# Casting bullets.



## fusil (Sep 23, 2008)

Hi again!!!
I’ve been given 100kg (220lb’s ) of scrap lead by an old bloke who used to make fishing sinkers. It’s a mix of wheel weights, roof flashing and some old pipes. So I’m looking at making my own. 
I’ve read the section in The ABC’s of Reloading on casting. 
Is it as easy as it seams? Any dos and don’ts? 

As usual I’m thankful for any advice.:smt1099
fusil


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## Wandering Man (Jul 9, 2006)

The biggest problem in casting your own bullets is that it is fun! When you've cast your lead, you'll find an urgent need to go out and gather more lead.

I live in a house built in the early 1920's, and have resorted to pulling out some of the old pipe just because it is lead. 

A great site for advice is here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php

The neat thing about casting ubllets is that when you screw up, you just pour them back into the pot and remelt.

I started with Lyman's Master casting kit:


> *Lyman's "Master Casting Kit'' *
> The Best Way to Get Started in Bullet Casting. ​Lyman's economical Mini-Mag makes it possible for any reloader to start casting his own bullets. With an 10 pound capacity, the electric Mini-Mag can melt enough alloy to turn out plenty of top quality bullets quickly. Bringing a full load to casting temperature takes only about 30 minutes.
> The kit's low price also includes Lyman's popular improved 4500 Bullet Sizer/Lubricator. Simply add the right top punch and sizing die and the 4500 will smoothly size down your bullet to the correct diameter while it evenly applies the provided Super Moly lubricant.
> In addition to the Mini-Mag and the 4500 Sizer/Lubricator, the kit features a long handled casting dipper, a handy ingot mould and the widely acclaimed "Bible of bullet casting"; Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. All this for less than the price of most casting furnaces.
> Master Casting Kit (8 lbs., 4 oz.) Item #2712000 ​


http://www.lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/index.htm​
It really is not that difficult, but you gotta be carefull and protect yourself. Keep water well away from the area. Stay in a well-ventilated area.​
I use a three-step process:​
Melting the lead into ingots first.​
Then casting the bullets.​
Finally, doing the lubricating/sizing just before I'm ready to load ammo.​
Keep us posted on your progress.​
Good luck!​
WM​


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## Wandering Man (Jul 9, 2006)

Here's another link that you'll likely enjoy:

http://ezine.m1911.org/casting_frame.htm

Photos and step-by-step procedure.

It helped me get started, and I still refer back to it when I've been away from the smelting pot for a while.

WM


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## Steve M1911A1 (Feb 6, 2008)

You can buy, in the US anyway, a simple hardness tester for use with bullet-lead mixes. "Naked" lead pistol bullets should be pretty hard, while those using little bronze cups on their bases ("gas checks," if you can get them) can be softer.
You mix a batch of metal, make ingots, test the ingots for hardness, and then re-melt, either to use or to re-alloy to a better hardness.
Wheel weights are made of an alloy of lead and antimony, probably also containing a little tin. They provide a pretty good pistol-bullet mix as-is (once you've melted them off of their steel clips, of course).
Do not ever use lead from an old automobile battery (_pìle_). The acid it retains will eat your clothing and your skin, and may make the hot mix explode.
Pipe lead is pretty pure, so it requires the addition of antimony and tin. Plumbing and electronics solders are already alloyed, but are bad mixes for bullets; so they need to be re-alloyed to the proper hardness.

I used a simple iron pot on a natural-gas-fed kitchen stove, to do all of my melting. I've never tried this on an electric stove.
The Lyman lead dipper is the best molten-lead pouring device I've ever used, and I recommend it to you.
I've never used a lubricator/sizer machine, but I'm sure that it's much more convenient than the hand-dip method I used, along with a sizer tube and pusher-rod.


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## DJ Niner (Oct 3, 2006)

I consider casting bullets an evil chore that I will gladly pay others to do for me. :mrgreen:

I have helped a few friends cast bullets, though, and all I can add to the above is: make SURE any area where lead is being melted is VERY well-ventilated (lead fumes are highly poisonous), wear safety glasses/goggles at all times, and be careful about water finding it's way into the molten lead. For example, one of my bullet-casting friends got some wheelweights from a tire shop, and because they were dirty, he washed them off. The little clips that hold the wheelweights in place are steel, and sometimes they have small holes in them. His procedure was to drop the weights straight into the lead pot, then skim the steel clips off the top of the lead later. If any water was trapped in the wheelweight clip holes, it would often cause a small steam explosion (signified by a sharp "POP!", and molten lead droplets flying around the garage). 

Good luck!


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## fusil (Sep 23, 2008)

Wandering Man said:


> Here's another link that you'll likely enjoy:
> 
> http://ezine.m1911.org/casting_frame.htm
> 
> ...


Many thanks Wandering Man, this is a VERY good link.:smt023
fusil


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