# Ruger 22 disassembly?



## Shipwreck

I keep hearing how big a pain in the butt these Ruger Mark 3's are to disassemble. I took a shooting class when I was 12 or 14, and I remember using 1. They made us clean it, but its been so long, I can't remember everything.

Can someone post some photos showing your to do that step by step?

I want to by a Target 22 later this year, and the polymer 22/45 caught my interest. Just woindering what I'm getting myself into...


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## P97

You might try this site. http://www.wiztechs.com/knightsrealm/guns/22-45/instructions.htm


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## Shipwreck

Hey, U da man. That doesn't look that bad.

I wish I had something to sell to come up w/ $200. There is a 22/45 4" barreled version with fixed white dot sites that I like at my local shop. 

It'll probably be Aug before I can come up w/ the cash ($221) after buying my PS90 and w/ a baby on the way. But, I really like the gun 

Thanks for that link.


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## martial_field

I have one and yes, they are a real pain to disassemble and reassemble. Some of the operations must be done with the magazine in and some out to add to the confusion. I get it done but I usually find myself won dering why anyone would build a pistol that is so hard to disassemble for field strip cleaning.


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## Baldy

The only Ruger auto I have is the old MarkI or standard .22. The frist time is a little rough but after that it is a piece of cake.


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## Shipwreck

Thats kinda what I figured. I thought I'd end up w/ a Buckmark, but I think I'll get a Ruger 22/45 w/ the fixed white dot sights... Just a matter of when....


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## DJ Niner

Baldy said:


> The only Ruger auto I have is the old MarkI or standard .22. The frist time is a little rough but after that it is a piece of cake.


Yeah, that's the one I learned on too, Baldy, but these new-fangled MK-IIIs have the darn magazine disconnect on them. Every time you need to pull the trigger to move the hammer, you have to insert a mag, and then take it out afterwards so it doesn't interfere with the takedown or reassembly. It converts a slightly tricky procedure (easily learned with a few repetitions) to a real pain in the arse...

Glad the MK-IIs are pretty close to the Standard/MK-I system; makes it easier for this semi-old fart.


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## Baldy

DJ Niner said:


> Yeah, that's the one I learned on too, Baldy, but these new-fangled MK-IIIs have the darn magazine disconnect on them. Every time you need to pull the trigger to move the hammer, you have to insert a mag, and then take it out afterwards so it doesn't interfere with the takedown or reassembly. It converts a slightly tricky procedure (easily learned with a few repetitions) to a real pain in the arse...
> 
> Glad the MK-IIs are pretty close to the Standard/MK-I system; makes it easier for this semi-old fart.


 Oh me that just shows you how old I am. Sure hope I didn't miss led anybody. Thanks DJ Niner for telling me about that mag disconnect.:smt023


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## Shipwreck

I knew about the magazine disconnect, but forgot how it would affect disassembly - I was wondering why the instruction stated to put the mag in and out...


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## John Fox

*Fieldstripping*

Look up "mark III fieldstipping procedures" on your PC. It should give you everything you need.


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## 2400

I took the mag disconnect out of my MKIII and swapped the MKIII hammer for a MKII version. It works like it's supposed to now. :smt033


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## Shipwreck

2400 said:


> I took the mag disconnect out of my MKIII and swapped the MKIII hammer for a MKII version. It works like it's supposed to now. :smt033


Well, stupid me doesn't have those skills


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## 2400

2400 said:


> I took the mag disconnect out of my MKIII and swapped the MKIII hammer for a MKII version. It works like it's supposed to now. :smt033





Shipwreck said:


> Well, stupid me doesn't have those skills


Then buy a NIB MKII. :mrgreen:


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## Shipwreck

2400 said:


> Then buy a NIB MKII. :mrgreen:


Well, I want the 22/45 grip - and I want the fixed sites w/ white dots already installed. Don't think they make such an animal in MKII.


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## marcodo

AAARRRRGGGGHHH!!!
Went to a local big gun show and saw a new ruger mark 3 22/45 4" barrel. On a wim I bought it for $249. Part of the advantage was that the county clerks office had representatives there and I was able to add it on my permit right there and walk out with the gun...here in NY it can be a real PITA otherwise. Beautiful piece fit well in my hand. Brought it home to clean before the first shoot. Broke down very easily. Trying to get it back together was impossible for me (I am relatively new to guns over all). I ended up with a bunch of pieces I couldn't get back in and I somehow locked up the gun now so that I can't disasemble it! OOOUUUCCCHHH! I will need to bring it to a gunsmith to put back together. My sense is that once I get to figure it out the right way it will be fine. The gun otherwise feels great in the hand and I am very anxious to shoot it. The rumers that this is more difficult to field strip are true, to me anyway...YMMV (my XD9 field strips like a dream)


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## 2400

marcodo said:


> AAARRRRGGGGHHH!!!
> Brought it home to clean before the first shoot. Broke down very easily. *Trying to get it back together was impossible for me* (I am relatively new to guns over all). I ended up with a bunch of pieces I couldn't get back in and I somehow locked up the gun now so that I can't disasemble it! OOOUUUCCCHHH! I will need to bring it to a gunsmith to put back together. My sense is that once I get to figure it out the right way it will be fine.


Get the owners manual out. 
LOOK at the parts they discuss for take down and reassembly. 
READ the instructions on reassemble.
FOLLOW the instructions exactly.

OR click on this link and follow the pics and instructions. http://www.wiztechs.com/knightsrealm/guns/22-45/instructions.htm


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## marcodo

marcodo said:


> AAARRRRGGGGHHH!!!
> Went to a local big gun show and saw a new ruger mark 3 22/45 4" barrel. On a wim I bought it for $249. Part of the advantage was that the county clerks office had representatives there and I was able to add it on my permit right there and walk out with the gun...here in NY it can be a real PITA otherwise. Beautiful piece fit well in my hand. Brought it home to clean before the first shoot. Broke down very easily. Trying to get it back together was impossible for me (I am relatively new to guns over all). I ended up with a bunch of pieces I couldn't get back in and I somehow locked up the gun now so that I can't disasemble it! OOOUUUCCCHHH! I will need to bring it to a gunsmith to put back together. My sense is that once I get to figure it out the right way it will be fine. The gun otherwise feels great in the hand and I am very anxious to shoot it. The rumers that this is more difficult to field strip are true, to me anyway...YMMV (my XD9 field strips like a dream)


Well took it back to the gun show today just to see what the dealer had to say...hey you never know! While he was looking at my bag of parts I noticed he had a Buckmark Micro Nickel 4". I liked the way it felt and he was willing to take back the ruger and for $20 more sold me the buckmark. Shoots great..needs a little breaking in but so far so good. I'm sure the ruger would have been ok after a while but it left a bad taste in my mouth!!:smt076 Anyone know anything about the Buckmark Micro nickel...good deal or not?


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## Shipwreck

Well, enjoy the Buckmark. My choices are down to the Ruger and Buckmark, but I Think I may get the Ruger - when I do buy one. Who knows, though, maybe I'll change my mind.

Academy used to sell a Buckmark with a fiber optic front sight - I don't see them anywhere anymore, though. I don't like all black sights, and most 22s come with that. And, I don't wanna go to the added expense of addeding a site after I buy the gun. So, that's why I liked that particular ruger. It has white dot sights.


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## 2400

marcodo said:


> Well took it back to the gun show today just to see what the dealer had to say...hey you never know!* While he was looking at my bag of parts* I noticed he had a Buckmark Micro Nickel 4". I liked the way it felt and he was willing to take back the ruger and for $20 more sold me the buckmark. Shoots great..needs a little breaking in but so far so good. I'm sure the ruger would have been ok after a while but it left a bad taste in my mouth!!:smt076 Anyone know anything about the Buckmark Micro nickel...good deal or not?


Don't take it apart! :smt082 :smt082 :smt082


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## triton54s

Shipwreck said:


> Well, enjoy the Buckmark. My choices are down to the Ruger and Buckmark, but I Think I may get the Ruger - when I do buy one. Who knows, though, maybe I'll change my mind.
> 
> Academy used to sell a Buckmark with a fiber optic front sight - I don't see them anywhere anymore, though. I don't like all black sights, and most 22s come with that. And, I don't wanna go to the added expense of addeding a site after I buy the gun. So, that's why I liked that particular ruger. It has white dot sights.


I was going for a 512 blued target model. When I went in to pick it up I asked the clerk to disassemble it so I could see how its done, after about an hour he gave up saying it was going back to Ruger. Being that I was looking forward to shooting that .22 all week I looked at the other models. Between a 4 inch target or the 6 and 7/8ths hunter model, I went with the Hunter. Even tho it was more money then the target, it came with the hiviz front sight, adjustable rear and a stainless fluted barrel. Which I was planning on adding a paclite barrel to the cheaper one in the future. I also have read that the Hunter's come with a better trigger. If you were to add that in to the price of the cheaper target model,the cost would be around $300 over the price of the gun. The difference in price between the Mark III Target and Mark III Hunters wasnt even 150, so it was money well spent. Which ever Ruger you pick out tho, should be a blast to shoot. I've had mine just over a week and I'll have 1500 rounds thru it by the end of the weekend. :mrgreen:


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## Rich447

marcodo said:


> AAARRRRGGGGHHH!!!
> and I somehow locked up the gun now so that I can't disasemble it! OOOUUUCCCHHH!


Sorry, this is my first post here.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mrgreen:

I did the EXACT same thing. My Mark III 22/45 is at the smith as I type this. I am hoping to get it back today.

I had no problem in the past tearing it down and putting it back together, but around the 5th time I messed up and locked up the entire thing.

Did you also smash your fingers and thumb, and bleed all over the place? :smt083


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## Retired in 2001

http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm

For the fellas having trouble with their Mark III...
Bulleye has a great site for those in need.


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## Shipwreck

Someone dragged this old thread up... I posted in another thread a couple of months back - I went with the Buckmark....


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## aggiedave05

Good call on the buckmark. I spent a few hours trying to get it apart and it's just too tight. It's sitting on the corner of my desk in 4 pieces. If you could return a gun I would.


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## Shipwreck

Wow, sorry to hear that...


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## aggiedave05

In all seriousness...I am a novice when it comes to guns but I am so pissed about this Ruger I'd like to just put it in a box and never open it again.

What are you supposed to do when you can't get a gun apart? I just can't imagine who put this together with super human strength to make it so tight you can't get anything apart. The more I read online the more I keep seeing descriptions of 30 minutes to strip down a gun even after they've done it a number of times. That's insane, this is just a .22 plinking pistol, not some antique from a museum.

Anyone want to buy a Mark III w/ 5.5" bull barrel in 3 pieces (bolt, spring housing, and barrel/receiver). I paid 300 but if you come by you may find it in my trash for free.

I've bought a handful of guns, but no other problems like this. It's not like my autoloader shotgun isn't cycling appropriately and I bring it into a gunsmith. What am I supposed to tell the guy "oh yeah see I bought this gun and can't get it apart"


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## Shipwreck

I've seen on other forums people say U need a rubber mallet to get the thing apart - seriously.

Supposedly U knock the upper off of the grip section.


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## Rich447

What he likely did was swing the mainspring back incorrectly, and the hammer strut is not in the right place and jammed. So now it is basically impossible to take back apart. 

I had to pay a smith to tear mine down again. 

So upon assembly one has to be careful that the hammer strug falls in place correctly when closing the mainspring bolt, and make sure that strut is hanging perfectly center which requires the gun basically be standing on end. 

You will notice a little indentation on the mainspring latch, and if the strut does not go in there you are screwed (as I also found out). 

A good indicator that you are doing it correctly is that when trying to close the mainspring latch you can almost get it entirely in effortlessly until the final locking stage. If you cannot get that far without any difficulty something is wrong, and you have to start over. :smt076


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## greener

The best set of instructions for field stripping a MKIII or MKII is on Bullseye's site
http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm

If the pistol "locks up" after reassembly it probably means that it was assembled with the hammer in the cocked position. Insert mag (MKIII); point muzzle down; pull trigger and tap barrel on a board while holding trigger back. This should release the sear.

The first time I field stripped my first Ruger (MKIII Hunter) I had visions of a box of parts going to a gunsmith. The technical language was so bad, the dog left the room. I reread the instructions and repeated the field strip/reassembly a couple of times. Since then I've had both my MKIII's fully apart several times. Each has a target sear and trigger upgrade and one also has a target hammer (volquartzen). I'm the original ten-thumbed klutz. If I can do it, just about anyone can.


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## greener

Rich447 said:


> What he likely did was swing the mainspring back incorrectly, and the hammer strut is not in the right place and jammed. So now it is basically impossible to take back apart.
> 
> I had to pay a smith to tear mine down again.
> 
> So upon assembly one has to be careful that the hammer strug falls in place correctly when closing the mainspring bolt, and make sure that strut is hanging perfectly center which requires the gun basically be standing on end.
> 
> You will notice a little indentation on the mainspring latch, and if the strut does not go in there you are screwed (as I also found out).
> 
> A good indicator that you are doing it correctly is that when trying to close the mainspring latch you can almost get it entirely in effortlessly until the final locking stage. If you cannot get that far without any difficulty something is wrong, and you have to start over. :smt076


You avoid this by making sure the hammer is fully forward. I push it with whatever is handy. Insert the mainspring, close it about 3/4 way, point the muzzle vertical and close the main spring. You should feel a slight springiness as you close the mainspring into the grip, then close the lock. If it is hard or you feel no spring, stop, the hammer strut is not in the groove.


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