# Reloading Handgun ammo questions: 9mm/357SIG/40S&W/10mm/45ACP, and +P?



## literaltrance

Hello all,

So I've finally decided, sooner or later, reloading is going to become part of my overall enthusiasm for handgun shooting. Cost and accuracy are obvious reasons to do so. Now I just need to make the space in my leased abode to do so.

I've taken the first real step by purchasing Lyman's 48th Edition Reloading Handbook, but keep in mind I know next to nothing about reloading aside from what I've read recently. In reading, I've run into several questions:

-about this book: This manual I've purchased seems to be satisfactory for getting me started and providing me with a large number of suggested reloading charts, but I noticed there is a LOT of self-promotion for Lyman products. Nothing against Lyman, but am I running the risk of being shielded from other manufacturers' quality instructions and supplies?

-for handgun calibers in general: Are there popular default powders which can be used for all calibers mentioned above? "Power Pistol" is the only one I see in my manual which is listed for the various calibers I use, but in some cases this powder seems to perform under par. What's the deal?

-carbide dies vs. cast dies: aside from eliminating the necessity of lubing cases, what are the pros and cons of carbide dies? (surely there is something)

-suggested loads vs. "+P" rounds: Each chart I am provided shows a minimum and maximum load for powder/bulletweight pair, for instance:

for 9mm 125g JHP:
------------------min.-----------------------------max.
Powders-----------grains------FPS-------PSI--------grains------FPS-------PSI
Power Pistol------5.1---------979-------23100------5.7---------1107------31300
Blue Dot----------6.3---------1049------27400------7.1---------1163------32400
Universal---------4.0---------880-------17400------4.5---------1042------29300

Would the max grain loads be considered +P? If not, where can I get +P reload information?

Lots of crap I want to know. :smt120 Any info would be appreciated. Thank you.


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## Redwolf

since I see your new to reloading I would start with www.google.com and stay away from +P loads for a while. suggested loads are what is considered safe, +P loads are not safe for all firearms. start slow, start safe, start low meaning on the lower side of the chart and work your way up from there, finding a good mixture of Cost and accuracy.

http://www.hodgdon.com/
http://www.reloadammo.com/
http://www.accuratepowder.com/reloading.htm
http://www.lapua.com/index.php?id=850
http://www.vihtavuori-lapua.com/disclaimer.php
http://www.imrpowder.com/
http://www.nosler.com/
http://www.speer-bullets.com/
http://www.remington.com/products/ammunition/
http://www.hornady.com/


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## Steve M1911A1

The previous reply will help you find out about powder. However, you asked a couple of other questions.

Don't try to start with "+P" loads. Don't try to start with the maximum loads shown in the handbooks. Start with the minimum loads shown, and work toward maximum while observing accuracy. Maximum and "+P" loads are hard on guns, and on you as well.
A carbide resizing die is worth the extra money. (That's the _only_ carbide die. The rest of the dies in the "carbide" set are conventional.) The carbide resizing die saves you from dealing with lubricants (although your cases have to be very well _cleaned_ before you resize them). For pistol cases, the "carbide" part is a narrow ring at the mouth of the case.
Lyman makes good stuff. The Lyman manual is a good place to start because they don't make powder or primers, so they'll recommend the best available rather than the house brand. Lyman reloading tools are on the basic side, however, since they don't make a _progressive_ press (well, they didn't last time I looked, anyway). But Lyman makes a very good case-mouth expanding die (if you're not using a progressive press, that is).
When you're starting out, _follow all instructions to the letter_. Don't experiment until you have some experience.
Good luck!


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## literaltrance

Thank you both for your responses.

I do not plan on loading any +P, at least not until I've done a few thousand rounds. My question about +P is, what qualifies +P?

Think of it this way.... How do I identify +P loadings so I know what to avoid? Because for all I know, +P is the "max load" end of the chart.....


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## mustnggt619

I also reload but the only pistol i reload for is a ruger super blackhawk for hunting. Other than that all my reloading is rifles but still the same process. Reloading is really easy once you get the hang of it but remember to pay very close attention to what your doing and take your time, dont rush. Figure out a good step by step the you like and stick with it. Always tumble and clean the cases before you ever start into the reloading process. Once there clean and you have the die set i lube, size and remove the fired primer. after i do all my cases in that caliber then i check length and inspect all the casings for problems. I recomend only reloading for one specific load at a time to keep from getting confused and making a mistake. Next is to reprime the brass and i use a handheld priming tool from rcbs instead of the press. Once all the brass is primed and you know what load you want its time to measure the powder and use a funnel to insert it into the casing. This is where i spend most of my time becuase i get anal about getting all my loads exact for best accuracy and this is the most dangerous part of reloading IMHO becuase to much powder or the wrong powder and your gun could blow up in your face. As long as you take your time and pay attention to what your doing while using common sence you will be fine. I have reloaded better than a 1000 rounds without ever have a FTF or overpresure. Once i have all my brass primed and powdered then i set the second die for loading the bullet. Once you have the die set its more repition through the press. Be sure to pay attention to the casing and length during this process. Its not hard to get a bullet cocked int the neck a little. I always check the length of all my reloads to be sure i wont have any feed problems. Its pretty straight forward but very repititios and gets boring after a while. For me i will buy bulk ammo for my range gun but might custom load some HD or PD rounds and do some testing for best acuracy. I use 3 diff manuals for reloading nosler, speer, and hornaday. I load on the high end of the chart but still stay within recomendations. Once you find a bullet/ powder combo that u and your gun likes the u can make 10 round test batches in + or minus tiny incriments of powder to fine tune and dial in your weapon.


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## Steve M1911A1

"Plus P" is beyond the maximum end of most charts. Such loads will be separately identified somehow, although not always with a "+P" designation.
How to tell for sure? Look at chamber-pressure figures. Look at velocities. Compare these figures with the "normal" listed loads. Stay away from extremes.
High-end loads should be individually weighed, because just a tiny bit of powder too much, and you may have a catastrophe on your hands. Low-end and medium-level pistol loads need only to be check-weighed: Use the scale to check the powder measure's setting during set-up, and then check the first, 10th, and last loads thrown during a loading session. (If you're extra-careful, you might want to check once each 20 loads, during a long session.)

Reloading for pistol practice is a very easy and forgiving process, because the loads you're making are "middle of the road" in power, pressure, and velocity. Once you have figured out (or copied) a load that gives you what you want, stick with it, don't change anything, and just plug away.


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## gmaske

Reloading is like baking a cake. As long as you stick to the recipe things will turn out. I use a few diffrent powders depending on what I'm after. I use a lot of Bullseye for plinking and practice rounds. I use Winchester 296 for full house magnum loads in my 357. I'm playing around with Accurarte No.5 for hot 45ACP loads. What you want to do is figure out what kind of load you are after and then look over all the data for the recipe that fits. I use Bullseye in all my lighter hand gun loads and it meters really well in automatic powder measures because it is a ball type powder. I try to use ball powders in all my loads because it works better in most auto measures. As you study the diffrent powders you will find that many of the pistol powders used were actually designed for shotguns. Very few if any true rifle powders will work in pistols. LEE, Lyman, and RCBS all make good stuff. I like Lee stuff as it is for the most part a better value for those of us with smaller pockets.
Get more than one manual. The Lee 2nd addition is an excellent buy and has TONS of information on all aspects of reloading.....and yes it pushes Lee stuff.
https://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LEE90277&prodTitle=Lee%20Modern%20Reloading%20Manual


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