# Model 37 Revolver



## dannyb (Jun 17, 2008)

I was at a gun shop and saw a blued snub nose off in the corner of the shelf. I had just been trying out airweights at a different store/range and discovered that I didn't really like the current crop. This one was a used but in good shape Model 37. The hammer and trigger still have their case color, the cylinder, frame, and barrel are blue but showing some wear here and there. No cracks or serious dings. It felt really good in hand, so I bought it. 

I have shot some fairly anemic wad cutters with it, it's still not the kind of joy I get with my Model 19 or Model 620, but not awful either. Biggest problem is that the top of the butt kicks right into the web between my thumb and finger. 

My question is, is this gun actually safe to shoot with regular .38 spl. ammo? I'm not sure about even asking about +P.


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## Mike Barham (Mar 30, 2006)

It's perfectly safe with standard-pressure .38 Specials. +P will accelerate wear on the gun, but it won't blow up or anything.

If the 37 has the old skinny wood grips on it, try something more hand-filling for best comfort.


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

The model 36 and 37 difference is steel frame M-36 and scandium M-37. Yours will do just fine with .38's for practice and +P's for carry if you feel you need them. I carried one for many years and never felt the need of the +P'. I still carry a M-36 some today and I don't feel under gunned when I do. You have a fine revolver that will serve you well.:smt023


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## dannyb (Jun 17, 2008)

Baldy, thanks for the information. I was a bit worried when I realized it was not a steel frame. Somehow, the little thing still spoke to me about lying there on the shelf mostly hidden. So I bought it and figured that I'd keep it out of the way if it turned out not to be safe. Still feels better in the hand than the current crop of airweights IMHO. 

I'll see if I can find some pachmayrs for it. I shot it at 10 yards at a 100 yard small bore target (didn't know what to expect) and managed to keep everything in the black. No tack driver this one, but not bad either.


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## Baldy (Jun 21, 2006)

Mr Danny you might think anout getting a set of Tyler T Grips for it. Some guys like them and some don't. I have a set on one of my M-36's and I have Hogue Mono Grips on the other. Both of these M-36's are good shooters and lock up tight. Blued is a 1973 and the Nickeled is a 1983. :smt1099


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## Bob Wright (May 10, 2006)

I have a couple of J-Frame Smiths and have stocked them with Eagle's Secret Service grips, of rosewood.

When carrying for social purposes, I load up with Federal's Self Defense load, a non- +P ammunition with a 110gr. JHP.

My J-Frames:










Still prefer my Model 19, though.

Bob Wright

P.S. A model 36 Chief's Special and a 442 Centennial.


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## dannyb (Jun 17, 2008)

Bob, Baldy, and anybody else who chimed in - I thank you for your interest and advice. Based on the information I got from this thread, I looked at various aftermarket grips. I am primarily interested in shooting grips rather than presentation grips. My problem was that the web of skin between my thumb and forefinger is right at the level of the metal top of the butt part of the frame. The recoil of even mild ammo sends that thing jamming into that area. It's not intense pain, but not pleasant either.

I looked at Hogue, Tyler T, and Pachmayr. Pachmayr has a rubber grip designed for the square butt J frame; that grip also covers the area in question to some degree. I have it on order and will let y'all know how they work out. If I ever move beyond Liberal Land (in this case, SE PA), I'll consider beautifying my firearms and putting them on display. As it is, many visitors would have intense gastritis at seeing such items because it would remind them that we do not live in the perfect world that they desire. So, for the moment, I'll settle for functional, take my things to the range, have fun, and smile my inner smile when somebody starts talking about how snubbies are only for killing.:smt083


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## Bob Wright (May 10, 2006)

My grips are for shooting - that's why I took those awful fake rubber grips off in the first place.

Admittedly, I don't shoot my little guns as heavily as I do my single actions or big Smiths, as I don't feel they would hold up under that kind of shooting. But they do get shot enough that the rubber abrades my hand. I'll take wood, or preferably, ivory.


Bob Wright


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## dannyb (Jun 17, 2008)

*Post range session update*

I guess that Pachmayrs fit my small hands better than other grips. I put them on and put 100 rounds of .38 158 Gr. FMJ through the thing. No problem with the web between thumb and forefinger, a little irritation from the trigger, but nothing awful. Huge difference from the original wood grips.

I don't think that anyone would consider this revolver a tack driver, but I kept it in the black (25 Yd slow fire target) at 5 and 7 yards. Oddly enough, it feels more comfortable firing single hand than with Weaver or turret stance. It'll improve some with practice I suppose.


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## skoro (Apr 16, 2008)

dannyb said:


> My question is, is this gun actually safe to shoot with regular .38 spl. ammo? I'm not sure about even asking about +P.


The Model 37 uses an aluminum alloy frame, thus the "Airweight" title. If your 37 is in good shape, it'll handle the standard .38 rounds with no trouble whatsoever. Rare use of +P will cause it to wear faster, as the old alloy S&W revolvers aren't as strong as the new alloy j-frames OR the old steel j-frames.

Buffalo Bore makes some stout standard pressure .38 Special ammo that's plenty powerful enough for just about any personal defense situation. It's what I carry in my old 1959 Model 37. Loaded with the hollow points or the hardcast wadcutters, there's really no need for +P.


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