# Hellcat and Hyve Monarch Trigger Install Troubles



## Srjs28 (11 mo ago)

Hello all, new forum member here. I left a short introduction in the new members area. I’m having some trouble with the installation of Hyve’s Monarch trigger on my Hellcat, hoping someone could help or give me some insight. I did contact Hyve via phone call (voicemail left with no reply yet) and email(s), in which I received only 1 reply with no answers to my questions. So here is what I have going on;
(FYI - I’ve installed multiple trigger assemblies in the past on other platforms, have done most of my own gunsmithing and have built a few AR’s from bottom up. Just to advise I’m not a newbie around firearms, I’ve got some knowledge)
After the initial install, leaving the preset trigger travel and return settings as they were from Hyve, the trigger was extremely hard to pull but I did manage to operate it one time but I thought, there is no way this is correct. It took too much effort to operate it and it did not fully reset after racking the slide. So I disassembled everything again looking for anything I may have done wrong or installed the improper way but I found nothing. So I reassembled everything however this time the safety trigger was already in the depressed position and the trigger was completely jammed, no travel at all in either direction. Again I disassembled everything, this time I had to remove the backing plate in order to get the slide off because trigger was jammed and would not function. I inspected all parts, again found nothing out of order. So I started doing some research, watching videos and made my first phone call contact to Hyve, left a message. I put everything back together, the only thing I did different this time was pull the trigger bar forward, locking it in place against the detach in sear housing block. I got the same results, a jammed trigger with no play either way while the safety trigger out of its static position. I disassembled and re-assembled everything multiple times, meanwhile sending emails to Hyve (not getting any replies besides one asking if I racked the slide). This is where I currently sit, no matter what I do or how many times I take apart and put back together, I end up with the same results, a jammed trigger. I’m sure it’s probably something really simple I’m not doing but I apparently need to know what that “simple” thing is. I need some help guys.
Thanks in advance - Joe


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## Srjs28 (11 mo ago)

I can post pictures or short videos if needed, it may help someone understand a little more of what troubles I’m having. Or somebody might be able to recognize a mistake. Thanks again


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## Srjs28 (11 mo ago)

Oh, and I did try doing small adjustments at a time to the trigger pre-travel and reset setting screws, keeping written track of each adjustment, didn’t seem to make a difference


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## desertman (Aug 29, 2013)

I'll just state the obvious. At this point you should put the stock trigger back in the gun. If it works like it's supposed to then there's probably something wrong with the Hyve trigger. If you're still having the same problem with the stock trigger then you must have done something wrong. Since you've already taken the gun apart and found nothing out of order my guess is that there's something wrong with the Hyve trigger. Maybe it's out of spec and binding on the trigger pin, trigger bar or inside the frame itself? At which point you can either send it back or find out where it's binding and polish out where it's binding until it moves freely. 

I don't own a Hellcat or a Hyve trigger and have never taken either one apart. But I do own a several Springfields and have taken them completely apart and swapped out parts on them without any issues. Same with a lot of other guns. At least the Springfields that I own are not that complicated and there's not a lot of moving parts as compared to some other guns. Out of curiosity I looked up the schematic on the Hellcat and from what I could tell it's not that much different mechanically than my XDS except it's a double stack 9mm and there's no grip safety. At any rate without physically examining the gun and trigger myself it's hard for me to tell what went wrong. 

You're probably gonna' have to keep tinkering with it until you can get it to work properly with the Hyve trigger that is if you decide to keep that trigger and not send it back. Or you may want to see if you can get your money back and try a different trigger. Apex makes them for the Hellcat. Hellcat - Springfield® I installed one on my Glock G26 it's a great trigger.


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## Srjs28 (11 mo ago)

That’s a good idea about putting the factory trigger back in. I am going to try that. To clear up some of your questions/wonders, the trigger moves freely as it should when out of the frame, there’s nothing wrong with the pivot point of trigger at the bar and the spring loaded action of the safety trigger works as it should when out of the gun. I don’t see any spot that looks like it’s binding but the trigger bar will not move back and forth while the frame parts are installed with the slide off. I could easily move the trigger bar in each direction when I was inspecting the sear mechanism, housing block and detach but as soon as everything is put into the frame, no movement. The mag blocking lever seems to almost contact the top portion of the trigger (right where the trigger bar end inserts the trigger body to insert roll pin). 
I don’t know, it’s aggravating. But I’m definitely going to swap to factory trigger right now


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## Srjs28 (11 mo ago)

Now I did have something come to mind. The only time I ever got the trigger to actually function was the very first time when it was extremely hard to pull and it didn’t fully reset, even after racking slide. I was wondering if somehow, ever so slightly, put some kind of force on the trigger bar putting it out of spec. But looking at the trigger bar material, I think that in order to “bend” it, it would need a whole lot more force than just a “hard to pull” trigger. I have nothing to compare it to anyway. I mean, it looks straight.


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## Srjs28 (11 mo ago)

***Update — So I’ve narrowed it down to the trigger pin. Once all the holes are aligned and the pin is started, the safety trigger starts to depress on its own, continuing to insert pin begins to remove any play in the trigger assembly and when fully inserted, the trigger is jammed. I remove the pin and trigger functions normally. So I found a punch that is slightly smaller in diameter than the trigger pin and the trigger is freed up and works as it should. So the trigger assembly from Hyve is out of spec or at least the hole for the pin is. Going back to factory and trying to once again contact Hyve for refund or replacement.


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## desertman (Aug 29, 2013)

Srjs28 said:


> ***Update — So I’ve narrowed it down to the trigger pin. Once all the holes are aligned and the pin is started, the safety trigger starts to depress on its own, continuing to insert pin begins to remove any play in the trigger assembly and when fully inserted, the trigger is jammed. I remove the pin and trigger functions normally. So I found a punch that is slightly smaller in diameter than the trigger pin and the trigger is freed up and works as it should. So the trigger assembly from Hyve is out of spec or at least the hole for the pin is. Going back to factory and trying to once again contact Hyve for refund or replacement.


Don't cha just love working on guns? I hear you brother, when something just doesn't go right it's a frustrating pain in the ass. Especially when you're dealing with tiny little parts that interact with each other to perform any given function. Everything looks so simple but if one little thing is out of spec it will jam up the whole works. Then you've gotta' wrack your brains out trying to figure out what the f*** is wrong? Especially when you think that you've done everything possible to resolve the problem, but still come up empty. I've been there and done that God only knows how many times. Most of the time it's just a process of elimination. I've worked on both cars and guns for my entire life, it's all part of the territory. But the most rewarding part is being able to stick with it and solve the problem yourself. You can then pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

There are so many aftermarket manufacturers out there that it would be nearly impossible for all of them to maintain the exact same tolerances for any given part. That's why they all suggest that they be installed by a competent gunsmith. Not too mention civil liability if one of their products is installed wrong and someone was either killed or injured because of that. But if you're mechanically inclined and have the interest there really isn't any reason why you can't do most of the work and solve the problems yourself. 

I don't know, I'd look to get a refund if I were you and try another brand of trigger. I bought some aftermarket slide releases for my Glocks. When I took the guns out to test fire them the slide would lock up consistently after three rounds. Due to the recoil it just so happened that the slide releases were gradually moving up to the point where the slide would eventually lock open. Once I manually pushed the release down I could fire off another three rounds before it would lock open again. The problem was that there was too much friction between the slide release the magazine and the inside of the frame. I also at one time bought extended slide releases for my Glocks, and the slide would consistently lock open after the first round. I'm like what the f*** is going on here? I then figured out that my thumb was hitting the extended release under recoil which caused the slide to lock open.


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## Srjs28 (11 mo ago)

desertman said:


> Don't cha just love working on guns? I hear you brother, when something just doesn't go right it's a frustrating pain in the ass. Especially when you're dealing with tiny little parts that interact with each other to perform any given function. Everything looks so simple but if one little thing is out of spec it will jam up the whole works. Then you've gotta' wrack your brains out trying to figure out what the f*** is wrong? Especially when you think that you've done everything possible to resolve the problem, but still come up empty. I've been there and done that God only knows how many times. Most of the time it's just a process of elimination. I've worked on both cars and guns for my entire life, it's all part of the territory. But the most rewarding part is being able to stick with it and solve the problem yourself. You can then pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
> 
> There are so many aftermarket manufacturers out there that it would be nearly impossible for all of them to maintain the exact same tolerances for any given part. That's why they all suggest that they be installed by a competent gunsmith. Not too mention civil liability if one of their products is installed wrong and someone was either killed or injured because of that. But if you're mechanically inclined and have the interest there really isn't any reason why you can't do most of the work and solve the problems yourself.
> 
> I don't know, I'd look to get a refund if I were you and try another brand of trigger. I bought some aftermarket slide releases for my Glocks. When I took the guns out to test fire them the slide would lock up consistently after three rounds. Due to the recoil it just so happened that the slide releases were gradually moving up to the point where the slide would eventually lock open. Once I manually pushed the release down I could fire off another three rounds before it would lock open again. The problem was that there was too much friction between the slide release the magazine and the inside of the frame. I also at one time bought extended slide releases for my Glocks, and the slide would consistently lock open after the first round. I'm like what the f*** is going on here? I then figured out that my thumb was hitting the extended release under recoil which caused the slide to lock open.


Yes, you are absolutely correct by saying the slightest thing, which is usually something ridiculous, can piss off and throw off the entire project. Racking slides and racking brains. 
I too am the one who, 99% of the times, does my own work since as far back as I can remember. From tearing apart RC vehicles and building forts to replacing or rebuilding vehicle engines to adding additions/remodeling my homes. I’ve always considered myself to be mechanically inclined and often don’t ever need much direction. But when I do need help, it’s absolutely, blood boiling, frustrating for me. 
So today I received the replacement trigger from Hyve. Their customer service is great and there was no hesitation on their end in giving me the option to have replacement sent out or refunding me. They did however have a little trouble in believing their trigger pin hole in the assembly was out of spec, backing it up with the statement that every trigger is tested and installed before being sent to customer. I tried to explain that once the trigger pin is installed at least 50% of the way, is when everything starts to “jam” up and pin begins to become really tough to fully seat. I also included that when re-installing factory trigger, everything works as it should. Anyway, I obviously opted for replacement. 
I got the new trigger assembly installed and the installation was smooth, trigger depresses and resets as it should, BUT (big but) the static position of the trigger seems to be, well actually is, too far forward. There is zero room for error between the trigger guard and the safety trigger when trying to insert trigger finger. I removed, adjusted set screws 1/2 turn and re-installed Hyve trigger a couple of times with no positive results. I stopped there and started doing some googling and watching videos on others installing this trigger in the Hellcat. However, there’s not much out there on this topic. So I ended up back here. Going to google a little more and then try again.


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## Srjs28 (11 mo ago)

Here is a pic of trigger at static position. See how far forward and up position of safety trigger.


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## desertman (Aug 29, 2013)

Srjs28 said:


> Here is a pic of trigger at static position. See how far forward and up position of safety trigger.
> View attachment 20594
> View attachment 20594


That just doesn't look right. At this point you should just get your money back. It looks like they use the same trigger shoe for a Glock? You might want to try an Apex trigger. From what I can tell the geometry looks different? I installed them on my Glock G26 and FN 509. Action Enhancement Trigger for Hellcat


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