# Had my 92X Centurion cerakote, now have issues



## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

I got the Beretta back from getting cerakote and it looks awesome…however now the takedown lever is so hard I have to use a nylon pushrod to get it down and when I got it home, I realized the hammer would not stay back leaving it in a constant state of DA. I’m not exactly happy getting back a gun that looks better, but functions like crap. It functioned flawless before and was one of my favs. He is supposed to fix the hammer and says it’s “simple”. We’ll see. As for the takedown lever, he claims the tolerances are so tight in Berettas, they just come out that way after cerakote, but will work it’s way into being easier the more I use it. Thoughts? So far, I’m pretty pissed. Thoughts, ideas??


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## Willard (8 mo ago)

I hate to say it, but while Cerakote can improve a firearms looks, it like any coating adds dimensional size to parts creating fit issues. In most cases, if only relegated to non-fitting surfaces you may not run into problems. Coating internal parts will normally result in issues. The Beretta, and its open top Slide, creates issues with the Barrel and Locking Block being able to function freely in many cases.


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

Willard said:


> I hate to say it, but while Cerakote can improve a firearms looks, it like any coating adds dimensional size to parts creating fit issues. In most cases, if only relegated to non-fitting surfaces you may not run into problems. Coating internal parts will normally result in issues. The Beretta, and its open top Slide, creates issues with the Barrel and Locking Block being able to function freely in many cases.


I’m starting to wish I would have just kept the shitty scuffed finish and the flawless action rather than the new finish and the shitty action. I hope I didn’t ruin my gun!


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## Willard (8 mo ago)

Steel parts can be re-blued, or phosphate coated which changes the surface of the parent metal so doesn't change dimensions. Aluminum parts, such as the frames, are hard anodized with a thin protective finish to help prevent wear, as aluminum itself is normally soft. Depending on the application of your Cerakote, in many cases, it can only be removed by abrasives. Sometimes plastic media can be used to remove painted finishes without harm to the base metal. Whether it would be effective with Cerakote, I'm not sure, but if push comes to shove, it could be an avenue for you to search for a solution.


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

I'd give it time. Does the pistol cycle live rounds? Perhaps give it a breaking in period. The hammer not staying back is odd.


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## Willard (8 mo ago)

denner said:


> I'd give it time. Does the pistol cycle live rounds? Perhaps give it a breaking in period. The hammer not staying back is odd.


I would have to disagree... if the Hammer does not stay "cocked", when released, it could discharge the chambered round. That's why performing a function check, on any firearm, after work is performed, is necessary to prevent an accidental discharge, prior to the introduction of "Live Rounds".


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

Willard said:


> I would have to disagree... if the Hammer does not stay "cocked", when released, it could discharge the chambered round. That's why performing a function check, on any firearm, after work is performed, is necessary to prevent an accidental discharge, prior to the introduction of "Live Rounds".


Agree, that issue needs to be addressed first. Perhaps the cerakote is preventing the hammer from full rearward movement? I would assume the pistol still has its halfcock and unless the pistol has its trigger fully depressed while the hammer is to the rear the safety block should prevent the pistol from firing unless it's really boogered up.


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## Willard (8 mo ago)

denner said:


> Agree, that issue need to be addressed first. Perhaps the cerakote is preventing the hammer from full rearward movement?


It's hard to say, by the same token, if it's coated on the sear engagement surface of the Hammer, then there would be no "ledge" for the Sear to "catch" and hold the Hammer, cocked. Although, it's possible it was assembled improperly too.


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## gwpercle (Jun 8, 2018)

Whenever you have a gun that functions flawlessly ... DO NOT fix it , refinish it , lend it to a friend or Sell It !

In a gunfight the other guy doesn't care how pretty your gun is ... you want a gun that works Flawlessly !

Only hits count and Flawless Operation beats looks good ...seven ways to Sunday !

I hope you get it fixed and I hope you can trust it because a Flawless Operating Gun is the best kind to have . I had a similar experience and have learned if it's working right and shooting tight ...leave it alone !

Gary


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## Arizona Desertman (10 mo ago)

I had these two guns cerakoted. When I got them back I had to remove the cerakote from all of the bearing/mating surfaces, holes in the frame and the slide rails on the 1911's frame and slide. I also removed the grip frame bushings then ran a tap through the holes in the frame to remove the cerakote from the threads.

On the S&W 642 I removed the cerakote on the side plate along with its mating surface inside the frame. For obvious reasons you can't cerakote the frame with the side plate on. Before I had the 642 done I removed the barrel and had to remove the cerakote where the barrel meets the frame so it wouldn't crack when I screwed it back on. I also removed the cerakote on the crane where it fits into the cylinder and frame. On the 642 they plugged the screw holes in the frame before cerakoting it.

I used 400 to 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper wrapped around a small flat machinist's ruler to remove the cerakote from the frame and slide rails on the 1911. Along with a small piece of wet or dry wrapped around a proper sized punch to remove the cerakote from the holes in the frame. I was made fully aware of this before I sent the bare frames and bare slide out. Of course I could have paid them extra for the time it takes for them to do this work. They probably should have explained this to you before doing the job?


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## Arizona Desertman (10 mo ago)

gwpercle said:


> Whenever you have a gun that functions flawlessly ... DO NOT fix it , refinish it , lend it to a friend or Sell It !
> 
> In a gunfight the other guy doesn't care how pretty your gun is ... you want a gun that works Flawlessly !
> 
> ...


There's nothing wrong with refinishing a gun. Providing that it's done properly. The problem with cerakote is the thickness of the finish and the fact that the cerakote has to be removed from all of the bearing/mating surfaces on the gun. Some parts can be easily masked off others it's more practical to remove the cerkote after it's been applied. A lot of times it's only a matter of removing it where there's a slight overspray. Cerakote if done properly is an extremely durable finish.

Myself I like to take care of my things. I want my guns to both look good and function flawlessly. I paid good money for them and don't want them to look like something that was banged around in a tool or tackle box. What I've found is if a lot of people don't care what the outside looks like (the part that you can see) chances are they don't really care about what the inside looks like (the part where you can't see).


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## berettatoter (Sep 1, 2011)

Cadkins said:


> I’m starting to wish I would have just kept the shitty scuffed finish and the flawless action rather than the new finish and the shitty action. I hope I didn’t ruin my gun!


I bet the more you shoot/field strip it for cleaning, the better it will smooth itself out.


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

Let us know how it turns out.


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## Willard (8 mo ago)

denner said:


> If the internals are cerakoted, including the sear that would be an issue. They don't cerakote the sear do they?


I would hope not... but then is the refinisher a licensed gunsmith..., or just a good painter? That information was not furnished... by the OP.


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## Arizona Desertman (10 mo ago)

The only thing that I sent in was the bare frames and slide no internal parts whatsoever.


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Willard said:


> I would hope not... but then is the refinisher a licensed gunsmith..., or just a good painter? That information was not furnished... by the OP.


Internals on the Beretta should not be cerakoted.


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

denner said:


> I'd give it time. Does the pistol cycle live rounds? Perhaps give it a breaking in period. The hammer not staying back is odd.


Not sure I haven’t shot it yet. I’m taking it back to him tomorrow so he can fix the hammer…I hope!


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

Willard said:


> I would hope not... but then is the refinisher a licensed gunsmith..., or just a good painter? That information was not furnished... by the OP.


To my knowledge he is not a gunsmith…just does cerakote.


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## Willard (8 mo ago)

Cadkins said:


> To my knowledge he is not a gunsmith…just does cerakote.


I would assume he has a FFL, if he's doing this for any compensation. It's a slippery slope, that can be treacherous, and in this case, bordering on a liability issue.


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

Willard said:


> I would assume he has a FFL, if he's doing this for any compensation. It's a slippery slope, that can be treacherous, and in this case, bordering on a liability issue.


I don’t know that either. He is a friend of a friend who works in the same field as me, has a small business and came recommended. I would assume he has the normal stuff like an LLC, insurance and stuff…but I really didn’t look into him beyond reviews, and word of mouth.


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## Soarin1 (Jun 6, 2020)

gwpercle said:


> I hope you get it fixed and I hope you can trust it because a Flawless Operating Gun is the best kind to have . I had a similar experience and have learned if it's working right and shooting tight ...leave it alone !
> 
> Gary


I agree with the old adage: if it ain't broke don't fix it. However, a Beretta 92 I had, I upgraded with a Bar-Sto stainless 4.25" barrel. What a bear to fit: using a flat file I used a lot of elbow grease on the breech face until it ran perfectly. Before that it was just too tight & wouldn't lock up. Later I sold it anyway. ( facepalm).

However, I'm thinking I will post up & sell my 92X Centurion. After pinching my palm after press checking it, I'm less than thrilled with an older design.After a week I still have a healing blood blister. If interested, I will give someone here a first crack at it. It has some interesting addons like a Hogue grey/black G10 grip, and a de-cocker to boot...


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


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## Willard (8 mo ago)

Soarin1 said:


> I agree with the old adage: if it ain't broke don't fix it. However, a Beretta 92 I had, I upgraded with a Bar-Sto stainless 4.25" barrel. What a bear to fit: using a flat file I used a lot of elbow grease on the breech face until it ran perfectly. Before that it was just too tight & wouldn't lock up. Later I sold it anyway. ( facepalm).
> 
> However, I'm thinking I will post up & sell my 92X Centurion. After pinching my palm after press checking it, I'm less than thrilled with an older design.After a week I still have a healing blood blister. If interested, I will give someone here a first crack at it. It has some interesting addons like a Hogue grey/black G10 grip, and a de-cocker to boot...
> 
> ...


While I have never tried to fit a Beretta Barrel, I have 1911s, and a few Sig Sauer Classic models over the years. I did use "lug files" for the 1911s, but have used stones on Sigs.

Bar Sto Barrels, even the "Pre-Fit/Drop-in" versions need fitting, even though they are fully finish chambered. Even Sig factory Barrels may need a few passes with a stone for a proper fit into the Slide. I've found it's not so much the tightness of the fit that creates accuracy, but the consistency in lock-up and quality of the Barrel, regardless of brand!


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Soarin1 said:


> After pinching my palm after press checking it, I'm less than thrilled with an older design.After a week I still have a healing blood blister. I


I did that once 20 years ago with a 1911. It does hurt like hell!

That can happen with many different guns. I've owned 41 Beretta 92 variants over 30 years. NEVER had that happen to me with a Beretta 92. Just a fluke, I think.


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

just heard back from the cerakote guy about my beretta. Took it back to him today and he said he accidentally put the sear spring in backwards. Said it was fixed. Might try to sneak over to the range tomorrow and make sure it functions properly.


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

heres a pic of it


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

this was the condition of the other side and the reason I wanted it cerakoted. Also replaced the black grips with wood


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Did he cerakote your locking block, hammer strut and sear?


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## denner (Jun 3, 2011)

Cadkins said:


> View attachment 20941
> 
> heres a pic of it


Looks great.


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

So he fixed it today. Said he put the sear pin in backwards and also made the takedown leaver back to normal operation. (Takedown was so stiff after cerakote I had to use a nylon rod to push it down). Brought it home to fire without lubing and had multiple failure to feeds. I’m hoping the lube will take care of it as I always lube all my guns. Cerakote guy told me I didn’t have to lube because it was ceramic on ceramic. Shoulda known he was full of shit, but lesson learned.


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Cadkins said:


> So he fixed it today. Said he put the sear pin in backwards and also made the takedown leaver back to normal operation. (Takedown was so stiff after cerakote I had to use a nylon rod to push it down). Brought it home to fire without lubing and had multiple failure to feeds. I’m hoping the lube will take care of it as I always lube all my guns. Cerakote guy told me I didn’t have to lube because it was ceramic on ceramic. Shoulda known he was full of shit, but lesson learned.


Berettas need to be run wet. Try again with lube. Lube the frame rails, the slide rails, and where the locking block rides inside the slide. Also lube the moving pin by the locking block.


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

Shipwreck said:


> Berettas need to be run wet. Try again with lube. Lube the frame rails, the slide rails, and where the locking block rides inside the slide. Also lube the moving pin by the locking block.


Will do. Lubed the shit out of it. It def rack better and I think that will take care of it. Thank you!


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## Shipwreck (Jan 26, 2006)

Cadkins said:


> Will do. Lubed the shit out of it. It def rack better and I think that will take care of it. Thank you!


No problem. I have owned a ton of Beretta 92s over the years. So, I am very familiar with them. Great platform!


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## Mole72 (9 mo ago)

Cadkins said:


> I got the Beretta back from getting cerakote and it looks awesome…however now the takedown lever is so hard I have to use a nylon pushrod to get it down and when I got it home, I realized the hammer would not stay back leaving it in a constant state of DA. I’m not exactly happy getting back a gun that looks better, but functions like crap. It functioned flawless before and was one of my favs. He is supposed to fix the hammer and says it’s “simple”. We’ll see. As for the takedown lever, he claims the tolerances are so tight in Berettas, they just come out that way after cerakote, but will work it’s way into being easier the more I use it. Thoughts? So far, I’m pretty pissed. Thoughts, ideas??


I changed the guide rod in a Beretta m9 at the takedown lever became super hard to move. The rod turned out to be less than 1 mm longer than stock. The cerakote could have added some length to the rod


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## Arizona Desertman (10 mo ago)

My guess is that some of the cerakote overspray got into the hole in the frame. Which can easily be removed using a piece of 400 grit wet or dry rolled around a punch or nail, placing it in the hole then turning it around inside the hole several times until the cerakote is removed. Of course the frame would have to be completely disassembled and thoroughly cleaned when done. I doubt that any of the internal parts were cerakoted because of the time and effort to prepare those parts. Unless of course the customer requested it. In which case all of the cerakote on the bearing surfaces on those tiny little parts would have to be carefully removed and it would take a considerable amount of time doing so.


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## Soarin1 (Jun 6, 2020)

Shipwreck said:


> I did that once 20 years ago with a 1911. It does hurt like hell!
> 
> That can happen with many different guns. I've owned 41 Beretta 92 variants over 30 years. NEVER had that happen to me with a Beretta 92. Just a fluke, I think.


My own damn fault. Only fingers please, keep the palm high. On a great condition PX4 Compact I just obtained on a trade plus $50, I got the other side of same palm up against the FS style safety I just installed ouch  so I guess I'm not so bright lately. This had "stealth" levers on it and they were nearly impossible to activate. In the parts box now.


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


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## Cadkins (8 mo ago)

Took the newly cerakoted 92X Centurion out to the range for the first time yesterday functioned flawlessly. Took some effort to get there, but now I’m DEF happy with getting it cerakoted…now that it functioned as it did prior to the cerakote.


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## Arizona Desertman (10 mo ago)

Cadkins said:


> Took the newly cerakoted 92X Centurion out to the range for the first time yesterday functioned flawlessly. Took some effort to get there, but now I’m DEF happy with getting it cerakoted…now that it functioned as it did prior to the cerakote.


Awesome, not only that but it looks great!!!


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