, a release like this is operated you can expect it to be a little, 'stiff'. This one seems to have gotten a bit out of hand. (I'm sure Ruger will set it straight, though.)


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

I gotta note: Back when automobiles had manual transmissions, coil-fed distributors, and carburetors (and some even had easily-accessed valve adjustments), I was instructed in the basic field-strip-and-table-of-stoppages for the "generic automobile."

Once, during the dark depths of WW2, I watched as my mother actually fixed our 1941 Plymouth with a hair-pin. The coil wire got loose in the distributor cap, so she wedged it in with an ordinary bobby-pin. That held fast until 1948, when we bought a new Chrysler.


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## paratrooper (Feb 1, 2012)

Steve M1911A1 said:


> I gotta note: Back when automobiles had manual transmissions, coil-fed distributors, and carburetors (and some even had easily-accessed valve adjustments), I was instructed in the basic field-strip-and-table-of-stoppages for the "generic automobile."
> 
> Once, during the dark depths of WW2, I watched as my mother actually fixed our 1941 Plymouth with a hair-pin. The coil wire got loose in the distributor cap, so she wedged it in with an ordinary bobby-pin. That held fast until 1948, when we bought a new Chrysler.


And here, all this time, I've been using a 10 lb. dead-blow hammer. :smt033


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

paratrooper said:


> And here, all this time, I've been using a 10 lb. dead-blow hammer. :smt033


That only works on mules.

(Plymouths were somewhat different from mules. But not much.)


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## paratrooper (Feb 1, 2012)

My first car was a four door 1968 Rambler Ambassador. It had the push-button transmission on the dash. 

It also had a 327 ci engine, and it was fire engine red with a bright white top. 

Although I never had to use a hammer on it, I did have to raise the hood, reach down to the starter, and use a couple of fingers and push on part of the starter, in order to start it. Back then, money was tight and I couldn't afford a new starter.


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## ramhorn (Jan 4, 2014)

never said anything about completely disassembeling the GP100 to the point it became a jigsaw puzzle. field stripping only. must have mixed my statement up with someone elses.


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